has anyone found a trick for removing the oil tube from either the turbo or block to pull the turbo out the car?
any tips or tricks?
- Thread starter supraman666
- Start date
Never had a problem. I always pull turbo and manifold as a unit. Oild tube never gave me an issua
supraman666;1347715 said:
You have to remove the line from the block, its too difficult to remove from the turbo while in the car. You can get to it with a 6'' extention and a 12mm deep well socket from the bottom side; hope you have good feeling and good dexterity in your hands!
The trick is to have someone help. get a bunch of extensions and an elbow and feed the socket up from underneath and have someone on top guide it onto the nuts underneath the turbo. Then do the bottome lines.
I always remove it with no issues. I use 1/4 extension's, and a swivel. The oil drain I can just find that too, then disconnect the oil feed 17MM. Everything is quite easy. I never remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo.
black89t;1347824 said:
I just use a 6in extension and a 12mm socket. ( a trick to putting the 2 nuts on,,,,, HOT GLUE them into the socket!!!! if you dont, you will drop them 124123152315234 times.
mastergrader007;1347914 said:
I take a piece of electrical tape put it half way into the socket and then it never drops
From the top, with extension + universal + deep 12mm socket on another extension AFTER pulling the dipstick as suggested. BE SURE TO PUT A PIECE OF SHOP TOWEL in the dipstick hole to keep DEBRIS from getting in!
Be mindful NOT to bend the hard lines (ESPECIALLY the feed line) once loose or off the car block, as they are a PAIN to line up (ESPECIALLY the feed line) banjo w/bolt! (DON'T TIGHTEN the banjo bolt on reassembly without making ABSOLUTELY SURE the copper washers are IN PLACE on both inside/outside of banjo!)
PS: Be sure to CLEAN CAREFULLY around the banjo feed line SEAT before torquing down. You don't want to damage that surface, either!
G/L!
BTW, DON'T DISASSEMBLE the hard lines from the turbo, unless you MUST clean/replace gaskets, etc... the PUT THEM BACK ON while off the car... and DON'T BEND THEM (already said) out of position, or you WILL regret it! (They are also prone to CRACK in the accordion segment if flexed much...)
I also PULL the support brace away from the turbo and against the engine well wall for better access.
-crisp
Be mindful NOT to bend the hard lines (ESPECIALLY the feed line) once loose or off the car block, as they are a PAIN to line up (ESPECIALLY the feed line) banjo w/bolt! (DON'T TIGHTEN the banjo bolt on reassembly without making ABSOLUTELY SURE the copper washers are IN PLACE on both inside/outside of banjo!)
PS: Be sure to CLEAN CAREFULLY around the banjo feed line SEAT before torquing down. You don't want to damage that surface, either!
G/L!
BTW, DON'T DISASSEMBLE the hard lines from the turbo, unless you MUST clean/replace gaskets, etc... the PUT THEM BACK ON while off the car... and DON'T BEND THEM (already said) out of position, or you WILL regret it! (They are also prone to CRACK in the accordion segment if flexed much...)
I also PULL the support brace away from the turbo and against the engine well wall for better access.
-crisp
92TealSupra;1347922 said:I take a piece of electrical tape put it half way into the socket and then it never drops
I chew some gum, and stick a little piece in the socket. Works great, tastes even better. :icon_bigg d
-AM3
A small rare earth magnet inside the socket. Or just buy the magnetic inserts sold for the purpose...
Probably neodymium. I've got one from a disc drive stuck on my oil pan. Be careful with those things
I suggest something a bit smaller for socket use although the inserts made for the job are cheap. Around 10 bux for a set.
I suggest something a bit smaller for socket use although the inserts made for the job are cheap. Around 10 bux for a set.
thanks for all the help. it wasnt that bad the second time around (did hg last year). i used some rtv sealant in the socket to hold nut worked good. flex tube was from another car and was bent so that was fun still have to do supply line in the morning but turbo and oil return are bolted up. the turbo shaft moved like 1/4 inch up and down i was surprised it didnt make noise all the time just once and a while. hopefully this wont leak and turbo is good had very little play in the shaft. again thanks for all the input:biglaugh::biglaugh::icon_bigg
i went from the bottom of the car and they seemed pretty easy to get with some extensions and a swivel.
jetjock;1348109 said:Probably neodymium. I've got one from a disc drive stuck on my oil pan. Be careful with those things
I suggest something a bit smaller for socket use although the inserts made for the job are cheap. Around 10 bux for a set.
Most likely. That's a pretty good idea, likely to be much more worth while than a magnetic drain plug. (though, the drain plug you can clean off easily)
Oh, I learned to be careful with them when I was about 15yrs old. If improperly handled, they really hurt! LOL.
I agree, mine are way too big to use in a socket. I was just stating that I had some.
The socket inserts are on my long, long list of tools to get. One day...