Arp flywheel bolt snapped :(

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
IBoughtASupra;1707492 said:
Just get new ones, they are cheaper. ARP head studs can be reused but I don't. I believe Ian said he changes the nuts on the studs every six or seven times. I am not sure exactly, but I believe it was him who said that. ARP flywheel bolts are cheap so you might as well get new ones.

Have to agree, if you've stressed 2 to breaking point the others won't be far behind.
 

mytmk3

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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christchurch
Grandavi;1707505 said:
If your in Christchurch NZ... (I have an old school friend there) its probably earthquake related.. I would overbuild..

Yea I am although bolts breaking wasn't a result of the earthquake me being unemployed living of a 1/4 of my regular wage was that sucks trying to come up with schemes right now to earn some cash in the side till my work reopens they can't give me wages because there insurance company filed for bankruptcy

On a side note these are tough fucking bolts kinda tempted to sell my playstaion and tow it to a shop and get them to do it kind of worried I'm going to fuck it up
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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Victoria BC
adampecush;1707182 said:
Did you modify your torque setting to include the loc-tite on the bolts?

Specified torque is a function of thread condition (e.g. lubricated, dry, etc). A dry torque setting used on loc-tite covered threads would likely exceed the intended preload on the bolts, potentially contributing to the failure.

this is a good question but it does state on arp web site that you add red lock tight so i presume they are accounting for the extra slip you get

when i did my car i did not use red lock tight i used blue easier to take off and i find will do the job the same in this application





any ways i hope you snapp it flat and not off set that will be maken finding the center harder best to use tapper punch and use the taper to find the center then simplely hit ti with hammer in a perfect world

i had re tapper some punch just so i could hit center just right


best to use left hand drill bit then try taken it out with one of these guys and if ti does not come out you can all ways drill it out

extractors.jpg
 

mytmk3

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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boostcraver;1707975 said:
Any progress on getting the bolts out? Are you looking for a crank yet?:)

Not yet went to give it a go the other night but started a little off center couldn't see shut under the car with a torch in my mouth lol

Hopfully will get a chance today while it's still light also going to jack the car up more so I can get In a better position to see
 

boostcraver

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Mar 13, 2010
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Not tryin' to tell you what to do, but wouldn't it be easier to yank the motor and have good access to the bolts for drilling? Look at it this way: If you muck it up from the under side of the car, you will likely have to pull it and tear down for the replacement crank, not to mention any necessary machine work to accommodate said new crank. If you pull it out of the car and go at it from a good angle, you may be able to do it easier/better and save the tear down part of the job, as well as the other costs. A relatively little bit of work might save you big in the long run. Like I said, not tellin' you what to do, I'm just givin' you some food for thought... (minding my own business again...)
 

mytmk3

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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christchurch
boostcraver;1708807 said:
Not tryin' to tell you what to do, but wouldn't it be easier to yank the motor and have good access to the bolts for drilling? Look at it this way: If you muck it up from the under side of the car, you will likely have to pull it and tear down for the replacement crank, not to mention any necessary machine work to accommodate said new crank. If you pull it out of the car and go at it from a good angle, you may be able to do it easier/better and save the tear down part of the job, as well as the other costs. A relatively little bit of work might save you big in the long run. Like I said, not tellin' you what to do, I'm just givin' you some food for thought... (minding my own business again...)

Not a bad idea got some one coming to have a look tonite with the state the motors striped down to at the moment would not take long to pull pretty much undo 1 ic pipe and unplug the loom then it's free not to mention we just had another 5.3mag quake last night not too keen on being under the car when another hits
 

dragracer

GearHead
Oct 31, 2005
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Churubusco
More than likely the bolts bottomed out. Doubt you could break the bolts using red loctite.
Once that happens, depending how much you forced them in, could be very hard to get out.

Best way would be to have them EDM'd out and tapped. You wont get them out with a easyout if they bottomed out. Trust me.
 

mytmk3

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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christchurch
well i got it back today aparantly was quite a pain in the ass cost me a pretty penny. Just spent the day cleaning my engine bay tomorow go over the whole motor cleaning that again dealing to any leaks that it had (the whole reason i pulled it to bits) have it back in this weekend with any luck unfortunatly missed the track day which is tomorrow I was trying to get ready for
 

CT26smoker

Banned
May 25, 2010
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Houston
mytmk3;1710157 said:
.........unfortunatly missed the track day which is tomorrow I was trying to get ready for

Such is life, missed a few myself.
And sometimes when I rushed a job to make one at the last minute, I had problems because of rushing.
 

mytmk3

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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christchurch
Back in after a few teething problems all good so far been out for a good drive going to check later for leaks the car is now 90% quieter at idle stil has a small rattle from the clutch but as discussed in another thread that's normal but atleast now you can barley hear it over the exhaust it was kind of embarasing before