ATF to flush my engine...???

gaboonviper85

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My supra is old (obvious)...I've been reading about people adding ATF to their oil and running the car for a day or two then having favorable results... Is this really safe? Read that it helps restore seals and isn't as agressive as solvents...?

I'm about to do an oil change and would like some input....anybody with experience with such a thing please feedback. If so what percent of ATF to motoroil did you use and for how long?
 

CyFi6

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I have never done it personally but i have heard of people having good results with doing it, just adding about a quart soon before an oil change. Though if you do a google search guarantee you will find a lot of feedback on it. Take a look at this stuff

http://www.auto-rx.com/

I did a lot of reading on it a long time ago, and it seems to be THE stuff when it comes to engine cleaning. I used it on my supra about a year ago and i have had no ill effects, and it has MANY success stories. It is even mentioned on BobIsTheOilGuy.com
 

becauseican

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I sometimes do this when I start up any used engines, 2L 10/30 oil and 2L ATF, then let it run for 15-20 min till warmed up then drain. The ATF is a high detergant oil and is great for cleaning off the carbon.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Kerosene is more effective...do this:
- Make sure your battery is fully charged
- Remove the spark plugs
- Drain the oil and replace the filter with a Walmart SuperTech
- Replace drain plug and fill with kerosene
- Crank the engine (EFI fuse pulled) for about 5 min
- Let it sit for 10-15 min and drain the kerosene
- Replace filter with another SuperTech and use 5W-20 or 5W-30 SuperTech oil to fill.
- Crank engine again for a few min
- Replace spark plugs and EFI fuse...drive car for 100 miles or so.
- Change oil to a PAO or ester based synthetic (0W or 5W-30) and use a Wix filter

The "ATF has more detergents" is a bit of misconception...it does, but not in a significant amount to have a big impact. A PAO oil (GC, RP, Amsoil) is very good at cleaning out deposits by itself...and ester based oil (Red Line) is even better at it. Even a Grp III like Pennzoil Platinum (better choice) or Mobil 1 does an excellent job of cleaning deposits due to the additive packs.

Auto-RX mentioned above appears to do what is advertised. You do need to follow the instructions for it exactly to get the full benefit. Personally, I would not use it in conjunction with an expensive synthetic...you can, but it would be a waste of good oil IMO.
 

GrimJack

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TomFraser;1324775 said:
this and a seafoam worked wonders for my land rover 3.8 v8

everyone can call bullshit on both of these techniques but it was a very noticible difference
Noticeable how? Did you tear down the engine, note the condition, put it back together, then run these and tear it down again?
 

jdub

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TomFraser;1324775 said:
this and a seafoam worked wonders for my land rover 3.8 v8

everyone can call bullshit on both of these techniques but it was a very noticible difference


To be honest, Seafoam is basically snake oil...it is solvent. Kerosene will work better per above to flush the oil system. Pure water metered through a vac port will work better to clean the intake and valves. Both at far less cost. There are far better fuel additives containing Polyether Amine (PEA), like Gumout Regane that will actually clean the injectors. Seafoam simply does not stand up.
 

TomFraser

New Member
GrimJack;1324798 said:
Noticeable how? Did you tear down the engine, note the condition, put it back together, then run these and tear it down again?

noticeable as in the idle actually stayed still, and didn't bounce all around then stall

noticeable as in a LOT more power in the lower end of the tach, not much of a difference once it gets up there

I have no idea what the engine looks like inside, I got it with 200k from an owner that didn't do an oil change since 94k so It prolly wasn't pretty
 

gaboonviper85

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I already have the walmart supertech filter and 3quarts of penz plat trans fluid:-(. I don't have kero but I do have "zurnoil" safety cleaner...

This really scares me about doing this but I've heard such good doing it.
 

gaboonviper85

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Considering I'm na it's a bit more involved in removing sparkplugs so I'd like to be able to start the motor instead of cranking....

Jdug should I be ok running pure trans fluid at idle speeds? For how long should it idle if so?
 

gaboonviper85

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oh and one more thing...I already bought 6 quarts of gtx 5-30...I don't want to run royal purple as it's $9 a quart and my car burns a bit of oil and leaks oil from everywhere know to man! Also already have 3 super tech filters is it ok to run that instead of wix?
 

jdub

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The thing is, ATF is not going to do what you want...back in the day when this was 1st done, maybe. Now with modern oils, not so much.

The reason you want to pull the plugs is to prevent the rods from being under load and exerting any real force to the crank. To do what you want, kerosene is a much better idea...don't know about zurnoil.

SuperTech filters are made by Champion labs, same company that makes K&N and Mobil 1 filters. SuperTech uses a lower quality media, but it's a good filter. Wix or NAPA Gold (made by Wix) are the best IMO.
 

gaboonviper85

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In order for me to remove sparkplugs then I'd have to order gaskets for the manifolds...I didn't plan on going threw all that just to douche my motor...I won't perform the kero without doing the spark plugs as that is just common sense. But are you saying ATF is a complete waist of time...or are you saying it won't be a deep clean like kero?
 

jdub

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Why would you need to change manifold gaskets?

ATF would be a waste of time...a PAO or ester based oil will do the same thing over time. Be careful what you do though, if the seals are old & hard, those deposits may be all that is keeping them from leaking. Remove the deposits and you might get an oil leak.
 

gaboonviper85

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jdub;1324932 said:
Why would you need to change manifold gaskets?

ATF would be a waste of time...a PAO or ester based oil will do the same thing over time. Be careful what you do though, if the seals are old & hard, those deposits may be all that is keeping them from leaking. Remove the deposits and you might get an oil leak.

Already leak oil pretty bad...fuck it...guess I'll forget the engine douche...

It's hard getting spark plugs out without taking the y pipe off the intake on an n/a...that y pipe has gaskets between it.
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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With an old high-mileage NA motor that leaks oil like crazy, why even bother with a super clean?

Fix your leaks if you plan to keep the motor a while before using any advanced procedure to clean it.

My .02
 

gaboonviper85

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It's not really high miles...only 100,000...it just leaks from the rear main, probably cause I didn't do a fantastic job at installing the new one when I did the clutch a year ago. Either way I'm not gonna do it right now I suppose.