arp torque
- Thread starter mista_sup
- Start date
There was a card that came with your new studs along with a packet of lube. The card tells you the torque specs with that packet and with motor oil. Mine arent near me or I would list it out.
jdub;1016468 said:
I bought my ARP studs second hand, never installed... but the previous owner had done me the favour of losing the torque spec sheet. After much time spent searching for this number in another thread, i found it spec'd at 80ft/lbs initial installation torque, and 89 ft/lbs as the re-torque spec after heat cycling the engine for a while.
Does one just back off the studs till they crack loose then retorque to 89, relying on any lubricant that will be around the stud?
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I don't think I said 89 ft/lbs on a re-torque...now 85 ft/lbs does come to mind 
(if I did it was a typo)
Yes, follow the TSRM pattern and use a breaker bar to just crack the nut (1/4 turn or so), then go to 85 ft/lbs. Do them one at a time...i.e. don't crack all then re-torque all.
(if I did it was a typo)
Yes, follow the TSRM pattern and use a breaker bar to just crack the nut (1/4 turn or so), then go to 85 ft/lbs. Do them one at a time...i.e. don't crack all then re-torque all.
jdub;1016479 said:
why wouldnt you release in order(1/4 turn on all ) then then torque in 3 passes to 85ftlbs?
Why reduce the clamping force all at once?
Three passes from 80 to 85 ft/lbs? Bit over kill...I guess you can do that if you want. No point really in making this more painful than it is.
Three passes from 80 to 85 ft/lbs? Bit over kill...I guess you can do that if you want. No point really in making this more painful than it is.
need new tires;1016504 said:
We want to crack them just a smidge loose so that adding ~5-8 ft/lbs over comes static friction and actually tightens the nut. I.e. tightening a nut that's 70ft/lbs tight would require (depending on what it is) anywhere from 75-80ft/lbs to loosen. This is why we back them off a smidge until it makes a "cracking" sound, then torque to spec. This lets us have some breathing room on the torque wrench before the spec torque. Also, always do one smooth motion to torque spec, do not stop rotating the wrench once you've started, or you'll have to overcome static friction again on the now-tighter bolt.
If we backed them all off at once, there's potential to cause a BHG, which is what we're trying to prevent. Keep the gasket squished as much as possible, in as many places as possible. Also do it while the engine is stone cold.