J
JerzeySlowpra
Guest
sweet, i didnt see the part where is said which adapters were included, thanks for your help man
J
JerzeySlowpra
Guest
kamil said:
1. Buy either the Summit or Perma-Cool universal relocation kit from summit.
2. Buy the N/A oil filter stud from toyota (http://cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291410/1502_1.html - part 15600A in this diagram).
3. Remove the entire 7MGTE Oil Filter Housing (shown here: http://cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291410/1502_2.html) from the block.
4. Screw the new N/A oil filter stud into the block and then screw the filter relocation adapter onto it. Now you have 2 bungs that you can route to anywhere you want the oil filter to be. They will be labeled IN/OUT, keep that in mind.
Now if you want to convert to bigger oil lines and AN fittings (this will get pricey), here is a quote from this thread on supraforums:
And one more thread worth reading through : http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253229
Could I just run this setup without the temperature valve so that the oil is always running to the cooler or is there reason I need that? It seems that once the motor is already warmed that the oil should always be running to the cooler so I want to know if I need the temp. valve.
JerzeySlowpra said:
Oil needs to be at a certain temperature to work propperly, so yes you want the valve. Too cold is as bad as too hot
you dont want the oil to be TOO cool, which CAN happen. especially in the fall, winter. you want that oil at 'operating temperature.' for summer time, you can *probably* get away with no thermostat, but i wouldnt do it, personally.
edit: jeff beat me to it...!
-shaeff
edit: jeff beat me to it...!
-shaeff
Q:
Does the set up above allow oil to go back to the motor from the thermostat,or is it blocked off completely?
Does the set up above allow oil to go back to the motor from the thermostat,or is it blocked off completely?
kamil said:
now, wouldnt you want the pressure sensor to be hooked up after the cooler? it is my understanding that any cooler has a potential for a pressure drop. also whats wrong with using the tap in the block, where the stock sensor is at?
supraman7mgte said:
this type of thermostat usually lets about 10% of flow into the cooler when its closed and about 90% to the cooler when open. this pre-warms the oil in the cooler and prevents air pockets. and never opening all the way acts like a relief valve in case the cooler becomes a restriction.
edit: i just realized i didnt clearly answer your question. that thermostat, re-routes the flow. it doesnt stop it.
kamil said:
Sorry for the dumb question, but I dont see the oil filter anywhere in that diaghram. Where should it go?
And which filter relocation kit is the right one? You posted this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...part=SUM-G4985&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch
But on the guide you wrote you posted this partnumber:
Part #PRM-10695
The part numbers dont match.
regards
Krister
kamil said:
Either one of the relocation kits will work just fine.
Thanks, now I think I got it.
What is the difference in the two relocation kits?
One is by summit, the other by perma-cool. They both work equally well in our application and I am unaware of any difference other than their brand name.
you can get the thermostat from advance auto parts. It is a little higher though, its in the B&M cat.
also, what are thoughts on this type oil cooler?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/High...35580QQitemZ4585682535QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/High...35580QQitemZ4585682535QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Gixx: Looks good nice big in and outs!
I'm using the B&M version and it has 1/2 inNouts.
The B&M TStat is a 90/10 so there's always something going through the cooler even when it's closed so no air pockets and no big glug of stone cold oil when it first opens. (just thought I'd mention it)
<edit> This is the B&M Cooler I'm using.
And this is the TStat.
I'm using the B&M version and it has 1/2 inNouts.
The B&M TStat is a 90/10 so there's always something going through the cooler even when it's closed so no air pockets and no big glug of stone cold oil when it first opens. (just thought I'd mention it)
<edit> This is the B&M Cooler I'm using.
And this is the TStat.
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why does every one hate the stock oiling system so much as in the bye pass it does fine job for what it is ment to do. i can under stand if you wana be lazy and get a filter relocation
just bigger stock cooler will do the job
this is diffent in less you wana incresa oil persure thou witch i don't think is needed on stock rebuild on stock clearnces can be very bad thing
remmber the stock cooler only really work's at wot or heavy rpm witch is a good thing
alot of oem cars use by passes even the fancy ones
????????
just bigger stock cooler will do the job
this is diffent in less you wana incresa oil persure thou witch i don't think is needed on stock rebuild on stock clearnces can be very bad thing
remmber the stock cooler only really work's at wot or heavy rpm witch is a good thing
alot of oem cars use by passes even the fancy ones
????????
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Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I love how easy the oil changes are on my car. 
