arp studs and re tourqing

[max-89supra(t)]

dam it!! i am putting my engine together and am using arp studs, just popped the head on and found out that the cams are in the way for most of the arp nuts, ok ill have to take the cams off no biggie, but do i gotta re torgue these suckers later??

another problem, the last two arp nuts(behind cylinder #6) wont even screw on cuz the head cast is too close to the stud, should i shave a little bit of that section off? any one else run into these problems? thanks

 

[hvyman]

there's a torque spec and sequence for removing and installing the cams. also arp's should have a allen key on one side of the stud to screw them in. hand tight tho do not torque them in.

 

[LordLo]

I had to retorque mine. I didn't retorque the first time and I blew the headgasket at a tiny 10 psi. When I replaced the hg again, a few of the nuts had loosened.

Maybe I did something wrong, but I followed the directions and used their moly grease so my conclusion is that they need to get heat cycled and retorqued. The only way I suppose.

 

[WhtMa71]

Its a pita doing it in the car..Have to put the washers in then you can stick the studs in and then the nuts don't like to fit through there very well. I had to grind down my socket to make it fit in the head. I kept the cams in though and there was no problem with them. Yes you will need to retorque after a few heat cycles.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

ok a few heat cycles is what?? a week, a couple days of driving or what?? and what should i tourque the arps to? i was told 85 ft lbs but the guy used bolts not studs like me, and retourqing is only required once right?

 

[rayall01]

ok a few heat cycles is what?? a week, a couple days of driving or what?? and what should i tourque the arps to? i was told 85 ft lbs but the guy used bolts not studs like me, and retourqing is only required once right?

Five heatup\cooldown cycles. No boosting during this process. Only one retorque needed. 80 ft lbs if using moly lube, 120 ft lbs for 30 wgt oil. Read the info that came with the studs, and if you don't have it, I believe it's available on the ARP website.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Think about this..............Do the Cams not turn when the motor turns? there's no need to remove the cams.

 

[FullNelson]

Five heatup\cooldown cycles. No boosting during this process. Only one retorque needed. 80 ft lbs if using moly lube, 120 ft lbs for 30 wgt oil. Read the info that came with the studs, and if you don't have it, I believe it's available on the ARP website.

When you do it, you only do one at a time and back it off a quarter turn correct? Would this allow enough room for either oil to work its way down around the stud threads?

What temperature should the motor be at when retorquing them, let it cool down for an hour or a day?

 

[LordLo]

Don't matter. Just drive it like normal and don't boost it. Retorque it on the weekend.

And yeah, just put a socket on the crank. Move it to allow access to the studs; easy.

 

[rayall01]

When you do it, you only do one at a time and back it off a quarter turn correct? Would this allow enough room for either oil to work its way down around the stud threads?

What temperature should the motor be at when retorquing them, let it cool down for an hour or a day?

It should be stone cold, so wait at least overnight.

 

[87M-GTE]

As for backing a quater turn.
You do one at a time in the torque pattern, break it 1/4 turn then torque to your desired level then move on to the next one, after going through a complete pass of the torque pattern I would go through another 3 passes ie 60lb/ft then 75lb/ft and 90lb/ft..

 

[jdub]

As for backing a quater turn.
You do one at a time in the torque pattern, break it 1/4 turn then torque to your desired level then move on to the next one, after going through a complete pass of the torque pattern I would go through another 3 passes ie 60lb/ft then 75lb/ft and 90lb/ft..

If you are already at 80 ft/lbs on a re-torque, this will not work. You do not want to go to 90 ft/lbs on studs...that is an over torque.

 

[87M-GTE]

I was told by someone at ARP that you could go to 90lb/ft,
This was on a 4G63 however, and I dont know if all ARP studs are created equal..

Yeah, if you are already at for example 80lb/ft you would have to increase torque in smaller increments after the first pass, not to exceed the torque limitations of the stud

 

[jdub]

I was told by someone at ARP that you could go to 90lb/ft,
This was on a 4G63 however, and I dont know if all ARP studs are created equal..

Yeah, if you are already at for example 80lb/ft you would have to increase torque in smaller increments after the first pass, not to exceed the torque limitations of the stud

Each ARP fastener has a different spec for each application (engine, flywheel, etc). You cannot assume what's spec'ed for one is good for another. That is an excellent way to induce fastener failure.

 

[Frankie_lala]

is it bad that i boosted after my rebuild and then re torque it. its only been like 10 heat cycles maybe. only boosted to around 4-5 psi.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

hey guys thanks for all the helpfull info:icon_surp

 

[rayall01]

is it bad that i boosted after my rebuild and then re torque it. its only been like 10 heat cycles maybe. only boosted to around 4-5 psi.

It could be, time will tell. Your still better off having retorqued it, than not.