ATI Damper Installed

[Insidious Surmiser]

damn.. my car shakes under idle, lol.. but then again i'm on my "get me around while i'm at college 7m-gte" once i get out of school in about a year i'll be buying a fresh block from toyota:evil2: and start from there

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Looks great jdub.
I may have to look into one of these.

 

[figgie]

It's actually torsional harmonic vibration. It's produced when the cylinders fire and the power gets transmitted through the crankshaft, which then takes the brunt of this impact. This causes a twisting motion, the resistance of the crank shaft snaps back to produce vibration. Since there a multiple cylinders doing this, it sets up a harmonic frequency which puts stress on the engine. The better a motor is balanced, the less vibration is produced...that's why you see experienced builders go to the effort to balance and blueprint a motor.

Harmonic vibration causes metal fatigue...specifically in the crank shaft, rods, and the associated bearings. It is not something that will kill your motor right now...the 7M is a beefy engine concerning these parts. It will cause fatigue over time, especially on a high HP motor. This will contribute to 2 failures in a 7M motor...breaking a rod and/or stressing the main/rod bearings.

thought i would clear up something

you could have a motor that is zero balanced, the vibration will still occur as it has nothing to do with the crank, rods, pistons WEIGHT etc. It has to do with three specific things

1. Flywheel weight
2. Length of the crankshaft
3. How far away is the cylinder #1 away from the crank shaft.

The reason is the further away #1 is from the FW the MORE torsional vibration during the #1 power cycle.

 

[supra90turbo]

They don't include a crank bolt for any damper they sell...turning the stock one down took 10 minutes max.

Also, the instructions specifically say to heat aluminum hub dampers and to not alter the press fit of the hub in any way. I guess you can hone the hub out contrary to what ATI says...me, I'm going to follow the spec

Yeah, I guess it's not a big deal at all.
I wouldn't hone out the hub on the pulley at all.... I'm just curious as to how well it'll come off when the time comes....

Thanks for the info, though, man... definitely good to back up what you say with what the manufacturer suggests... :bigthumb:

Looks like you need a new accordian hose to match all the nice underhood goodies... cooleeze anyone?

 

[NashMan]

Yeah, I guess it's not a big deal at all.
I wouldn't hone out the hub on the pulley at all.... I'm just curious as to how well it'll come off when the time comes....

Thanks for the info, though, man... definitely good to back up what you say with what the manufacturer suggests... :bigthumb:

Looks like you need a new accordian hose to match all the nice underhood goodies... cooleeze anyone?

that's what a puller is for

 

[starscream5000]

Yeah, I guess it's not a big deal at all.
I wouldn't hone out the hub on the pulley at all.... I'm just curious as to how well it'll come off when the time comes....

Thanks for the info, though, man... definitely good to back up what you say with what the manufacturer suggests... :bigthumb:

Looks like you need a new accordian hose to match all the nice underhood goodies... cooleeze anyone?

When you say you wouln't hone out the hub you're talking about the crank bolt right? If so, you will have to do it if you get the ATI dampener.

 

[jdub]

What ATI doesn't want you to do is to hone out the center hole (i.e. increase its diameter) of the damper hub where it fits over the crank shaft. It is spec'ed as a tight press fit. You MUST turn down the stock crank bolt flange to get it to fit inside the center hole to secure the damper to the crank.

 

[starscream5000]

It would be a little more convenient if ATI supplied a crank bolt that would fit without modification. Hell, as much as the thing cost you would have thought that's what they would do...:icon_neut

 

[jdub]

Seriously...it's really no big deal. Like I said, it took me 10 minutes to turn the bolt down.

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

jdub, seriously, lol, what did you do to get your engine bay sooooo clean... and keep it that way? i'mbaffled

 

[jdub]

I finished my rebuild Aug 05. As part of that, I ceramic coated almost every external part...the blue IC pipes and intake manifold are a 1400 deg ceramic; the rest (including all brackets) is a 2000 deg chrome. The beauty about the ceramic is it wipes clean with a cloth/409 and doesn't tarnish like a polish job can.

When I work on the motor, I take a few minutes to wipe it down and use compressed air to blow the dust out of the bay. Keeps it looking good and even keeps your hands clean when working on it

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

nice... kinda wondering about the alternator and various pumps... SOOO perty :love: lol

 

[oscolivar1]

i think i remember john telling me thats an mr2 alternator......more ampage i think??
nice engine jdub... hopefully mine will look like that one day .....
all i have to do it come up with that 500+ for all my cermic chromed parts...:cry:

oh yea good info ati dampner.... i might have to look into that...

 

[jdub]

You are correct Oliver...100 amp MR2 alternator (1991 2.0L with powersteering). That year MR2 used an electric pump to run the powersteering, hence the higher amps. You have to change your pulley from the stock Supra alternator to the MR2 one...it's a tight fit, but bolts right up and the electrical connectors are identical.

Don't worry Your motor is going to look (and run) great!

 

[starscream5000]

You wouldn't know of anyone needing to get rid of a good working 100 amp alt like that one do you? Iirc, you do ceramic coatings for ppl right? If so, I may hit you up later on down the road when my rebuild gets rolling.

 

[jdub]

Sorry, but I don't. I got mine at Checkers Auto Parts...lifetime warranty.

And yes, I do ceramic coatings. Sold a lot of ceramic coated parts on eBay for a while...been really busy for the last 6 months and haven't had the time. I have a bunch of parts done sitting in the store room

 

[Wills7MGTE]

good part, ima get one when i pull the head and change the pulleys, cam gears, and belts while it's off. ty for the info boys.










shaeff edited: c'mon will, you know not to type in all caps! : sigh :

 

[starscream5000]

Jdub you got PM!

 

[figgie]

It would be a little more convenient if ATI supplied a crank bolt that would fit without modification. Hell, as much as the thing cost you would have thought that's what they would do...:icon_neut

<-- looks at Toyota OEM Damped pulley......

yeah right!

 

[oscolivar1]

You wouldn't know of anyone needing to get rid of a good working 100 amp alt like that one do you? Iirc, you do ceramic coatings for ppl right? If so, I may hit you up later on down the road when my rebuild gets rolling.

you wont regret getting your parts coated from john...