GrimJack;1488725 said:
My vision of life! :love:
I'd put one big sub in the back and no small ones. Even speakers in the rear were kinda pointless, so I teared them out (couldn't hear any of them when played on good ~usual loudness).
Are you afraid of thiefs?
- Thread starter mattman
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My vision of life! :love:
I'd put one big sub in the back and no small ones. Even speakers in the rear were kinda pointless, so I teared them out (couldn't hear any of them when played on good ~usual loudness).
GrimJack;1488725 said:
Yeah I got the two 8's because I like how fast they hit. I got the 12inch because I wanted more lowes. And the 6X9's...no one told me not to get them. I like good quatlity music and I am one of those people who has a good ear and knows when some kid put $100 craigslist subs in and who got top of the line stuff. Not saying all my stuff is top of the line but the 8's are JL and the 12 and 6X9's is Infinity. Oh and just cuz my system will be able to make one stone deaf doesnt mean it has to be cranked all the time
Meh, quality > quantity any day of the week.
A well rounded system is more important to me than 500lbs of subwoofer in the trunk.
I'm just trying to imagine the sheer size of your sub box if your cargo shade won't fit over it....
A well rounded system is more important to me than 500lbs of subwoofer in the trunk.
I'm just trying to imagine the sheer size of your sub box if your cargo shade won't fit over it....
supra90turbo;1488910 said:
haha. yeah I figure if i gotta have a box back there in our little trunks, I might as well use up the whole thing. Oh and I'm going for quality. I like the way the 8's hit fast but miss the Lows coming from the bigger subs. I could go with a 10, but I already have these. I got them for a pretty good deal, and there now worth resaleing.
Heres a bright idea. Get an alarm with a god shock sensor. Also Mount your box down so it requiers tools and 5 minuets of someones time to remove it. No one will hang around with an alarm going off to try and steal it. Unless they just steal the whole car wich is what id be more worried about.
mattman;1489021 said:
My single 10" is just fine for DnB(160bpm), Dubstep(140bpm), and breaks(110Bbpm). How much faster do you need them to hit?
I have Rockford's in 4/6 stock locations (the other 2 are stock due to the PITA they are to change) and everything is perfect (for me at least). ZNot to mention that my setup is circa 1996.
i just drilled 2 holes through the inside of the sub box and the floor and put some bolts then put the subs back and striped some of the screws on purpose.As for the amp i used some striped screws and hex head bolts. its kind of a paine if you need to take it out but thats the point and it takes a cpl of differnt tools.
My single 10" is just fine for DnB(160bpm), Dubstep(140bpm), and breaks(110Bbpm). How much faster do you need them to hit?
Well seeing as I listen to alot of metal, I need something that can Hit as fast and the drummers can double bass and something that can support the bass drops
Well seeing as I listen to alot of metal, I need something that can Hit as fast and the drummers can double bass and something that can support the bass drops
The other common trick is to use 6 different screw bits... Philips, Robertson, Flat, Torx, Allen, and one security bolt, usually an Allen or Torx with a post in the center. Came out to my car one morning to find the window smashed in and 4/12 of my screws removed. Added a glass break sensor that day.maitai69691;1490859 said:
The best method of keeping your stereo equipment, however, is to *not* advertise it. I rarely turn it up anymore, but when I do, it's not within a mile of my house, or where I park at work. When I do have it up, I pay attention to who is behind me, and if they seem to be going the same place I am, I'll drive to the local police station, park, and go inside. Wait a few minutes and leave. Nobody has ever waited around to see me leave...
I had my stuff stolen several times when I was young and foolish. By now, it's been 20 years since I've had a problem. I'd say it works.
I would have to agree quality over quantity anyday. Now let me get this straight your putting 2 8s 1 10 and 1 12 in your hatch? You do realize that you have to have a certain amount of airspace behind the sub for it to sound good and crisp.
Building your own subwoofer box
An enclosure does more than simply hold the woofer; it is an integral part of the system. A properly sized and built enclosure can turn an inexpensive woofer into a good performer, while a poorly designed or constructed enclosure will make even the finest woofer sound like mud.There are two main challenges in fabricating an enclosure — making sure it contains the proper volume of air, and controlling the cabinet resonances that otherwise will compete with the sound from the woofer and color its sound.
The ideal volume of an enclosure (length x width x height) will vary depending upon the woofer you select. The enclosure volume for your woofer is usually quoted as internal volume. Therefore, in calculating the overall external dimensions of the box, you must take into account the thickness of the board, the space occupied by the speaker and any internal bracing.
Once you know the internal volume you want to achieve, you'll decide on the dimensions of the enclosure. As a rule of thumb, make sure no internal dimension measures more than three times that of any other. But don't make them too close to each other or you will have a cube &mdash one of the worst acoustic shapes for a speaker.
Finally, determine whether your box will be sealed or ported. A sealed box is the easiest to design and build, and protects the woofer against subsonic bass that can affect its performance. A ported box uses a tube (port) that reinforces the bass produced by the woofer. It can offer excellent, high-output performance, but is more challenging to construct.
