Backfiring , idling and starting issues - Please Help

[bobiseverywhere]

Well as most of you know i just recently installed my 1J. I am not the most proficient person and honestly i still have allot to learn so please don't assume i know what to do. Yes I am Dumb :3d_frown:

I have had a few issues or bugs so far to figure out.

I have replaced the O2 Sensor on the car. This did improve the situation. The Exhaust does not smell like i just dumped gas on the floor.

Before i changed the O2 Sensor. The Check engine light came on. Also my car would not idle below 2K RPM. I installed my gauge to see what vacuum i am getting. -0.5 Bar, i think thats what it should be right? I tried checking for codes and i get nothing? I Tried reseting the ECU and still the light is on and nothing.

I tried disconnecting the TPS and i was able to get the engine to idle at 1K - 1200 RPM, once i finally got it to start.


On the other hand...

It still is hard to get the engine started from cold. Takes quite a few tries. I am not to sure why? Does the 1J not have a cold start inj? It's not exactly super cold out 5'C aprox 40'F

I fiddled with the TPS and got the idle lower. Now with it connected i can start the car and it will idle at 1100RPM. I am still getting back firing when i rev the engine Over 3K or if i open the throttle to much, then it will back fire sooner. It does this when i am on the throttle not when i let off

I have been told that it is probably Carbon build up on the Valves but how can i get rid of it with out opening up the engine. Won't i destroy the turbos if i try to drive the car, with this problem??

Here is a link to a small video. The sound is a bit off. But if i hold the throttle steady at aprox 2K You can here the Waste Gates or something on the turbos opening and closing again. Almost in a rythum. Is this Normal? It's like the turbos are loading up, and then discharging, just from holding the throttle?

http://www.bobiseverywhere.com/images/supramania/1jzbuild/dec18/MOV02742.MPG

The vid is not that great and the sound even worse i will try taking another vid and a better quality if needed.

This is the First 1J i have ever seen in person so i don't know much of what to expect. Plus this is my First Engine swap. I Really have no clue. Getting rid of carbon and all that stuff

 

[mattjk]

open up the ecu and cap for leaky caps. have you cleaned all the electric connections like I recommended?

btw, it's not carbon, and please don't use seafoam or some crap like that.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

i have almost gone over all the electrical connections. Still a long way to go though.

I will open up the ECU first thing tomorrow then. I hope its not the ECU

I have no idea what seafoam is but from your plead not to use it, i guess thats a good thing lol

 

[mattjk]

also, my cam sensor plugs were filled with oil. check yours out. I had to clean mine out with brake clean.

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

How does the coil packs connectors look? are they in properly> No corrosion etc?
Also, check the CPS ( Cam position sensors) and their connections. Make sure the wires or connectors are not frayed and making good contact. Did you do a timing belt change? If so, make sure that the timing was set correctly. Backfiring could be related to that.
Let the car idle for some time, this will warm up the engine and free any sticky parts inside the engine. I had a bit of hesitation on mine, and after driving for a few miles..car became very smooth and responsive.

 

[RacerXJ220]

Did you replace the timing belt? Inspect the tensioner?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

i am going to check these things today.

No i have not done the timing belt yet. I did inspect the one that was on the car. It was not in bad shape or anything. I will still be changing it though. When i "0" the Crank Everything lined up like it should have

The Tensioner seemed to be ok

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Well i found one problem.

I could swear i went over the whole board before i put it in Guess i missed it.

This is about the best picture i could come up with.

I will still look at the other things though. Trying to get the connectors off for the CPS lol its tough with all the other stuff around the intake mani

 

[mattjk]

Glad I could help

Don't forget about me for ROTM next year lol

I'd recommend changing all the caps while you're in there... if you can't. take it to a TV repair shop, they can do it for you.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

they can!!! i did not know that that is awesome i was thinking i am going to need another ECU.

do you have an idea of what the cost will be?

 

[HIDPLANET]

Shouldnt be much. Parts are cheap and labor should be fairly low because it will be a fast job. They might charge you 30-40.

Im having the same issues with my ECU, I just havent had time to pull it and inspect it yet. Hopefully will do it this weekend. Thanks to Mattjk for providing very useful info on this matter.

 

[RacerXJ220]

Okay, wow.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

yes i have no idea what i would do with out Suprahero, Mattjk and of course BigAaron. They have all given me so much help.

 

[RacerXJ220]

Suprahero helped you? hehehe...

 

[mattjk]

they can!!! i did not know that that is awesome i was thinking i am going to need another ECU.

do you have an idea of what the cost will be?

most tv repair shops charge a flat rate of $80us, that is including any parts... so it's well worth it. Even if you did find a nice used ECU, you're still dealing with 15yo caps. At first they might not take the job because there is no way for them to test the ecu, just tell them to replace all the caps anyhow, especially the injector drivers which are the green blocks.

Or send it to me, I'll change them out for free.

 

[RacerXJ220]

matt, that's awesome.

imaginary + 5 to you.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

is it a good idea to have them resolder the whole board plus replace the Caps

 

[mattjk]

nononono. just the caps.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

ok

 

[mk3forme]

I dont know anything about electronic boards. So with that said I dont see whats wrong with pic you posted.