****This is simply a write up of my install; I have over 8 years of auto mechanic experience and am not responsible for any damage to your car or brake system that may occur. If you do not have experience with this, I recommend you take it to a professional. **** Sorry had to throw that in, now time for the fun.
Unfortunately I do not have a billion pictures of every little step, but this should be good and AZP offers a great install page as well. Any questions, please let me know.
I installed these over 3 months ago and have just been busy, but here it is.
First off I must say that Arizona Performance’s instructions on their website, are very good and clear. I ordered their kit for the MKIII Supra and went with the SL6 Billet Superlite caliper from Wilwood. I ordered them with the Thermlock Pistons and stainless heat shields. This is a hefty upgrade, but hey why not, it will shine for endurance on the track, ok it was overkill, lol.
The kit includes, Aluminum hats, thick aluminum brackets, all the necessary hardware, Wilwood 13.06” x 1.38” GT Slotted and directional vaned rotor, and the Superlite caliper (forged Superlite 4-piston is standard with the AZP kit).
Everything is packed neat and nothing was missing. First do the obvious, jack up the car securely and remove your wheels. Take a good look at the stock brakes, how the stock brake line snakes through (take a picture if necessary). Loosen the brake line from the caliper and then tighten it slightly to prevent leaking, DO NOT DISCONNECT THE LINE YET. Pop the bolts off the caliper and remove it from the spindle. Wait to disconnect the complete line at this point as it will be removed later.
I used a small shallow bucket to place the caliper in so it keeps the mess off the floor. Be sure to monitor your brake fluid reservoir, if it gets to low you will bring air into the system, keep it at least half full until you are ready to bleed.
Once the OEM caliper is off, time to trim the dust shield off. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pair of tin shears for $7.00, this works great. Trim the lip around the bolt that hold the heat shield on so you can easily get a wrench in there (third picture below). Just followed the AZP instructions. When you are ready to remove it use pliers and be careful, edges are sharp. Once it’s off you are ready to start mocking up the new kit.
I suggest dry mounting everything first to verify fitment. Mount the rotor to the hat and get the hat to rotor bolts on snug. Carefully slide the assembled rotor over the studs and have a pair of open ended 12x1.5” lug nuts handy to thread on to a good snug fit, (do not torque the lug nuts down) to hold the rotor in place.
Next bolt up the caliper-mounting bracket to the caliper and then to the spindle, (AZP labels them for you and the brackets comes with the bolts in place so you know where they go. You can clean the marker off later with brake cleaner). Again mount everything up and lightly torque the brackets.
You may encounter a casting issue on the upper caliper bracket bolt. AZP shows it clearly on their instructions. A simple light grinding of the area with a Dremel will give you the clearance necessary for the head of the bracket bolt. I did not have this issue, my spindle casting was fine.
Once the caliper is in place, remove the bridge bolt. Take a measurement from the outside face of the rotor to the inside face of the caliper (where the pad would be) (while caliper is mounted). Measure both left and right side of the rotor. You want to be as equal as possible on this, if needed shim the caliper to center the rotor. Once you have your measurements, slide the pads in and spin the rotor by hand to make sure the movement is good. You will feel very light friction, but you should be able to rotate the rotor without it fighting you.
Once this is all good, you can remove it, make sure you take note on how your test fitting was all setup.
Torque the 5/16-18 Rotor to hat bolts to 180 INCH pounds; I used RED Loctite on these. The 7/16-20 bolts for the caliper to bracket, torque to 47 Foot pounds, I used RED Loctite on these. Finally the bolts from the bracket to spindle are M12; use the factory torque specs for these.
Unfortunately I do not have a billion pictures of every little step, but this should be good and AZP offers a great install page as well. Any questions, please let me know.
I installed these over 3 months ago and have just been busy, but here it is.
First off I must say that Arizona Performance’s instructions on their website, are very good and clear. I ordered their kit for the MKIII Supra and went with the SL6 Billet Superlite caliper from Wilwood. I ordered them with the Thermlock Pistons and stainless heat shields. This is a hefty upgrade, but hey why not, it will shine for endurance on the track, ok it was overkill, lol.
The kit includes, Aluminum hats, thick aluminum brackets, all the necessary hardware, Wilwood 13.06” x 1.38” GT Slotted and directional vaned rotor, and the Superlite caliper (forged Superlite 4-piston is standard with the AZP kit).
Everything is packed neat and nothing was missing. First do the obvious, jack up the car securely and remove your wheels. Take a good look at the stock brakes, how the stock brake line snakes through (take a picture if necessary). Loosen the brake line from the caliper and then tighten it slightly to prevent leaking, DO NOT DISCONNECT THE LINE YET. Pop the bolts off the caliper and remove it from the spindle. Wait to disconnect the complete line at this point as it will be removed later.
I used a small shallow bucket to place the caliper in so it keeps the mess off the floor. Be sure to monitor your brake fluid reservoir, if it gets to low you will bring air into the system, keep it at least half full until you are ready to bleed.
Once the OEM caliper is off, time to trim the dust shield off. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pair of tin shears for $7.00, this works great. Trim the lip around the bolt that hold the heat shield on so you can easily get a wrench in there (third picture below). Just followed the AZP instructions. When you are ready to remove it use pliers and be careful, edges are sharp. Once it’s off you are ready to start mocking up the new kit.
I suggest dry mounting everything first to verify fitment. Mount the rotor to the hat and get the hat to rotor bolts on snug. Carefully slide the assembled rotor over the studs and have a pair of open ended 12x1.5” lug nuts handy to thread on to a good snug fit, (do not torque the lug nuts down) to hold the rotor in place.
Next bolt up the caliper-mounting bracket to the caliper and then to the spindle, (AZP labels them for you and the brackets comes with the bolts in place so you know where they go. You can clean the marker off later with brake cleaner). Again mount everything up and lightly torque the brackets.
You may encounter a casting issue on the upper caliper bracket bolt. AZP shows it clearly on their instructions. A simple light grinding of the area with a Dremel will give you the clearance necessary for the head of the bracket bolt. I did not have this issue, my spindle casting was fine.
Once the caliper is in place, remove the bridge bolt. Take a measurement from the outside face of the rotor to the inside face of the caliper (where the pad would be) (while caliper is mounted). Measure both left and right side of the rotor. You want to be as equal as possible on this, if needed shim the caliper to center the rotor. Once you have your measurements, slide the pads in and spin the rotor by hand to make sure the movement is good. You will feel very light friction, but you should be able to rotate the rotor without it fighting you.
Once this is all good, you can remove it, make sure you take note on how your test fitting was all setup.
Torque the 5/16-18 Rotor to hat bolts to 180 INCH pounds; I used RED Loctite on these. The 7/16-20 bolts for the caliper to bracket, torque to 47 Foot pounds, I used RED Loctite on these. Finally the bolts from the bracket to spindle are M12; use the factory torque specs for these.
Last edited:
