Any tips & tricks for motor swap? bad for good motor (simple swap I would think)
- Thread starter steveaw11
- Start date
You can pretty much "run it till it blows" if you wanted, the performance will diminish as it gets worse and other symptoms will occur. Catastrophic failure is pretty unlikely to happen for a very long time though.
I don't think most people understand that if you can feel the play it's, more likely than not, out of spec.
I don't think most people understand that if you can feel the play it's, more likely than not, out of spec.
Plan on going with that DM turbo any time soon? I've been eyeing one for a while now but I'm a little weary of it's longevity and have not really heard a lot about it...
BTW, my turbo has LOADS of shaft play @ 146k...
BTW, my turbo has LOADS of shaft play @ 146k...
mkIIIman089;1443802 said:
Not really sure when, Im concentrating on getting the car going atm, but it wouldnt be too long, maybe a few months, Ive heard the low trims should last a good while, while one like the 60-1 may not due to alot more stresses on the shaft.
I dont want the 60-1 anyway though, I want to keep the car stock-ish for a while, thats my reasoning for a low trim version.
Also got the B/A headgasket in today, says made in Japan right on it. Looks to be of high quality. Wouldn't suprise me if they bought it from the same company that builds the OEM headgasket.
Well got some pics of the motor yesterday, Looks pretty decent inside under the valve covers, All the rubber was still soft, but Still I went ahead and put new VC gaskets (with RTV in the cam cap to head corner) and grommets on.
You can see the top end looks to have atleast been in a machine shop, its WAYY to clean for a 159k mile motor, even if it had oil changes every 3k, its still way to clean.
Looks as though I can remove the headbolts without taking the cams out the lady I spoke with at ARP told me I can install the studs with head on, Im still debating on doing this though, not sure if its justified yet to put studs in when it has a OEM style HG on.
you can see the new TB, yay, and a newish Koyo tensioner (OEM), looks like the cam seals are not leaking, but appears as if the crank seal is leaking, (yay) I tried to get the pulley off last night with no luck, that bolt is on there tight as hell, I do not have an impact wrench, but I will give it one more go with my tool to keep the pulley tight as I try to break that bolt loose.
Ive got a new CPS cover/gaskets/bolts coming in the mail. Wonder why it is adjusted so far out.
Also (not pictured) I found the ticking I was hearing, the EGR line from the EGR itself to the intake manifold was undone, looks to have been that way for a while as the threads are rusty, how someone didnt figure that out I dont know.
Today (Sun) I am going to drain its oil and take the pan off to give things a look over, see if I can tell if the bottem end was taken apart and cleaned/rebuilt too, Im thinking something was done, the pan has a white-ish RTV on it and I know thats not the normal stuff, pics to come of that later.
pretty large pics, if you click them again once your in photobucket they blow up pretty good.
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You can see the top end looks to have atleast been in a machine shop, its WAYY to clean for a 159k mile motor, even if it had oil changes every 3k, its still way to clean.
Looks as though I can remove the headbolts without taking the cams out the lady I spoke with at ARP told me I can install the studs with head on, Im still debating on doing this though, not sure if its justified yet to put studs in when it has a OEM style HG on.
you can see the new TB, yay, and a newish Koyo tensioner (OEM), looks like the cam seals are not leaking, but appears as if the crank seal is leaking, (yay) I tried to get the pulley off last night with no luck, that bolt is on there tight as hell, I do not have an impact wrench, but I will give it one more go with my tool to keep the pulley tight as I try to break that bolt loose.
Ive got a new CPS cover/gaskets/bolts coming in the mail. Wonder why it is adjusted so far out.
Also (not pictured) I found the ticking I was hearing, the EGR line from the EGR itself to the intake manifold was undone, looks to have been that way for a while as the threads are rusty, how someone didnt figure that out I dont know.
Today (Sun) I am going to drain its oil and take the pan off to give things a look over, see if I can tell if the bottem end was taken apart and cleaned/rebuilt too, Im thinking something was done, the pan has a white-ish RTV on it and I know thats not the normal stuff, pics to come of that later.
pretty large pics, if you click them again once your in photobucket they blow up pretty good.