IndigoMKII;1977561 said:
The stud was clean and I used a allen wrench to tighten them by hand didn't really get that much torque on them
Arp headstud free spinning
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
The stud was clean and I used a allen wrench to tighten them by hand didn't really get that much torque on them
For studs that are taking that kind of stress, I wouldn't use a regular helicoil.
Maybe timesert's.
Maybe timesert's.
Regular Helicoil will be fine if he uses the correct length one, probably a 2d or 2.5d one just need to measure the hole depth, I don't think there's enough meat around the hole to safely use a Time or Keensert.supraguy@aol;1977678 said:
never knew stripping a stud in the block makes crack sound ?????
I would really check for a crack and clean the hole best ya can and get a good light
at lest ya know that the thread are buggered
I would really check for a crack and clean the hole best ya can and get a good light
at lest ya know that the thread are buggered
NashMan;1977706 said:
a snapped threads will make a loud cracking sound.
also 90ft/lbs with no lube will be less clamping force on the stud not more as the friction will have you stop turning the nut sooner.
So I will be installing my studs with an OEM HG too! What could I do to prevent this? Really don't want this to happen haha.
have clean threads, don't bottom out the stud in the block (i normally go to bottom out then back it put 1/4 turn), and umm don't have an old corroded block?
faviles;1977737 said:
this is not a comon thing to happen I all ways put in studs by hand with slight force like mabye 10 foots pounds at most
really I am still wondering what happen
if you put lube on top threads with the washer and nut this will give first to turning force befor the stud will ever move
depending on the condition of the tap, gunk in the block, a cutting tap should never be used on already threaded holes, especially the head bolt ones. You'll cut and make the threads thinners. I've always borrowed a friends thread chaser witch just cleans the threads and doesn't really cut new ones.
IJ.;1977699 said:
They still need material to grab onto, to use a Timesert? I thought these wedged at the bottom, and made there own sort of anchor? Also wouldn't these be more ideal being that this is what Timesert's we're designed for, if I remember correctly. Old Porsche motors would pull the jugs apart over time on the flat motors, and need these to repair them.
Nick M;1977838 said:
Studs have better and more consistent clamping force, so they're still an upgrade. Also when installed correctly, they load the block better and have a lower risk of stripping or cracking the block. Ultimately, they're better in every way here...
nathaninwa;1977873 said:
The bottom part of the threads is usually solid rust, thread chaser didn't do anything but break when I last tried one. A proper tap when used carefully won't make the threads thinner...
TweeT91109;1977883 said:
Timesert MIGHT fit, but it's a gamble even with helicoils. The Timeserts I have in front of me are no thicker than helicoils though...
If i had to guess it was a combination of water leaking into the threaded hole corroding the threads followed by a tap that might have not lined up well enough on the rusty threads. but this is only based on the limited evidence i've seen. I had 3 or 4 head bolt holes that had coolant in them when i took the head off my 7m, it's fairly common with a blown head gasket
Damn, I didnt think you could strip the threads out of the block. I lube both ends of the stud as well as all friction points on the nut and washer. I went 30/60/90 and then cycled (crack back 1/4 turn and back to 90) them on the stand and did it again while in the car during my retorque. Now looking back it sounds like this couldve happened to me if I wasnt so lucky...