I have a bad drivetrain promlem and I dont know how to fix it... So here is what happens: using the clutch in first the car shutters a little bit. If I try to launch the car the whole friggin car shakes. Your probably thinking its driver error, but that is the slightest of the problem considering I used to be able to launch just fine. The rest of the shifts are very harsh, and occasionaly, if i am flooring it the car will do a little thing where it's almost as if someone pressed the clutch pedal down then back up really fast. so it kinda jerks me back and forth, just once though. keep in mind this may happen long after my last shift. So I take it to the best place in west michigan, after a week with my car, he says: it's because it is an aluminum flywheel and the metals have different densities. The car has an RPS Stage 3 clutch, and a fidanza aluminum flywheel. I will admit, the problem did get worse after I replaced the clutch assembly and the flywheel, but the problem was deffinetly there before with just the stock clutch and flywheel. My mechanic said thats because the clutch was going out. I've never heard of other people haveing this problem with this flywheel... Any advice would be great because I officialy feel screwed.
Bad Drivetrain problem... I need help.
- Thread starter ry_supra
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Sight along the drive shaft to make sure all 3 universal joints are in a straightline with each other.
I've seen you mention this before IJ, are you talking about the u-joints situated all in the same line? In other words turned the same way, and the shaft sighted along a straight line from diff. to trans tail?IJ. said:Sight along the drive shaft to make sure all 3 universal joints are in a straightline with each other.
AJ: Correct!
The rear section of the DS is actually 2 pieces bonded together with a rubber sleeve inside, over time this bond can fail then the inner twists inside the outer and you get out of phase Uni's and Harshness/Vibration/Shuddering.
The rear section of the DS is actually 2 pieces bonded together with a rubber sleeve inside, over time this bond can fail then the inner twists inside the outer and you get out of phase Uni's and Harshness/Vibration/Shuddering.
Thanks IJ. I don't have the problem, I just wanted to know so I can make sure mine are right after my last rebuild. I installed a new center bearing then and I don't think I even paid any attention if the uni's were in sync.IJ. said:AJ: Correct!
The rear section of the DS is actually 2 pieces bonded together with a rubber sleeve inside, over time this bond can fail then the inner twists inside the outer and you get out of phase Uni's and Harshness/Vibration/Shuddering.
If the drive shaft is cocked a little, What's the best way to get 'er lined up again? Pry bar after loosing the trans. support/mount bolts?
I just undo the carrier bolts push it into line and do em back up.
It doesn't really make a difference look at how out of line a live axle car gets.
It doesn't really make a difference look at how out of line a live axle car gets.
alright thanks i'll have a look at that, but I was wondering, if the shifter moves shakes a lot with the shuddering, could that still be attributed to something so far back in the drivetrain?
I checked under the car and the U joints are all in line. I jacked the back of the car up to try and see where the problem is coming from, and I am almost positive the shudder starts from the front of the transmission. The sound of the shudder is definatly comeing from there. but I dont see how it could be from there considering it did it before I reaplaced the clutch and flywheel, and it is still doing it after. Also, I was wondering if the driveshaft should be able to move up and down a little bit at the middle U joint.
There will be up/down movement at the centre bearing as it's rubber mounted.
With the car jacked up on stands in neutral and e-brake off grab the Slip yoke and see if you can feel any movement.
Also go through each Uni and try the same.
With the car jacked up on stands in neutral and e-brake off grab the Slip yoke and see if you can feel any movement.
Also go through each Uni and try the same.
Did you notice any oil from the top of the motor when you pulled the tranny? I caught my VC's leaking down into the bellhousing one time(dirty little oil leaking buggers) and it might be contamation on your clutch disk, flywheel, pressure plate, causing the chatter. Was the clutch a new one? Did you have any play in the pilot bearing?
There is no play at any of the Uni joints, just an 1/8 inch between tranny and front of the driveshaft, and 1/4 inch of play at the diff.
I dont remember there being any oil from the motor. the clutch was new, and there was no play in the pilot bearing.
I dont remember there being any oil from the motor. the clutch was new, and there was no play in the pilot bearing.
Have you checked your tranny bolts? Stupid question, fluid in the tranny? It seems to me if you have checked the uni's, the drive shaft, the center bearing, and the yoke at the rearend for play, it's pointing back to the clutch. If you get chatter when you take off, most times is contamination of the disk or pressure plate problem. I know you said the clutch was new, I had new PP go bad with very little miles on a SB chevy I had and it did the same thing you described in your first post, like something kicking back at you. After I pulled it, I found one of the springs had wedged into the pressure plate. Just a sugesstion. I can't think of anything else, sorry...ry_supra said:There is no play at any of the Uni joints, just an 1/8 inch between tranny and front of the driveshaft, and 1/4 inch of play at the diff.
I dont remember there being any oil from the motor. the clutch was new, and there was no play in the pilot bearing.
the tranny bolts are fine, i changed the tranny fluid about 2 monthes ago. but i guess if i cant find anything else i just might have to tear the stupid thing appart again.
If i jack the rear end up, and pull the ebrake and put it in neutral, i can turn the driveshaft 1/4 inch. if i do the opposite and put it in first with the ebrake off, it moves 1/8 inch. with both off i cant find any measureable play in the unis.
If i jack the rear end up, and pull the ebrake and put it in neutral, i can turn the driveshaft 1/4 inch. if i do the opposite and put it in first with the ebrake off, it moves 1/8 inch. with both off i cant find any measureable play in the unis.
I dont know if it was reign or another member but my car is not a 5 speed but I have had issues with what you are talking about.
I replaced my carrier bearing and the problem worsened. My ujoint closest to the diff is going bad. You can only feel it with the driveshaft off of the car. It has an odd feel... But pulling off from a complete stop you can feel a chug like the trans is shaking.
V
I replaced my carrier bearing and the problem worsened. My ujoint closest to the diff is going bad. You can only feel it with the driveshaft off of the car. It has an odd feel... But pulling off from a complete stop you can feel a chug like the trans is shaking.
V
...IJ. said:There will be up/down movement at the centre bearing as it's rubber mounted.
With the car jacked up on stands in neutral and e-brake off grab the Slip yoke and see if you can feel any movement.
Also go through each Uni and try the same.
IJ. said:
:icon_bigg :icon_bigg
Well I guess thats close to what I was told except it was that my carrier bearing was shot to hell.
V
I did that too and there was no play... sorry i guess i didnt really make that clearIJ. said:
so the shake seemed like it was coming from the trans? maybe i will be able to feel something if i take the stupid thing off.vdragonmpc said:I dont know if it was reign or another member but my car is not a 5 speed but I have had issues with what you are talking about.
I replaced my carrier bearing and the problem worsened. My ujoint closest to the diff is going bad. You can only feel it with the driveshaft off of the car. It has an odd feel... But pulling off from a complete stop you can feel a chug like the trans is shaking.
V