kwnate said:
Yep, I didn't remember that I have a FFI now. LOL.:icon_bigg
I still need to address my oil cooler situation. Right now, all I have is the stock set up & Allan would blow a gasket as he did in your build thread. :biglaugh:
Am I too well hung, do i hang too low.....
- Thread starter rakkasan
- Start date
Yep, I didn't remember that I have a FFI now. LOL.:icon_bigg
I still need to address my oil cooler situation. Right now, all I have is the stock set up & Allan would blow a gasket as he did in your build thread. :biglaugh:
tissimo said:
it's an inch above the bumper cover & about 2 1/2" above the cross member. Still higher?
tissimo said:
I appreciate the advice, really. Let me ask you this, how high above the bottom of you bumper cover does the bottom of you IC sit?
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Mine sits about a quarter inch above the bottom of the tow hooks. You'd have to smash the lip off and maybe part of the nose to hit it. Im not worried as I don't run my car into things.
I welded a piece of angle iron to bottom of my tow hooks so the point faced down \/ and built a mount for the IC to sit on. This gives the IC a solid mount with some curb/floorjack protection underneath.
Also gave me a nice line to connect the custom undercover..
Edit: I hit a racoon on accident a few weeks ago and I am sure I would have killed my IC if I did not have the angle iron installed.
Also gave me a nice line to connect the custom undercover..
Edit: I hit a racoon on accident a few weeks ago and I am sure I would have killed my IC if I did not have the angle iron installed.
I'll be mounting my oil and trans cooler between the A/C and radiator...
and if you can fit the undertray back on its not to low as IJ said
See my thread.. it blew ages ago!
and if you can fit the undertray back on its not to low as IJ said
rakkasan said:
See my thread.. it blew ages ago!
the best set up you can do is match the out lets of the ic to the mouth of the car cause that will be the hottest point of a ic
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I put the oil cooler on top of the FMIC.
Relocated the coolant tank between the battery and radiator. (Stock bracket fits actually with some simple bends, and then bolts up to the electric fan shroud, and bolts into existing brackets for the fuse box on the back side of the battery, like Toyota planned it that way...
Note that you have to use a smaller battery which is no problem so far, and you have to add some wire to your coolant sensor in the coolant tank as the wire harness is too short. It looks tight there, but everything fits excellent this way, and it get's the coolant tank out of the airflow path, so your not blocking anything.
That being said, you can't see the stock oil cooler I'm using to run my PS system through anymore. I just used the stock oil cooler hard line that runs under the lower tie bar on the core support, and then attached the stock cooler via zip ties and one left over center support point that I've also attached the front AC fan to. There is no more center support on my car, but I've cut up what was left of it, and made a new support that tied the header panel to the core support upper tie bar.
I moved the PS tank to the other side of the radiator, and attached it to the upper tie bar, and a made a simple bracket to the right frame rail, and it's bolted to the hole/nut that used to hold down the clamp for the PS lines that ran there stock. (Now the low pressure return line comes out of the PS rack, goes from the stock hard line to the "stock" oil cooler hard line, through that oil cooler and then back via the hard line to a stainless hose dumping it into the PS tank. A stainless hose from that tank feeds the PS pump for the trip back around again... LOL)
With all of these "coolers" in the way of the radiator, the FMIC, Oil cooler, and PS cooler plus the AC condensor and fans, I started to overheat in traffic at idle when not moving. My old 150k fan clutch had given up and it would freewheel when hot. A replacement clutch from NAPA cured this problem, and now my car is cool as a cucumber in traffic I'd reccomend if your rebuilding your motor, while it's easy to replace, get a new fan clutch. They are less than 65.00 from NAPA, and work great.
Relocated the coolant tank between the battery and radiator. (Stock bracket fits actually with some simple bends, and then bolts up to the electric fan shroud, and bolts into existing brackets for the fuse box on the back side of the battery, like Toyota planned it that way...
Note that you have to use a smaller battery which is no problem so far, and you have to add some wire to your coolant sensor in the coolant tank as the wire harness is too short. It looks tight there, but everything fits excellent this way, and it get's the coolant tank out of the airflow path, so your not blocking anything.
That being said, you can't see the stock oil cooler I'm using to run my PS system through anymore. I just used the stock oil cooler hard line that runs under the lower tie bar on the core support, and then attached the stock cooler via zip ties and one left over center support point that I've also attached the front AC fan to. There is no more center support on my car, but I've cut up what was left of it, and made a new support that tied the header panel to the core support upper tie bar.
I moved the PS tank to the other side of the radiator, and attached it to the upper tie bar, and a made a simple bracket to the right frame rail, and it's bolted to the hole/nut that used to hold down the clamp for the PS lines that ran there stock. (Now the low pressure return line comes out of the PS rack, goes from the stock hard line to the "stock" oil cooler hard line, through that oil cooler and then back via the hard line to a stainless hose dumping it into the PS tank. A stainless hose from that tank feeds the PS pump for the trip back around again... LOL)
With all of these "coolers" in the way of the radiator, the FMIC, Oil cooler, and PS cooler plus the AC condensor and fans, I started to overheat in traffic at idle when not moving. My old 150k fan clutch had given up and it would freewheel when hot. A replacement clutch from NAPA cured this problem, and now my car is cool as a cucumber in traffic
I'd reccomend if your rebuilding your motor, while it's easy to replace, get a new fan clutch. They are less than 65.00 from NAPA, and work great.
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Adjuster said:I put the oil cooler on top of the FMIC.
Cool, I found the location that I'm going to use. Thanks Adjuster! :icon_bigg
rakkasan said:
Yeah...I thought I was going to put mine there too....that's an RX-7 oil cooler. I put my powersteering cooler there instead. The RX-7 cooler has an internal thermostat to regulate to boot. Ended up going with the one I showed you earlier though.
It's a pretty simple set-up Mark...stock oil housing going to the cooler with the return to the pan. Got a PermaCool oil relocator running to the other side forward of the pass wheel with a bigger filter (Wix 51342). The TruCool coolers is self regulating due to it's design, but after reading some of IJ's posts, I'm thinking about adding a thermostat.
BTW...I have an RX-7 cooler just like adjuster's that I never used that is in excellent shape. If you're interested in it, PM me.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
If you go with the RX7 cooler, it's easy to place the way I have it since both lines terminate on the end near the engine/filter etc.
The only thing I'd reccomend is hooking up your lines before you put the cooler in place. I ended up needing a few extra sets of hands to do this since mine is just tig welded to the FMIC end tanks at the mounting brackets. (I figured it would result in the least amount of thermal contact and heat transfer to the FMIC this way. If you have brackets that mount it to the header panel, or core support, contact with the FMIC could be avoided, but there is very little room left over to get everything to fit right, and support the hood latch.
The only thing I'd reccomend is hooking up your lines before you put the cooler in place. I ended up needing a few extra sets of hands to do this since mine is just tig welded to the FMIC end tanks at the mounting brackets. (I figured it would result in the least amount of thermal contact and heat transfer to the FMIC this way. If you have brackets that mount it to the header panel, or core support, contact with the FMIC could be avoided, but there is very little room left over to get everything to fit right, and support the hood latch.