I've been thinking about getting one from Suprasport.com. Would it be a good investment and what kind of difference it will make? I already have a lightweight flywheel from 935motorports and a stage 3 clutch. Thanks for any info.
Aluminum Driveshaft
- Thread starter AF1JZ
- Start date
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
My impression of aluminum d/s on my n/a
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29027
I made a thread on sf aswell it has some good info in it too
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29027
I made a thread on sf aswell it has some good info in it too
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
How much is the Jawsgear aluminum ds for a 91 with a r154/3.73 lsd. I can't get to www.jawsgear.com because my server for some reason blocked it. Thank.
Thank you. Are there any reviews for the Suprsport.com aluminum ds? I can get one from there for $480 shipped.
I know people with Aluminum drive shafts from Jawsgear, and would not go back.
I doubt shipping will be much more for a tried and true product.
I doubt shipping will be much more for a tried and true product.
From a performance standpoint, hell yes, Less rotating mass would obviously do some good!
But, The stock driveshaft was 2 pieces for a reason, One being comfort, From what i gather, this will vibrate a bit more, But hell, Performance > Comfort right?
But, The stock driveshaft was 2 pieces for a reason, One being comfort, From what i gather, this will vibrate a bit more, But hell, Performance > Comfort right?
Oh yea, definitly looking for performance. It's just getting tires that have minimal road noise yet having a full exhaust. If my money is right, I think I'm sold on the jawsgear driveshaft. Thanks HellsLegion.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Looks like I'll be ordering one. Only problem is that I'm deployed right now and can't make the measurements. I want to order it and have it to my home upon my return to I can tackle the rest of the 1jz swap and get it on the road.
If you are a 1jz R154, There is no need to worry. Jawsgear has MANY supras at their shop. The owner has a built 1JZ drag car, and his 2 employee's also own JZ supras!
He has the measurements for you! Maybe just give them a ring!
He has the measurements for you! Maybe just give them a ring!
IJ. said:
I honestly dunno :1zhelp: The rear end is from an 89' auto turbo. But, I haven't even driven the car yet. Still finishing up the 1jz swap. I'll probably just get up to speed fast (spirited driving). But, it will be a DD/road trip car.
Personally I'd get Jeff to make you a true 2 piece (lose the bonded rear section and keep the centre bearing and uni joint) but I'm biased against 1 piece shafts 
IJ. said:Personally I'd get Jeff to make you a true 2 piece (lose the bonded rear section and keep the centre bearing and uni joint) but I'm biased against 1 piece shafts
I'm kinda confused. Can you elaborate? This is a chunk of change I'm gonna spend. What kind advantage is the true 2 piece over a one piece aluminum and how much is a 2 piece? Thanks for the help.
There is a thing with driveshafts called "Critical Speed" and the longer a shaft is the lower it is, Uni Joints travel in a figure 8 NOT in true circles.
At certain shaft speeds you can get a harshness/vibration/harmonic effect that while annoying in the short term doesn't do any damage BUT for extended periods it can.
Short gears Low profile rubber and extended high speed running can place your car in this zone.
True 2 piece just means Jeff replaces the rear section of the tube that's an inner and outer bonded together with a single tube so it's lighter and keeps the Uni joints in phase whereas the bonded part can and does fail letting the Uni's become out of phase and vibrate.
At certain shaft speeds you can get a harshness/vibration/harmonic effect that while annoying in the short term doesn't do any damage BUT for extended periods it can.
Short gears Low profile rubber and extended high speed running can place your car in this zone.
True 2 piece just means Jeff replaces the rear section of the tube that's an inner and outer bonded together with a single tube so it's lighter and keeps the Uni joints in phase whereas the bonded part can and does fail letting the Uni's become out of phase and vibrate.