Anyone else have surging issues with SSQVs?

annoyingrob

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supra_ed;962807 said:
i have a new genuine hks that does nothing but surge. how did u fix urs? wat did u do to the spring??
I opened up the back half of the BOV, and I took the spring completely out. The BOV will still function without it, as there are two other methods for closing it. It's quite funny now, it stays open for a LONG time when you're idling. PSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.......................................hhhhhh....................

I wish HKS didn't get rid of the tension adjustment on these. This is one of the first HKS products I'm thoroughly disappointed with.
 

annoyingrob

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I'm tempted to get a TIAL, and put that on too.

I'm not a big fan of the Bosch valves. I've had too many reliability issues on my father's car with them, even with the metal reinforced diaphraghm ones. Plus, the lower grade ones tended to push open when running 20psi on them.
 

Rennat

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20psi on a bosch? lol....

my dad has had his 103 bov on his saab for 130k+ and it holds perfect. his car still feels like it did 100k ago...

i was going to put a wrx/sti OEM bov onto my car, my friend is going to sell it for like $10 or somethin... he said it can hold 20psi, and with the "quarter mod" it can hold 25psi... i only need it to hold 15 and under!
 

Keros

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I have the DM SSQV, and although I haven't gotten any extensive driving with it, I've yet to hear it open completely. I've tried to adjust the screw to min/max, seems to not make a difference in the surging. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong... make no mistake, I think it's the user not the valve the sucks, lol.

I'm running low boost, 8psi I think... is that too low to build pressure to crack the valve?
 

GrimJack

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Keros;963868 said:
I have the DM SSQV, and although I haven't gotten any extensive driving with it, I've yet to hear it open completely. I've tried to adjust the screw to min/max, seems to not make a difference in the surging. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong... make no mistake, I think it's the user not the valve the sucks, lol.

I'm running low boost, 8psi I think... is that too low to build pressure to crack the valve?
That's where I have problems too. If I push it hard, anything over about 10psi, it works fine. 8 - 10 is a bit of a crapshoot, anything less is surgetown, pop: me.
 

supra_ed

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u said the bov is open at idle with the spring removed? does it idle ok? has anyone just put a softer spring in it instead of removing it completely?
 

s383mmber1

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Find the BOV thats right for you. Remeber: the ENTIRE idea of a BOV is to ELIMINATE compressor surge. So one that doesnt function correctly is useless to me.
 

annoyingrob

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supra_ed;965044 said:
u said the bov is open at idle with the spring removed? does it idle ok? has anyone just put a softer spring in it instead of removing it completely?

My motor is MAP based, so yes, it idles just fine. You could put a softer spring in, I tried that first. It helped, but it wasn't 100%. If you were MAF based, you would need to recirculate it, or put a very soft spring in to help it close just a little better.
 

supra_ed

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yeah i have a vpc but i still would think it would effect idle. im gonna try to find a smaller spring, wat did u use??
 

GrimJack

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No, it won't affect idle. I've run mine with the BOV OFF - as in, big gaping hole into the IC piping, it idles perfect.

I'm running MAP as well, of course, this wouldn't work worth a damn on the stock AFM setup. :)
 

supra_ed

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aahhhh. im gonna try that while my engine is under construction (for a 3rd time). i might just put the blitz back on if i cant figure it out