Auto Transmission Won't Shift At WOT in 2nd with ECT

92TealSupra

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Alright well I have an issue. The guy I bought the car from said the car had low transmission fluid. He was correct the transmission slipped every time at 4000 Rpms.

I put more in and it was fine, so I thought. Now when I go WOT off the line, With the ECT button pushed in, my car hits the rev limiter. I have to let off the gas slightly to let it shift.

I do not know much about the automatic transmissions, on these cars. When I am on the highway it goes into every other gear perfect without the rev limiter. So I wonder if something is wrong with the transition between first and second.

The car does have 139,954 miles on it. I will tell you I have yet to drive a faster stock Supra so far. This thing just goes, even through 110 it will drive perfectly, I am just concerned about the slipping. The fluid I added did help the main problem.

I am curious to see if the ECT button is interfering with something, someone also suggest the TPS, but considering this doesn't happen any other time in any other gears, I doubt that.

I will check to see if without ECT from off the line if it does that, but I don't think it did, it would shift just before 5500 Rpm's. So I wonder if ECT may be screwing somethign up.

Thanks for your input guys, so far I couldn't be happier with the purchase. of the car.
 

Nick M

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Unplug the range selector on the trans and drive it.

Do you have stock size tires? Upshift is based on output sensor speed and TPS voltage. The ECT button increases the speed at which upshift occurs. Nothing more.
 

92TealSupra

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Nick M;1309570 said:
Unplug the range selector on the trans and drive it.

Do you have stock size tires? Upshift is based on output sensor speed and TPS voltage. The ECT button increases the speed at which upshift occurs. Nothing more.


Update: Tested 3 minutes ago.

Even if you DON'T ECT the transition between first to second still rev limits.

Also sometimes when i get in my car, the car is in " park " I go to start and nothing, if I slightly wiggle the shifter not even .5 of a mm it will then start when I try to turn the key. I have a 2nd range selector on from my '89, would anyone advise I should put this in, and would it being a '89 chnage anything?

Thanks for the input, cars still runs great though.

Tires I believe are 235 with stock rims. So I wouldn't think that could be the issue.
 

Nick M

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92TealSupra;1309575 said:
Update: Tested 3 minutes ago.

Even if you DON'T ECT the transition between first to second still rev limits.

What?

Now when I go WOT off the line, With the ECT button pushed in, my car hits the rev limiter. I have to let off the gas slightly to let it shift.

So the ECT button has nothing to do with your symptom? Unlike the opening post? Glad you checked. What about with the range selector unplugged.

Also sometimes when i get in my car, the car is in " park " I go to start and nothing, if I slightly wiggle the shifter not even .5 of a mm it will then start when I try to turn the key.

Two seperate issues. Maybe. Get that fixed. That is the neutral start in the range selector, and not a part of your issue.

Just to be sure, if you put your foot to the floor, upshift does not occur until 6250 RPM, but only between first and second?


Tires I believe are 235 with stock rims. So I wouldn't think that could be the issue.

You do know that says nothing about the diameter of the tire.
 
Last edited:

Moy

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I doubt it's the mileage on the trans. Just the way that the previous owner(s) drove the car. My trans has 234,xxx miles on it and still transitions without bouncing off the rev limiter
 

92TealSupra

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jdub;1309598 said:
Have you checked for tranny codes?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=14

Take a look at this flow chart:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=25

A no start can be caused by either the linkage or the neutral start switch:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=19

I will check codes later, and will unplug the range selector to see if anything changes. Like I aid I have one off my '89 that had no issues, and this one seems like it may. The neutral switch though is on the whole selector assembly?

Thank you.
 

jdub

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92TealSupra;1309881 said:
The neutral switch though is on the whole selector assembly?

It's on the passenger side of the tranny...the linkage attaches to the selector stud protruding through it.

