Amsoil Bypass Filter Install

[CyFi6]

Just thought I would post up some pics of the Amsoil bypass kit I just installed tonight. Ended up splurging on the Amsoil kit because it came with a lot of useful quality fittings, as well as a decent length of hose. Bought the oil cap swivel adapter separate, makes it easy to remove the cap. Filter was damn expensive though, anybody have any alternative spin on bypass filters?

Only place I could find for the rather large filter was down under the right hand side headlight, and it fit pretty nice! If I didn't already have my power steering reservoir relocated by the charcoal canister i would have put it there.

I did an oil analysis on my last oil change, and I will do another again on the next, and I will post up any improvements. Right now I am running Valvoline 5w30 full synthetic.

 

[jetjock]

So...you'll put on a bypass but refuse to run an oil cooler?

As a long time user of side stream filtration I have to say you picked the worst one from a cost and operating standpoint but it'll do a good job. I wouldn't have returned through the oil cap either but that's just me. Then there's that whole Scamsoil MLM thing.

That filter (iirc they come in two sizes) has decent capacity. Good thing because due to the thread as far as I know alternate ones don't exist. Even if they came in that thread size most of the other bypass spin-ons I've seen are actually surface filters with a simple flow restriction orifice.

I've heard of people using hydraulic filters (some have that large thread) but in spite of their micron rating none will ever equal a true depth filter. They're better used in full flow applications on trannys and PS systems. That means you're likely stuck buying what you have but at least you've made Al and his minions happy...

 

[CyFi6]

So...you'll put on a bypass but refuse to run an oil cooler?

LOL. I do run one, but that doesn't stop me from questioning it's ability

As a long time user of side stream filtration I have to say you picked the worst one from a cost and operating standpoint but it'll do a good job. I wouldn't have returned through the oil cap either but that's just me. Then there's that whole Scamsoil MLM thing.

That filter (iirc they come in two sizes) has decent capacity. Good thing because due to the thread as far as I know alternate ones don't exist. Even if they came in that thread size most of the other bypass spin-ons I've seen are actually surface filters with a simple flow restriction orifice.

I've heard of people using hydraulic filters (some have that large thread) but in spite of their micron rating none will ever equal a true depth filter. They're better used in full flow applications on trannys and PS systems. That means you're likely stuck buying what you have but at least you've made Al and his minions happy...

Wasn't too hot on the messy TP style. I guess the oil analysis results will tell me if any of it was worth it.

 

[jetjock]

Yeah, TP is messy. Plus they recently went and shaved 1/2" of length off the best rolls. Bastards. I hate that shrinking product crap. Seems to be everywhere these days.

If you really want to know how it's working I suggest paying for particle counts on your next analysis. Anyway, I applaud your use of this thing even if I am slightly amused by an expensive depth filter installed alongside a K&N in a desert environment

 

[CyFi6]

I was also reading that they need to be changed frequently because they begin to deteriorate, or form a "channel" for the oil to flow, reducing its effectiveness. Not too familiar with the particle count testing, I will have to look into that a little more.

And in my defense, from all the info I have been able to find, the Apexi dryflow filter seems to be the best, filtering wise, out of all the open element style filters. Anyways, maybe the bypass can help negate some of the effects of having a filter that does not filter as well as stock.

 

[Poodles]

Yeah, TP is messy. Plus they recently went and shaved 1/2" of length off the best rolls. Bastards. I hate that shrinking product crap. Seems to be everywhere these days.

If you really want to know how it's working I suggest paying for particle counts on your next analysis. Anyway, I applaud your use of this thing even if I am slightly amused by an expensive depth filter installed alongside a K&N in a desert environment

I was also reading that they need to be changed frequently because they begin to deteriorate, or form a "channel" for the oil to flow, reducing its effectiveness. Not too familiar with the particle count testing, I will have to look into that a little more.

And in my defense, from all the info I have been able to find, the Apexi dryflow filter seems to be the best, filtering wise, out of all the open element style filters. Anyways, maybe the bypass can help negate some of the effects of having a filter that does not filter as well as stock.

Was about to correct him, but I see you did it. The Apexi is a paper fiber filter, and not washable. It looks like a K&N though.

An I honestly wouldn't have returned it to the oil cap, looks rigged.

 

[CyFi6]

An I honestly wouldn't have returned it to the oil cap, looks rigged.

Not too concerned about the looks of it, it provides and excellent place to take an oil sample. I may in the future go for a drain via valve cover or 3rd cyl head gasket allen bolt and add a smapling valve, but for now this will do.

 

[jetjock]

I stand corrected on the filter. It does look like a K&N.

 

[shaeff]

Not the route I'd have taken, but I suppose it does the job. I try to steer clear of all fittings with sharp 90° bends. Smooth radius bends are what you want.

 

[Nick M]

You are long past the point, but you could have pieced it together without a kit for less money.

 

[NCSUPRA]

I use the TP style (Frantz) and i never have a mess or channeling and it does not deteriorate. This is om my Toyota T100 The oil always looks new.
It is suppose to filter to .2 micron, don't know if thats true or not. I've never done a UOA.

 

[jetjock]

Imo it's still messier than a spin-on but I agree about channeling. I think it's mostly a myth born of user error. As long as the roll is tightly wound and compressed by the housing it won't channel. I've used MotorGuards for years on several different cars and have never seen evidence of it.

 

[CyFi6]

How long do you guys go on a roll of TP?

Does anyone use a Frantz on the Supra? Does it actually fit anywhere?

 

[NCSUPRA]

I go 4000 on a roll. I use the store bought TP (scotts 1000) I machined a sleeve to fit the housing and TP roll id tight. I change it 3 times a year.
Im running syn. oil and running 1 year oci. I hope by adding one qt per filter change im keeping the add. pack up to snuff. i guess i need to do
a UOA at a oil change.

Im going to add a TP filter to my supra after my swap. I'll find somewhere to put it.

 

[jetjock]

What he said. 3500-4000 per roll, Scotts 1000, 1 year OCI. I also machined new parts for the newer MG housing but the nylon parts that come with it will work. The other one I have is an early model that was made specifically for oil.

Dunno about the Frantz but the MG fits well where the evap cannister goes. Can even use the same bracket by flipping it over. And make-up oil does replenish the additive package....there have been studies that prove it beyond any doubt.