For more on the topic, check out our article How to Build A Subwoofer Box.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_installation_guide.html?page=6
But, Id say get a nice alarm system, and tint your windows.
Building your own subwoofer box
An enclosure does more than simply hold the woofer; it is an integral part of the system. A properly sized and built enclosure can turn an inexpensive woofer into a good performer, while a poorly designed or constructed enclosure will make even the finest woofer sound like mud.There are two main challenges in fabricating an enclosure — making sure it contains the proper volume of air, and controlling the cabinet resonances that otherwise will compete with the sound from the woofer and color its sound.
The ideal volume of an enclosure (length x width x height) will vary depending upon the woofer you select. The enclosure volume for your woofer is usually quoted as internal volume. Therefore, in calculating the overall external dimensions of the box, you must take into account the thickness of the board, the space occupied by the speaker and any internal bracing.
Once you know the internal volume you want to achieve, you'll decide on the dimensions of the enclosure. As a rule of thumb, make sure no internal dimension measures more than three times that of any other. But don't make them too close to each other or you will have a cube &mdash one of the worst acoustic shapes for a speaker.
Finally, determine whether your box will be sealed or ported. A sealed box is the easiest to design and build, and protects the woofer against subsonic bass that can affect its performance. A ported box uses a tube (port) that reinforces the bass produced by the woofer. It can offer excellent, high-output performance, but is more challenging to construct.
For more on the topic, check out our article How to Build A Subwoofer Box.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_installation_guide.html?page=6
But, Id say get a nice alarm system, and tint your windows.
Thanks for the imput. Sorry Im just going two 8's and one 12. Yeah im aware of the airspace, and am finding the spects on the boxes. Also ported or non. Im going to make the 8's box the suggested size but am going to go alittle smaller on the 12 to make it hit faster. Thats what ive been told anyway. Also im going non-ported as to keep pressure in the box to make them hit even faster.
Making the box smaller can cause a dribbling affect of the woofer. It can damage it, and or cause it to distort.
just get limo tint in the back. thats what i did, and i also got metal brackets and mounted the box and my two amps to the wood on top of the spare tire. so in case they do some how get in there they gonna have a hard time trying to get its out.
Haha i can only imagine the frustration of the theif best idea ever. I eventually want to have a fiberglass box where my back seats are and have my subs there but this trick wont work for that
. I guess the good old Clifford SST 2 mile range 2way pager with motion sensor will have to do the trick. Already had thousand dollars of stereo stolen, dont want them to come around and get my new two thousand dollar system too hahaha what a slap in the face that would be.The same thing was going through my mind when I was working on my setup. It didn't help either that while i was doing the install, my mailman walked by and told me a 15 min story about all the times his amp and subs got stolen. Anyways, I just bolted down my amp underneath the passenger's seat. As far as my subs, I just make sure to turn down my system anytime i enter neighborhoods or if i know I'm about to park nearby.
bolt boxes throught he floor via 1/2" bolts... or just make it sooo heavy that they cant get it out of the car....
Last time I built a system... the box went in the car in 3 seperate pieces that were bolted together once installed to make one... impossible to remove in one piece even if you remove the brackets/mounts... mark and drill all of the subwoofer mount holes, and use t-nuts/allen bolts to secure them....
as far as bass responce goes... dropping air space on a 12 isnt a good idea... it will starve the woofer for air and can make it distort, etc like previously stated... can also damage it....
Personally... I like to run sealed boxes a little on the large side... for depth and harder hits... my current system uses 4 10" woofers on 1400rms in a sealed 6.5 cu. ft box (which is currently forsale btw... I want my back seat again..) and it literally can sound like a concert on any given song... although I do have an equalizer which lets me easily dial in for different music types...
anyways...
do post up pics when your done
as others have said... keep it low profile and hidden for the most part... my mini wall (the box is eqaul to the height of the rear speaker pods) had a black drop down piece that snaps into place over the sub faces which hides everything...
-AcId-
Last time I built a system... the box went in the car in 3 seperate pieces that were bolted together once installed to make one... impossible to remove in one piece even if you remove the brackets/mounts... mark and drill all of the subwoofer mount holes, and use t-nuts/allen bolts to secure them....
as far as bass responce goes... dropping air space on a 12 isnt a good idea... it will starve the woofer for air and can make it distort, etc like previously stated... can also damage it....
Personally... I like to run sealed boxes a little on the large side... for depth and harder hits... my current system uses 4 10" woofers on 1400rms in a sealed 6.5 cu. ft box (which is currently forsale btw... I want my back seat again..) and it literally can sound like a concert on any given song... although I do have an equalizer which lets me easily dial in for different music types...
anyways...
do post up pics when your done
as others have said... keep it low profile and hidden for the most part... my mini wall (the box is eqaul to the height of the rear speaker pods) had a black drop down piece that snaps into place over the sub faces which hides everything...
-AcId-