It would be helpful if you took a look at the auto tranny section of the TSRM ;)
 

92TealSupra

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jdub;1309887 said:
It's on the passenger side of the tranny...the linkage attaches to the selector stud protruding through it.

It would be helpful if you took a look at the auto tranny section of the TSRM ;)

(; I will have to do so. I have had these out, and I just through away a automatic transmission with the '89 ( good idea :[ ) I have take the linkage off that is all easy, but I was just wondering that's all. Anyhow, I am goign to look into it tonight. When this is fixed the car should run very well.
 

92TealSupra

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gtsfirefighter;1310618 said:
Would the line pressure cable being out of adjustment have anything to do with this?

I readjusted mine after I did the HG and it now shifts so much better. It was shifting very harshly and at high rpms before.

Well see I am not experiencing harsh problems just one gear to the other not shifting and it is Only from 1st to 2nd.
 

Nick M

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gtsfirefighter;1310618 said:
Would the line pressure cable being out of adjustment have anything to do with this?

No. That only increases line pressure under acceleration for quicker shifting.

I readjusted mine after I did the HG and it now shifts so much better. It was shifting very harshly and at high rpms before.

And this is why you don't do the cable mod on the A340 mod thread on SF.
 

gtsfirefighter

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Nick M;1310629 said:
And this is why you don't do the cable mod on the A340 mod thread on SF.

I'm feeling stupid today, clarify. Did I do something wrong or are they doing it wrong in that thread?

For clarification on my side, I just adjusted the two nuts up by the intake. The car still has a firm shift, like I like, but it no longer causes whiplash when it does. It also seems to shift at normal intervals, normal to me that is. I keep the ECT in Power mode as I don't like the shifting intervals in normal.
 

92TealSupra

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Mk3runner;1310672 said:
Change fluid yet? Maybe test shift solenoid.

I will be doing that tomorrow.

I am going to run codes. And I plan on doing a 5-speed swap, All I need is the pedals ( I just sold ) and the r154 itself ( which I sold! )

But if I wouldn't have sold those two I wouldn't even have a Supra.
 

jdub

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Changing the ATF involves more than just a drain & fill ;)

Still haven't checked the tranny codes, huh?...not a lot to be said until you do.
 

92TealSupra

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jdub;1310906 said:
Changing the ATF involves more than just a drain & fill ;)

Still haven't checked the tranny codes, huh?...not a lot to be said until you do.

Yeah I know :)

Right now I am packaging all the items I sold, plus I have been busy. So the first thing I do is package the items, because I like getting them out fast. I hate waiting for stuff just as much as the next guy.
 

Nick M

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gtsfirefighter;1310670 said:
Did I do something wrong or are they doing it wrong in that thread?

The faster the engine speed, the more pressure you want on a shift. And conversely, lower speed doesn't need a quicker firmer shift. So lower pressure is used(along with those accumalators) to soften the shift. Which is why Toyota put that cable on the throttle on an electronicaly controlled transmission. It automatically adjusts the amount of pressure for you by being hooked up.

Shimming those accumalators will limit gear "overlap" that is built into the trans to hide shift shock. They force slipping. It is probably the best at home mod for the A340. Along with an external trans cooler.
 

92TealSupra

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The problem has no really continued now. I don't really go WOT much anymore anyhow. It's not like I do it all the time, I was just concerned for when I do it.
I already decided to go with a 2jz-gte swap and i just bought a r154, and I have the drive shaft, rear end, master cylinder, and so on.

When I do this swap I am going to write down the pins and how I swapped it into the car. I have looked for good 2jz-gte into MKIII threads and the wiring directions are horrible.

Also, this will be a MKIII Auto Turbo Supra with a 5-speed swap and 2jz-gte swap. The motor will most likely be a Aristo Auto, but I can figure out the pins and wiring patterns to wire it to make it a 5-speed with no issues.

Thanks, for all the help guys, I will be parting out my perfectly running 7m-gte soon, the wiring harness, and bascially anything 7M in the engine bay.