To change the filter, just open the hood, take off a few fittings, and replace the filter. Easy as can be, and if you do it right, it does not drip a drop anywhere. (Push the oil in the filter and cooler into the pan with compressed air after removing the "in" side AN10 fitting, then screw of the upper filter end, and you have a filter that is just wet with oil, and has all the crud trapped in it, but no major amount of old oil left to drip anywhere.)
When I change the bypass filter, I do the same, and it makes it so easy to change them with very little oil mess. (For that one, I just remove it completely after pushing the oil back into the pan too, then change the filter out while the assy. is clamped in my vice.)
Filter is on the apron and has AN10 lines running to it, the bypass filter is where the vapor canister used to mount, and has AN4 lines in and out. (I used the stock oil return for the bypass cooler in the pan to return the oil back to the motor with a larger fitting tapped into the pan.)
Here is a close up of the Canton full flow. I think this is the best location and filter type possible for any 7M. (Depth filters from Canton, and Bypass from Oilguard.) Depth filters don't have a bypass, so your always filtering your oil. They also don't have as much pressure drop across the filter, even when dirty. (Think K&N air filter, it's a depth filter.) The best part is how well they work. Spin on canister filters with paper, or even synthetic filter media generally don't stop stuff much smaller than 20 ro 40 microns. Wear is caused by stuff that is 10 microns or larger. (Some say 8.) The Canton full flow filter is rated to stop particles down to 8 microns or better, and the bypass filter is 1 micron or better.
To change the filter, just open the hood, take off a few fittings, and replace the filter. Easy as can be, and if you do it right, it does not drip a drop anywhere. (Push the oil in the filter and cooler into the pan with compressed air after removing the "in" side AN10 fitting, then screw of the upper filter end, and you have a filter that is just wet with oil, and has all the crud trapped in it, but no major amount of old oil left to drip anywhere.)
When I change the bypass filter, I do the same, and it makes it so easy to change them with very little oil mess. (For that one, I just remove it completely after pushing the oil back into the pan too, then change the filter out while the assy. is clamped in my vice.)
Filter is on the apron and has AN10 lines running to it, the bypass filter is where the vapor canister used to mount, and has AN4 lines in and out. (I used the stock oil return for the bypass cooler in the pan to return the oil back to the motor with a larger fitting tapped into the pan.)
Here is a close up of the Canton full flow. I think this is the best location and filter type possible for any 7M. (Depth filters from Canton, and Bypass from Oilguard.) Depth filters don't have a bypass, so your always filtering your oil. They also don't have as much pressure drop across the filter, even when dirty. (Think K&N air filter, it's a depth filter.) The best part is how well they work. Spin on canister filters with paper, or even synthetic filter media generally don't stop stuff much smaller than 20 ro 40 microns. Wear is caused by stuff that is 10 microns or larger. (Some say 8.) The Canton full flow filter is rated to stop particles down to 8 microns or better, and the bypass filter is 1 micron or better.
I love your setup, Adjuster. It's the most complicated mess at first glance, but after a minute, it all makes perfect sense.
Ryan: I don't understand the animosity towards ditching the stock pressure based cooler bypass unit, I really don't. The only thing I'd call lazy is upgrading everything else and leaving the factory GTE bypass on there...
Sure it works fine, but that doesn't mean that it works correctly.
Ryan: I don't understand the animosity towards ditching the stock pressure based cooler bypass unit, I really don't. The only thing I'd call lazy is upgrading everything else and leaving the factory GTE bypass on there...
Sure it works fine, but that doesn't mean that it works correctly.
Just want to add my experience with the Summit kit.
First, you dont have to get rid of the stock cooler and buy that stud everyones talking about. This confused the hell out of me at first when planning my mod.
The Summit kit threads right onto where the filter itself once sat using the original stud. The problem for me however was getting the hose ends to fully thread into the relocator housing. What i assume was cheap machining caused me weeks of delays and oil leak headaches.
I finally bought the welded on Driftmotion kit.
I attempted to use some Summit swivel hose ends i had. Again i was thwarted by cheap machining on these threads too. More delays but no leaks cuz i didnt fill it this time. Ordered different hose ends on Ebay and they worked great.
Moral is never buy Summit brand.
First, you dont have to get rid of the stock cooler and buy that stud everyones talking about. This confused the hell out of me at first when planning my mod.
The Summit kit threads right onto where the filter itself once sat using the original stud. The problem for me however was getting the hose ends to fully thread into the relocator housing. What i assume was cheap machining caused me weeks of delays and oil leak headaches.
I finally bought the welded on Driftmotion kit.
I attempted to use some Summit swivel hose ends i had. Again i was thwarted by cheap machining on these threads too. More delays but no leaks cuz i didnt fill it this time. Ordered different hose ends on Ebay and they worked great.
Moral is never buy Summit brand.