Either a 14mm or a 9/16th 12 point socket will work the thinner the better as it gets a bit tight in a few spots . (I turned an old 9/16 down in the Lathe)
Arp Head Bolts or Studs?
- Thread starter mcpcola
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its actually a 12pt 13mm alot of people believe its a 14mm.
Make sure to use 1/2Drive socket so you dont break your converter like i did..
Make sure to use 1/2Drive socket so you dont break your converter like i did..
13mm for the Bolts?
The nuts on the Studs are 100% 14mm or 9/16th (they're so close either will work fine)
The nuts on the Studs are 100% 14mm or 9/16th (they're so close either will work fine)
IJ. said:
:withstupi
absolutely positively 100% correct
the Nut is 14mm 12 point. I have a 14mm 12 point socket that I bought especially for this. The 13mm will NOT fit.
Idealsupra said:
If ARP bolts and studs are the same diameter and material, why would the bolts stretch and not the studs? The tensile strength is so high that neither one is going to stretch. The studs just give a more accurate torque reading by design, as stated earlier.
It's 80 ft/lbs with moly lube for studs. Any more is not helping, its hurting. It will not "seal better" with higher torque.
bigaaron said:
bigaaron
according to ARP, both studs and bolts should stretch. That is why they recommend installing and uninstalling the studs/bolts three times and then measuring the bolt stretch. If it stretched within spec tighten to install value and done.
figgie said:
I was replying to a post about HEAD bolts and studs. Main bolts/studs and rod bolts are a different thing all together. You dont torque head studs or bolts 3 times. Plus, the 3 cycle thing on the mains and rods is so the fasteners and parts seat correctly, as much as it is for stretch.
bigaaron said:
Perhaps you don't but I do per
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T1_InstallPages/T1_01_Retention3.html
If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:
1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.
notice the ambigous use of the word fastner throughout the entire post. They do talk about rod bolts but it is not only limited to that hence why I choose to use the stretch meter method.
So, I was looking at the ARP catalog, and there seems to be 2 kinds of head STUDS for the 7mgte. The regular studs #203-4202 and the U/cut studs #203-4701. Which stud kit is more commonly used? What is the difference?
Also, has anyone had problems fitting the studs on the block? I remember way back seeing a post on studs being too long in some cases? I believe they were talking about HEAD studs. Maybe ARP has since fixed the problem? Any help would be appreciated.
Also, has anyone had problems fitting the studs on the block? I remember way back seeing a post on studs being too long in some cases? I believe they were talking about HEAD studs. Maybe ARP has since fixed the problem? Any help would be appreciated.
UC's are Undercut shanks on the studs so they "stretch" the correct amount.
(Smaller diameter on the unthreaded portion)
(Smaller diameter on the unthreaded portion)
figgie said:Perhaps you don't but I do per
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T1_InstallPages/T1_01_Retention3.html
If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:
1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.
notice the ambigous use of the word fastner throughout the entire post. They do talk about rod bolts but it is not only limited to that hence why I choose to use the stretch meter method.
Look at the picture, he is tightening main studs. You should loosen and tighten your head studs 3 times and let us know how it works. :nuts:
Thank god for you Figgie, because without you the forum might be a place where no one argued about absolutely everything I said.
bigaaron said:
hmm
let see
oh hey wait i have and everything is just dandy.
absolutley everything you said,
hmmm
<-- checks your posts... intresting. Including this one, two posts. yep sounds like everything to me alright! :nuts: Just for you i drank some h8torade right before I posted this also!
hammerhead said:
Even if he isn't running his car hard, proper deck and head preperation is absolutely necessary (unless you're a lucky 1) when installing a MHG.