All of the studs that go into the side of the head ie: IM and EM studs, How to getout

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
IJ. said:
Wayne: LOL nah while the 2 nuts thing works I think it's nice having the correct tools for a job and in this case it's only $25 so not really worth not having em ;)

7m Fanatic's post rubbed me the wrong way like I was being foolish or a baller for spending the $.... :nono:

oh no, I whole heartedly agree with ya.. right tool for the right job!

But in a crunch or on a weekend when everything is close... two nuts work well together but I would definetly take a stud puller over the two nut deal anytime though! . :)
 

KMinAF

Old Man
Sep 15, 2006
291
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American Fork, UT
For the really, really bad ones, use one nut and one welder.

Although I have never tried it, I have heard that heating the stud and then melting wax onto the threads works wonders for loosening stuck threads
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Stud remover is the best way.
Two nuts is cheap, but a royal PITA to actually do this on a entire engine? Yep, 30.00 well spent on the right tool as IJ noted... :)

Here is my reccomendation.

Helicoil your exhaust manifold studs.
Change them to SAE sized/thread, and buy a good quality stainless steel design with locks. (Summit, ARP and others sell these for domestic applications, and they are cheap, and effective.)

7/16 is the size IIRC. (Ask Arron, I belive he sell's just what you need actually.)

The only place I have found that carries the right size, and thread pitch for the OEM studs, is either the dealer, or the local Ace Hardware store. (Neither Blowes or Home Despot had anything close in metric.)

Like I mentioned however, they all carry 7/16 sae studs, and even in stainless.... Slightly larger than your stock 10mm x 1.25 ones, and totally easy to source. (Plus, no more rust with stainless, and you can buy the locking design ones, and never have a loose manifold again...)