assembly lube?

[starscream5000]

It's best not to do machine work on the block until you are ready to put it all together...

 

[Jaguar_5]

What about to keep a block looking nice and shiny like the one you have in your avatar? That's one clean looking engine. You could eat off of that surface. Is it best just to use like a light coat WD-40 to keep the surfaces rust free during a long assembly process? BTW, how did you get all of your passages to look so clean. Your block is so clean it looks like a fresh cast.

I'm not an expert, but i just use wd40 when it feels like it's getting very dry (no oily film at all) or If it's going to be left alone for a while. My engine was hottanked, and before, but mainly after that I did plenty of scrubbing with lots of brake cleaner, and a set of engine brushes (summitracing has a set for $5). For the threads, chase em, M12x1.25 for the 2 most important (imo) mains and head, doesn't look quite as clean as a fresh cast in person, but thanks all the time and effort in cleaning, not only looks good, it's quite important this deep in the works

While starscream is right about machining, then building right away, it doesn't always work that way, i've been waiting forever to finish my build, i've had many unexpected problems and delays, many of which by the time it happens, it's out of my control.

There is no sign of any rust forming, despite the months of sitting, there weren't any signs before it was machined either though

 

[jetjock]

hmm... looks like someone deleted thier post

Yeah, I often do that when too many anecdotal "facts" are offered without being backed up by science and the truth ends up getting lost in the mess. That way the thread remains consistent and future readers won't have to struggle making a decision about what's right even though the information left behind is technically inaccurate. I don't want to be the source of any confusion here. It's not worth it

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

no, do not put anything on the back side of the bearings? Why would you lube something that you DON'T want to move? That raises the risk of spinning a bearing, and changes your clearances.

The only way that will move is if the rod isnt resized to stock tolerances.
Once that bering is inserted properly it wont come out beause its lubricated!

 

[tig321]

no, do not put anything on the back side of the bearings? Why would you lube something that you DON'T want to move? That raises the risk of spinning a bearing, and changes your clearances.

I wish I read that yesterday when I did that very thing
I don't know why the hell I did it. I am 100% sure I only did the mains this way though. They should be okay shouldn't they? I don't recall reading about anyone spinning a main?
I did put a thin film of oil when I mic'd the bearings the bearings also. They were already near the max std clearance (not the max clearance) I wouldn't want things any more loose, I hope It'll be ok :icon_conf

Edit
I didn't read the next post (quickstrikes) that makes me feel better.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

I wish I read that yesterday when I did that very thing
I don't know why the hell I did it. I am 100% sure I only did the mains this way though. They should be okay shouldn't they? I don't recall reading about anyone spinning a main?
I did put a thin film of oil when I mic'd the bearings the bearings also. They were already near the max std clearance (not the max clearance) I wouldn't want things any more loose, I hope It'll be ok :icon_conf

Edit
I didn't read the next post (quickstrikes) that makes me feel a better.

Trust me you have nothing to worry about. That was an overstatement thats not going to affect your build unless the part are wrong ie being size, or out of round rods and mains. good shops will even true the mains when the block is brought in.:icon_bigg.
To get an accurate plastigauge you cant have any lube any where. You platiguage then lube and assmble.:naughty: :nono:

 

[gixxer750]

Trust me you have nothing to worry about. That was an overstatement thats not going to affect your build unless the part are wrong ie being size, or out of round rods and mains. good shops will even true the mains when the block is brought in.:icon_bigg.
To get an accurate plastigauge you cant have any lube any where. You platiguage then lube and assmble.:naughty: :nono:

I still beg to differ on lubing the back of the bearings. It cannot be a good idea.

There is a tiny tab that holds the bearing in place. Making the back slippery can NOT reduce the risk of spinning a bearing. Also, if you put lube on the back of the bearing, that lube takes up space. That space taken up in turn causes there to be less space on the other side of the bearing, making the clearance tighter between the bearing and the crank. If you already have one on the tight side, it may be just enough to get it out of spec. I've never had a engine failure from building this way.


Jetjock:

Point taken. It may not be the BEST thing to use, however it does stay put quite well, and has decent lubrication properties for the amount of time it will stay there.

 

[pimptrizkit]

i recomend using a needle style torque wrench, im throughing my clicker style away,

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

pimptrizkit, send it over here, cause i just broke my needle wrench :wtc:

 

[jetjock]

Just FYI, the correct term is a beam torque wrench. The clicker is called a micrometer wrench. Nothing wrong with them other than they release torque at the point they click. Because of this some fastener applications require "torque and hold" where a beam type wrench must be used.

I have both but usually use an electronic torque adapter in between a normal ratchet and socket. It gets calibrated once a year and the beam and micrometer get caled off the adapter. Otherwise it costs about $25 to have a wrench caled. If you want the a micrometer type to retain cal for as long as possible be sure to reduce the torque setting to minimum before storing it. And don't use it as a breaker bar to loosen things

 

[Nick M]

Just don't have the block bored until you are ready to assemble.

When you do reach that point, wash the block, especially the bores with soapy water. Then dry them out and assemble. And no, don't put lube behind the bearing. Lubriplate 105 also works very well. Being more solid than oil, you can pack the oil pump so it is primed.

 

[loki2043]

I didn't get the block bored. I got it rehoned as I'm using the same pistions. had then coated to hold heat in better

 

[pimptrizkit]

pimptrizkit, send it over here, cause i just broke my needle wrench :wtc:

you dont want my wrench.

my bottom end is getting louder every day, to the poiint im about to take the car off the road again.. i cant afford this bull shit.

 

[loki2043]

dude WTF, is it starting to knock again? im getting scared to finish my engine... i dont get it. get that fucking wrench checked today at a shop.

 

[pimptrizkit]

well it has made this noise from day one tony. but it has become louder.

i was thinking piston slap, but it doesn't make any sense,

im not going to touch it untill i swap for 5spd.and when i do the pan will be droped and i'll inspect what i have. if bearings look fine, im going to have the n/a motor decked and bored and im going to send this block to the junker or some thing