ATI Damper Installed

[jdub]

Well...got my ATI damper in today. Didn't really have the time right now, but my previous timing belt jumped a tooth so I installed a Greddy timing belt and put the ATI damper on while I had everything apart.

Couple notes on the install: In the first pic you will see the differences in the crank bolts. The ATI requires a smaller diameter flange than stock...I used a metal lathe to turn it down to the proper diameter. The hole for the damper is 1.810"...I turned the bolt down to 1.804" to give it a little clearance. It fit perfect!

The 2nd pic shows the ATI installed without the A/C pulley. Getting everything off was no problem, but I had to remove the radiator to get and impact gun on the bolt. I used a strap wrench to hold the old damper in place...it came right off.

The ATI damper is a very tight spec to the crank shaft...the instructions suggested heating the damper in boiling water, which I did. I applied anti-seize to the shaft and inside the ATI and got it started straight on the shaft. Used a rubber mallet to tap it into place...this thing was a tight fit!

The ATI fit perfect...no rubbing at all on the lower timing cover. The 3rd pic shows the A/C pulley bolted on. The 12 point bolts are torqued to 30 ft/lbs per ATI spec.

There is one thing that surprised me about the ATI...there was no timing index mark! I got a stock damper, lined the crank key grooves up with a piece of rectangular metal stock (it was exactly the width of the crank key), and marked the ATI with a triangular file. I set the timing at zero with a stock damper 1st, then installed the ATI...the marks matched exactly to the zero index on the timing cover.

I have it almost done...have to hook the radiator hoses up and check the CPS for proper alignment. Tomorrow it will run! :evil2:

 

[NashMan]

i never knew they made after maket damper or is this mad sintest in action or is it made for 2j

 

[C.44]

Kind of wondering, but what are the exact expected benefits of this thing over the stocker ?

 

[shaeff]

how about the main benefit of:

your stocker is almost 20yrs old if not more, and chances are it doesn't dampen much or at all...

hell, at this point, a new stocker could be considered an "upgrade".

but this ATI one is on my list!

-shaeff

 

[jdub]

Nash - ATI makes it for the 7M, ATI Part #918525. Other than having to turn the crank bolt down, it's a direct fit and is basically the same belt diameter as stock (no underdrive). The stock damper weighs 11 lbs...the ATI weighs 6.5 lbs.


Shaeff - Dead on man! I've got a lot of $$$ invested in this motor, why let something like the damper create a harmonic vibration in an otherwise balanced motor. It is lighter than the stocker, but not enough to get real HP gains...it's primary function is "insurance" for the life of the engine.

 

[C.44]

Damnit... i'll have some reading up to do But how does it work ? How does it dampen ? Sorry for coming off like a dumbfuck... i know my way around these cars but this is new for me

 

[jdub]

Toyota designed the 7M with a harmonic damper...it's function it to negate harmonic vibration produced by the motor. This varies with rpm, but any harmonic vibration is bad for the engine over time. The stock damper uses rubber inside to accomplish this...with age, the rubber deteriorates and loses it's ability to dampen.

The ATI functions the same way and uses rubber inside as well. The biggest difference is it is machined to a much closer tolerance and it is made out of aluminum vs steel. That is what makes it so much lighter than stock. Plus, you can easily remove the outside AC pulley...for the strip, no more belt drag and you knock off another pound of weight.

 

[C.44]

So much for the reading up Thanks for the info, i might aswell look into these then... How much do they run approx. ?

Thank you very much jdub

 

[jdub]

That was the Cliffs Notes version There's a lot more detailed info on the web if you are interested. And you're welcome :icon_bigg

It's $468 shipped from ATI. IMO, it's worth every penny...and I'll bet the price is competitive with buying a new stock damper from Toyota. Knowing how the dealer prices their parts :3d_frown:

 

[isnms]

Very Nice

 

[supra90turbo]

I don't know if I like the idea of having to install the pulley hot, due to the fact that removal will be extremely difficult.
They should include a "correct" crank bolt in the kit also, I feel.

Other than that, I'm definitely still buying one.

 

[antman]

the stock pully is over $300.00 in my neck.

 

[jdub]

I don't know if I like the idea of having to install the pulley hot, due to the fact that removal will be extremely difficult.
They should include a "correct" crank bolt in the kit also, I feel.

Other than that, I'm definitely still buying one.

They don't include a crank bolt for any damper they sell...turning the stock one down took 10 minutes max.

Also, the instructions specifically say to heat aluminum hub dampers and to not alter the press fit of the hub in any way. I guess you can hone the hub out contrary to what ATI says...me, I'm going to follow the spec

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

damn you for having a clean motor ... i'm just messing, but i had to comment on that... my motor is absolutely COVERED in sludge.. next motor will, hopefully look similar to yours

and concidering i'm a noob, and havn't done a full engine re-build, thus, havn't done the research yet, but what would be the consiquences of excessive vibration?

 

[jdub]

It's actually torsional harmonic vibration. It's produced when the cylinders fire and the power gets transmitted through the crankshaft, which then takes the brunt of this impact. This causes a twisting motion, the resistance of the crank shaft snaps back to produce vibration. Since there a multiple cylinders doing this, it sets up a harmonic frequency which puts stress on the engine. The better a motor is balanced, the less vibration is produced...that's why you see experienced builders go to the effort to balance and blueprint a motor.

Harmonic vibration causes metal fatigue...specifically in the crank shaft, rods, and the associated bearings. It is not something that will kill your motor right now...the 7M is a beefy engine concerning these parts. It will cause fatigue over time, especially on a high HP motor. This will contribute to 2 failures in a 7M motor...breaking a rod and/or stressing the main/rod bearings.

 

[C.44]

Hmm more info Good reading, very understandable Sorry for the threadjack but this is great info

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

Hmm more info Good reading, very understandable Sorry for the threadjack but this is great info

:bigthumb: thanks for the info

 

[jdub]

You guys are welcome...glad to be of help

Got it all back together and took her for a test run. Timing issue solved! Any it might just be me, but the motor sounds/feels smoother...you can barely tell it's running at idle.

I detailed the engine bay while I was at it...she's looking (& running) good!
Here's a pic :icon_bigg

 

[NashMan]

i all was though wheight whould be the best damper ? hummmmm

i wounder what whould be better new stock one or the ati ?

 

[suprarich]

Nice write up and nice engine bay shots