Auto engagement question...

[Idealsupra]

I have a 87 NA auto that ive been fixing up.... it runs fine....however the tranny doesnt seem to work in the DRIVE gear.... i can put it in L and 2 and it seems to work okay...however if i put it in drive and take my foot off the brake it BARELY moves forward....and when i put the pedal to the floor its VERY slow to accerlate....

the fluid is full and in good shape....

i removed the kickdown cable for the time being because its broken and not allowing WOT (was only allowing like 1/4 throttle with the pedal to the floor because it was stuck)...but this shouldnt hinder the DRIVE gear from acclerating properly should it?

any help would be appreciated....this isnt really a NA or turbo question more like an auto question...

its late and ive been doing car things all day so my brain is a little fried right now...im sure its something stupid.

 

[jdub]

The throttle cable (kick down) controls line pressure in an auto. That could very well be your problem since you're doing fine in 1st & 2nd. Quick question...if you manually shift 1st, 2nd, Drive...does it respond normally?

 

[Idealsupra]

The throttle cable (kick down) controls line pressure in an auto. That could very well be your problem since you're doing fine in 1st & 2nd. Quick question...if you manually shift 1st, 2nd, Drive...does it respond normally?

no....its like in drive its starting at a higher gear...i was thinking 1st solenoid and have had a few people say the same thing.....

pretty much it accelerates normally when i have it in L and i can shift to 2 and its all fine...then i shift to drive and it dies down and acceleration is no where to be found....it barely can reach 2k rpm.

i was under the impression the kickdown cable is to control downshifting during acceleration? so it shouldnt be a problem for upshifting...or for that matter a 1st gear with it in drive??

 

[jdub]

no....its like in drive its starting at a higher gear...i was thinking 1st solenoid and have had a few people say the same thing.....

pretty much it accelerates normally when i have it in L and i can shift to 2 and its all fine...then i shift to drive and it dies down and acceleration is no where to be found....it barely can reach 2k rpm.

i was under the impression the kickdown cable is to control downshifting during acceleration? so it shouldnt be a problem for upshifting...or for that matter a 1st gear with it in drive??

It controls line pressure and that can affect both up & down shift. But after reading above, I'm more inclined to agree that the #1 solenoid is the culprit...or you have an obstruction in the valve body at the #1 solenoid.

 

[toml]

The TSRM gives a procedure for checking the transmission codes which will tell you if you have a bung #1 or #2 solenoid.

 

[jdub]

The TSRM gives a procedure for checking the transmission codes which will tell you if you have a bung #1 or #2 solenoid.

You are correct...I was assuming he already did this. The auto ECU will tell you if there is an electronics/sensor fault.

I did a little brush-up reading...you'll need to replace the throttle cable. The TRSM says it can cause clutch/brake slippage due to inadequate line pressure.

Thinking back on when I installed mine, the #2 speed sensor located on the tranny, drivers side just forward of the support bracket was incompatable with an '89 auto ECU...it caused a problem similar to what your having. Another thing to consider (besides the #1 solenoid) is the lock-up solenoid. Both of these should throw a code.

 

[Idealsupra]

well that would onyl show up if its electonics...or wiring.... and wouldnt the OD off light blink if there was a problem? the TSRM says that i believe....

 

[jdub]

Bad #1 or #2 solenoid or a bad #1 or #2 speed sensor will throw a code and the OD light should blink; the lock-up solenoid (code 64) will not make the OD light blink and can only be read if you jumper the diag block.

 

[Idealsupra]

Bad #1 or #2 solenoid or a bad #1 or #2 speed sensor will throw a code and the OD light should blink; the lock-up solenoid (code 64) will not make the OD light blink and can only be read if you jumper the diag block.

yeah i read that too..thanks man....ill prob check codes just to be sure but im thinking its mechanical....

and damn i didnt know yu were in phoenix...i was just out there...my mom just moved out there and i had to drive out the trailer with all her shit all the way from FL lol....

ill let you know whenver im coming back to visit her ..... we can chill lol

 

[jdub]

yeah i read that too..thanks man....ill prob check codes just to be sure but im thinking its mechanical....

and damn i didnt know yu were in phoenix...i was just out there...my mom just moved out there and i had to drive out the trailer with all her shit all the way from FL lol....

ill let you know whenver im coming back to visit her ..... we can chill lol

Damn...that's a road trip alright. I moved from Tampa to Phoenix myself, but I had the military pack all my crap Let me know when you're out this way...hopefully it won't be so damn hot!

Get that cable fixed 1st and go from there...I'm thinking it's a sticky solenoid, but if the cable ups the line pressure to make it work, it's all good.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Hey, just suggesting something simple. I didn't see you mention it but is the shift linkage underneath tightened?

 

[garrettrowe]

You are feeling 4th gear. (slim chance of third) That happens when both shift solenoids have no power. From as standstill the #1 shift solenoid should be energized.
Either:
Your ECT ecu is unplugged
#1 solenoid shot (and possibly #2)
#1 solenoid wiring shot (and possibly #2 wiring)
#1 and #2 solenoids are cross wired (how? who knows - slim chance)

Put a test light on SL1 on the ECT ECU to get going with troubleshooting. It should light when grounded, car in drive, ignition on.

 

[Idealsupra]

You are feeling 4th gear. (slim chance of third) That happens when both shift solenoids have no power. From as standstill the #1 shift solenoid should be energized.
Either:
Your ECT ecu is unplugged
#1 solenoid shot (and possibly #2)
#1 solenoid wiring shot (and possibly #2 wiring)
#1 and #2 solenoids are cross wired (how? who knows - slim chance)

Put a test light on SL1 on the ECT ECU to get going with troubleshooting. It should light when grounded, car in drive, ignition on.

hey garrett i was hoping you would respond lol...

quick question....are the 91 ECT ECUs the same as the 87s? i changed the one in the car out to the one out of my 91 because the 87 one was looking a little beat... (and the 91 shifted perfectly etc...) but if they are different could this be causing the problem?

im HOPING and was ALSO thinking the ecu could be causing the problem but the only way it could is if they arent compatible by years....

im going to get to the bottom of it tomorrow but any more electrical ideas and tests etc would be helpful...especially since cygnus is down right now

 

[Idealsupra]

bump for an answer to the ect ecu question

 

[Nick M]

bump for an answer to the ect ecu question

The TCCS engine control computer is different. It feeds info to the trans ECU.

The only way to determine if it will work is simply plug it in. If the plugs are the same.

 

[jdub]

Why don't you just plug the '87 ECT up and give it a shot?

 

[Idealsupra]

Why don't you just plug the '87 ECT up and give it a shot?

i think i tossed it

 

[Slow66]

i think i tossed it

I *might* have one laying around.....ill check tonight....

 

[iwannadie]

ok i have had a similar problem lately. when the car is first started it acts like the above problem. no power and stays right at 2k rmps with WOT. after a few minutes of driving(or sitting at idle) the problem goes away and its shifts normal. its like its stuck in high gear and wont drop down to me....

 

[toml]

Yep that's what mine does... seems like it shifts normally once it 'warms up'...