ARZ Oil Pipe torque specs?

JDMMA70

JDMMA70

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When I purchased my crank scraper it came with these 4 grade 8 washers. Can anyone confirm if these washers go on the front timing and rear oil sear cover. I remember IJ said something about stacking washers so the pan is at equal height. Hoping IJ will chime in.

p1931313_1.jpg


Thanks
~JDMMA70
 
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Supracentral

Supracentral

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Mar 30, 2005
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If the design is the same as the ones I've used, they go on the front and rear bolt holes where there's no crank scraper to prevent the pan from deforming.
 
JDMMA70

JDMMA70

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Dec 4, 2006
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Supracentral;1931318 said:
If the design is the same as the ones I've used, they go on the front and rear bolt holes where there's no crank scraper to prevent the pan from deforming.
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Oh cool sweet. I know this sounds obvious but just to clarify these go in between the pan to act as a spacer correct?
 
Supracentral

Supracentral

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JDMMA70;1931319 said:
Oh cool sweet. I know this sounds obvious but just to clarify these go in between the pan to act as a spacer correct?
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Yes, use FIPG to stick them on there and to seal where they don't.
 
JDMMA70

JDMMA70

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Ok new question same thread to keep things simple. I spoke with ARZ about the oil supply line and how tight the nut to the block should be. The reply i got was

Derek,
The fitting into the pump has a jamb nut and a special washer, to contain the o-ring. Therad all the way in, then back off as required to match the correct angle of our hardline.

On the engine block side, apply 2 revolutions of teflon tape to the tapered threads ONLY, thread gently into the block. That tapered thread has the power to split the block casting and customers have done it before. In this location it would be advisable to use the factory torque specs.

When torquing the B-nut on the hard line onto the fitting, it takes quite a bit of force, since you are sealing the 37deg surface between the line and the AN fitting. Its not a ton but a bit more than twice what it took to tighten the tapered fitting into the block. Obviously you will be using 2 wrenches, one on the fitting, (to keep it stationary) and one on the B-nut, to crush the soft metal hardline on to the 37deg surface.

You will know, they tighten very positively. DO NOT over tighten the tapered thread into the block. If the block is already split, don't panic, call me.
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So upon looking up in the TSRM which was not very clear how tight it should be for the nut to the block. I came across this. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=LU&P=12

Torque the Union and Bolt to 25ft lbs.
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So im assuming the union is the nut that threads into the block? Ultimately im wondering as per ARZ should i torque this to 25ft lbs or do a few revolutions with a wrench? I realize 25ft lbs is not much, but I would rather ask and be safe than sorry.
 
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