Anyone using a filter-relocation kit?
- Thread starter mirage83
- Start date
if you change your own oil, then totally worth it. if you have a 7mgte it is a must. hardest part of the install is finding somewhere to mount the filter head
i plan on going with a dual filter head. summit racing sells a kit for pretty cheap, and it has tons of hose included, but i was going to use the black SS fittings from summit also.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4986&N=700+4294817872+400304+115&autoview=sku
its nearly identical to most on the site, just at a better price. gotta love summit racing!
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4986&N=700+4294817872+400304+115&autoview=sku
its nearly identical to most on the site, just at a better price. gotta love summit racing!
If you go with a remote filter head, swap over your cooler circuit to a full flow thermostat controlled cooler. Dump the stock filter head...your motor will thank you.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
If you use a dual filter head, make one of them a Trasko bypass filter:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
Either a TI-10S or a T3/4-20S for more capacity.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
If you use a dual filter head, make one of them a Trasko bypass filter:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
Either a TI-10S or a T3/4-20S for more capacity.
That is correct...it really doesn't matter which position the Trasko is in. It's internal valve will only allow a small portion of oil through, most will be going through the Wix. The small amount that does go through the Trasko is filtered down to 1 micron...over time all the oil in the motor gets filtered by the Trasko. Once that happens, your oil will be very clean (free of particulates) and stay that way.
me likey that idea. when do you know when to change them? by doing an oil test? how many miles do your trasko's normally go for?
The 1st one will only go 1000-2000 miles...it's going to filter out all the crap that's been floating around your motor for years. After that, 4000-5000 miles depending on the quality of the oil. Each motor is different...the filter element in a Trasko is essentially a small roll of TP. When you pull it, you will be able to see how dirty it is and adjust the next change accordingly. Change the Wix every 4000 miles. BTW - the oil is still going to darken over time (not as bad though)...that's what all oil does when exposed to the heat in an engine.
Assuming everything else (wear metals, presence of coolant, fuel dilution, etc) is ok, base your oil change on TBN. That is the ability of the oil to neutralize acids...when it drops to less than 2, change it. Blackstone is good...every 4000 miles is sufficient (you can time it with the Wix change):
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
This little gizmo make taking a sample easy:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38929
Just drain a small amount into a pan, then catch your sample in the bottle Blackstone provides. Be careful about touching the inside or any contamination at all, the analysis is very sensitive. With the Wix filter change and the amount you discard as part of the sampling process, you add oil back to full (one quart over the dipstick mark on the 7M). This helps replenish the additives...use the same make/viscosity oil.
Assuming everything else (wear metals, presence of coolant, fuel dilution, etc) is ok, base your oil change on TBN. That is the ability of the oil to neutralize acids...when it drops to less than 2, change it. Blackstone is good...every 4000 miles is sufficient (you can time it with the Wix change):
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
This little gizmo make taking a sample easy:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38929
Just drain a small amount into a pan, then catch your sample in the bottle Blackstone provides. Be careful about touching the inside or any contamination at all, the analysis is very sensitive. With the Wix filter change and the amount you discard as part of the sampling process, you add oil back to full (one quart over the dipstick mark on the 7M). This helps replenish the additives...use the same make/viscosity oil.
planned on breaking it in on HD30 from castrol, then switching to regular castrol 5w-30, and then after a 1000miles or so switch to redline 5-20 or 5w30. think i'll try out both and see which gives the pressure i like more.
The 5W-20 is pretty thin for a 7M, but it's been done (JetJock) with no problems on basically a stock engine. Your pressures are going to be lower than you're used to seeing. Take a look at the German Castrol 0W-30...excellent oil (PAO base) and cheaper than Red Line, especially when you catch it on sale at AutoZone or PepBoys. But if you want the best, Red Line is it 
might try GC first... its kinda like do i want the 2nd place oil, being GC, or do i want the 1st place oil, Redline? although i DO like the idea of a 0-30 as its thinner... but 0 or 5, its not that much... thats why i said either 5w-20 or 5w-30... most likely 5w-30 with all of the info i've gathered from you.
