Another "car wont start"

[PimpiNJ253]

ok please help me if u can.... I go to crank my car and it turns over just fine but doesnt start. I searched for threads but none like mine. do i got to get something to see what codes she is throwin or is there lil home remedies?


thankyou:cry:

 

[NewWestSupras]

check the fuse/relay on the passenger's side kick panel. You have to pull the plastic cover to get to it. Mine was dislodged and it was the same thing. gl

 

[PimpiNJ253]

well nothing was lose but i got er to start????? off to school... thankyou!!!

 

[JMDigital]

Unplug the CPS wire and re connect. Thats what mine did , I finally cut the connector and wired it together

 

[PimpiNJ253]

well the other day it died while i was idling down a big hill. i tried to start it while coasting and it wouldnt. Then i tried to compression start it, still wouldnt. I pulled into a wendys parkinglot and tried to start then it started after a few mins, ran like shit tho. then i turned it off thinkin it needed oil because i herd something in the motor. i checked oil.... it was very full. Then i started it again, it ran excellent. I am going to get a full tuneup verysoon. I bought Royal purple 10w-30 oil, K&N oil filter, bosch copper internal sparkplugs, synthetic lucas oil stabilizer, and sparkplug wires. would this tuneup fix my problems? Thankyou for your help guys.

 

[JMDigital]

After reading that it sounds even more like the CPS connector. I had that same problem it would stall , then start and run like crap, then run fine for days. Then all over again. After cutting the connector that fixed it forever. I know its not the best fix but I dont stall anymore. I looked for a few days for a connector I could get. I gave up after a few days tho.

 

[johnathan1]

Hard-wire your CPS into the harness...that is the only option other than buying a new engine wiring harness from Toyota.

Mine did exactly what you are talking about...the car should have stored a code 12...check them...also, when it happens again (it will) wiggle the CPS wires, and I bet it will start right up.

 

[JMDigital]

Ok, when you do. Do it 1 wire at a time. They dont seem to match after the connector is gone (well myne did not) I would not want to know what happens if you get them crossed.

 

[PimpiNJ253]

eh.... i dont really wanna CUT anything... but when i checked under the kickplate and wiggled the wires... it started up! A lil hesitant at first and a lil squeal... but she started. ran fine ever since. wonder what tomarrow mornign has in store :3d_frown:

 

[johnathan1]

It will be okay, just bypass the connector, and hard-wire each wire, one at a time. Use some crimp-on butt connectors. I like to slide the metal piece out of the plastic shielding, and cover them with heat shrink, or electrical tape, once they have been crimped. It'll take you like ten minutes, and you won't have any trouble starting the car or having it stall anymore!

[Starsky & Hutch voice] C'mon, DO it...C'mon...C'mon DO IT! :stickpoke:

 

[PimpiNJ253]

well ofcourse it was worse today... didnt start up until AFTER school and work. im dropping it off at the shop tonight and have some results in tomarrow... we'll see

 

[johnathan1]

Ummm....why waste money on a shop??? CHECK YOUR CODES and you will know what is wrong with your car....

It was a coincidence that it started after you wiggled the wires under the passenger kick panel...if the starter relay (the only thing down there that's related) were bad, it wouldn't crank...and how do you explain the car stalling???? Check your codes!!! I am willing to bet that your CPS wires, connector are at fault.

 

[smagnotta]

I had the same problem, bad CPS electronics. You just need a multimeter and check the TSRM on the Net here and you can check any part related to starting. The guys here are correct about the CPS wiring on the harness side - it is just a matter of time.

Just to let you know since you dropped it off at a shop, that a new CPS is $430 and a new igniter is $350 = $$

Next time, buy a multimeter, check the TSRM web site, and if needed buy a working used part off a member or eBay. I got the CPS and Igniter for $150 total and they both work.

http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

How to check for codes (if you have the Super Monitor this is not needed by the way) :

Open the hood and locate the diagnostic connector. Is it next to the battery and can be seen in the figure to the right. You will want to connect terminals E1 and TE1. I used a big paper clip, which I leave in the back of my car, and it is actually 'sprung' against the connector lid to add some pressure for a better connection.

After you do this start your car. The check engine light should now be blinking. If it is continuous quick blinking then you are fine there are no error codes, otherwise you have to count the blinks. Each set of blinks will represent one digit with a longer pause to separate digits. There may be more than one code present, but it is on a continuous loop. For example if you saw blink...blink.......blink...blink...blink...blink....... that would be a code 24. After you are done you can clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse (15A) in the fuse block right next to the diagnostic connector for 30 seconds or more, make sure the engine is off.