and i didnt realize how much trasko filters are... 75? my god... i know its good, but im talkin about
6 or 7 quarts of oil - 50-60(redlind)
wix filter - $12 (for both)
and then another $75 for just one filter? if i use the trasko i'll have to use the GC to offset the cost, or look for another somewhat comparable filter...
and i thought $150 oil changes were only for diesels... haha
and i didnt realize how much trasko filters are... 75? my god... i know its good, but im talkin about
6 or 7 quarts of oil - 50-60(redlind)
wix filter - $12 (for both)
and then another $75 for just one filter? if i use the trasko i'll have to use the GC to offset the cost, or look for another somewhat comparable filter...
and i thought $150 oil changes were only for diesels... haha
Most of vehicles used only single oil filter and they last over 200k miles , so why do we really need double oil filters ? the more oil fiters added the more restricted oil flow . I think a good single oil filter like WIX is more than what you need . Also 5w-30 is thicker than 5w-20 , they also called automatic oil , the first number is for cold start up as soon as your car warm up it'll switch to 2nd number .
its called protection, and just means my car will last for 400k. so how about that? and its not that much of a restriction, what, its going to raise my PSI at an idle by 4psi more? or cruising by another 8 or 10psi? big deal... and i've read a lot of info posted in the oil forum, and its not a "switch" by any means... as they warm up they get to the 30wt, and just because your coolant is warm doesnt always mean your oil is warm...
Rennat;1052838 said:
so your car will last for 400k miles or it's already lasted 400k miles ? because that's a big different between them .
lol. im just messing with you... im just saying that having 2 filters isnt a bad thing. its just added protection...
its like having sex with a girl on the pill and wearing a condom. you know for a damn fact shes not going to get pregnant...
and there are cars that go up to 400k. (excluding diesels)
its like having sex with a girl on the pill and wearing a condom. you know for a damn fact shes not going to get pregnant...
and there are cars that go up to 400k. (excluding diesels)
im useing a speco filter relocation kit and it works great and fitted very well.
certainly makes changing oil filters regulary a cinch and im also useing a z9 oil filter which is almost twice the size of the stocko one.My 7mgte engine is built with all the goodies but im sure the relocation kit has helped boost oil pressure, it gives me 80psi cold @ idle, 70-80psi @ cruise warmed up, 25-30psi idle hot.Let me know if you want pics...:icon_bigg
oil is castrol 15-40
certainly makes changing oil filters regulary a cinch and im also useing a z9 oil filter which is almost twice the size of the stocko one.My 7mgte engine is built with all the goodies but im sure the relocation kit has helped boost oil pressure, it gives me 80psi cold @ idle, 70-80psi @ cruise warmed up, 25-30psi idle hot.Let me know if you want pics...:icon_bigg
oil is castrol 15-40
I just had such a long reply typed out GRRRRR stupid laptop keyboard and pushing the wrong buttons in the dark...
Summary:
Initial Trasko cost is only one time, comes with 2 filters, after that the filter elements aren't too pricey at all
Will not increase pressure in system because it is a BYPASS filter, the more pressure in the system the less is routed through the media, plus at this point you're already going to have much more flow without the crappy stock pressure relief nonsense
We don't have the budget restrictions the manufacturers do, the same reason we go back and rebuild with forged internals, arp's, etc, to strengthen points where Toyota had to choose mass production friendly components.
Why?
Summary:
Rennat;1052806 said:
Initial Trasko cost is only one time, comes with 2 filters, after that the filter elements aren't too pricey at all
Will not increase pressure in system because it is a BYPASS filter, the more pressure in the system the less is routed through the media, plus at this point you're already going to have much more flow without the crappy stock pressure relief nonsense
jtran8;1052828 said:
We don't have the budget restrictions the manufacturers do, the same reason we go back and rebuild with forged internals, arp's, etc, to strengthen points where Toyota had to choose mass production friendly components.
wiseco7mgt;1052908 said:
Why?
15-40? because my turbo is on its way out and i dont feel like pissing my money down the drain on $75.00 mobil 1.if the car is only being driven to work and back and obviously not boosted.,,,,,,Till tax time:biglaugh: