AJUSA HG or OEM HG?

[suprabad]

I would use the OEM headgasket. If you dont get the head resurfaced then inspect it and clean it very good.

I spent $40 to get mine resurfaced. I just had to remove the camshafts and reinstall them and torque down the caps to spec's.

Don't forget the lifters and shims...

 

[Bluechulappa]

Alright one more time i get what youre saying but

Did anyone note that i stated that my HEAD did NOT blow. Unless youre talking about me just from pulling it.

second i have to move this car soon i live in an apartment complex with no garage or space for this as is it, we cant have cars sitting for a certain ammount of time.

I missed the part that told everyone you are using a different head. Do you know 100% that head has never blown or overheated? You need to use the oem gasket as they have been improved somewhat since day one. Since you can't get anything machined. Clean the head and block as good as you can where the gasket will sit. Then use arp

 

[MK3.0dudeman]

I could see that you have no money.I'm in the same boat along with a lot of other car guys out there but come on man 40 bucks?I paid the same thing to get my ls head done.Also were did you get the money for a 20g turbo and all the other goodies.I mean if you know your spark plug hold was striped and you have a old car you need to fix the things wrong with it first and get a "what if" fund going for if ever anything ever breaks.

Also I would go with the oem h/g thats my .02 and it's your car so do what you want but if you ask and you get an answer you don't like don't fight with us because were all here to help each other and learn from each other not fight.

 

[JDMMA70]

I could see that you have no money.I'm in the same boat along with a lot of other car guys out there but come on man 40 bucks?I paid the same thing to get my ls head done.Also were did you get the money for a 20g turbo and all the other goodies.I mean if you know your spark plug hold was striped and you have a old car you need to fix the things wrong with it first and get a "what if" fund going for if ever anything ever breaks.

Also I would go with the oem h/g thats my .02 and it's your car so do what you want but if you ask and you get an answer you don't like don't fight with us because were all here to help each other and learn from each other not fight.

The 20G Turbo was put on the car by the previous owner and I didn't know the plug hole was stripped until 4 days ago. I bought the car for $3000. I had a what if fund but apparently it wasn't enough.

 

[IJ.]

All depends on how the head was unbolted as this will determine how bent it is.

 

[JDMMA70]

All depends on how the head was unbolted as this will determine how bent it is.

I unbolted it in sequence as per TSRM and then loosend and removed bolts in sequence.

 

[IJ.]

In sequence or in reverse sequence?

Hot or cold?

It's well worth spending the $$$ to have it checked for hardness and at least surfaced no matter which gasket you decided on.
(if it were me I'd go factory composite and make 100% sure not to let it detonate)

 

[JDMMA70]

In reverse sequence, in order to please these people ill find the money to have it cleaned, rebuilt, and machined. Now I have this feeling they will tell me to go cometic mhg as some of my friends on aim are telling me right now. Now what's the public of supramania have to say, Cometic with no block machining, or oem gasket.

 

[IJ.]

Inspect the deck carefully but 9 times out of 10 they fail for a MHG.

 

[Bluechulappa]

All depends on how the head was unbolted as this will determine how bent it is.

But it doesn't matter how jdmma70 unbolted his head as he is using a different head from another car. Right?

Just go OEM gasket dude since you cant get it all machined...

 

[CyFi6]

In reverse sequence, in order to please these people ill find the money to have it cleaned, rebuilt, and machined. Now I have this feeling they will tell me to go cometic mhg as some of my friends on aim are telling me right now. Now what's the public of supramania have to say, Cometic with no block machining, or oem gasket.

So now youre fixing your car to please us?:aigo:

 

[IJ.]

But it doesn't matter how jdmma70 unbolted his head as he is using a different head from another car. Right?

Just go OEM gasket dude since you cant get it all machined...

Yes which would worry me all the more as it's condition is unknown.

If his original head tests ok for hardness I'd helicoil the plug hole and reuse it.

 

[black89t]

this is my personal experence being that i have been in a situation where i needed my car asap. when i change my hg i check the block and it was fine (using a presicion straight edge). then i checked the head and it was warped .004'' which isn't horrible, but would have needed machine work. then i grabed my extra head of my rodknock motor. i couldn't even fit a .001 in there. also when i held a light behind it i saw no light. which is good (no gap). also it looked like it had been to the machine shop before by the condion of the surface and it had helicoiled exhaust studs. i used it and its been working great since march or feb not positive. no more missing coolent. 11psi all day felpro head set with arp bolts. i dd and drag race my car btw.

 

[Facime]

You dont have to do what the guys are saying, its just their recommendation over the internet. They cant see your head/block and therefore are giving the safest answer and what you SHOULD do in a perfect world. I hear you saying you are not living in a perfect world.

Try this, take both heads to a machine shop and ask them if they wouldnt mind taking a few minutes to check them for straightness. If you need to helicoil the straighter one then so be it, but if they say you dont need machining for straightness at least, then use that head.

Use the OEM toyota or Felpro (toyota gasket is made by felpro if Im not mistaken) and torque to 80lbs with ARP's.

Realize the whole time you are doing this you MAY end up doing it again. SOON. You may not. If your work is spot on and you get a bit of luck it may last you a year or two if you dont rag the car out too much. Hopefully it will last until you have a proper budget and a suitable workspace to do it right.


There, I think thats what you wanted to hear.

 

[IJ.]

#1 Hardness test 1st before you spend a single cent on a 7M head.....

 

[Quin]

You dont have to do what the guys are saying, its just their recommendation over the internet. They cant see your head/block and therefore are giving the safest answer and what you SHOULD do in a perfect world. I hear you saying you are not living in a perfect world.

Try this, take both heads to a machine shop and ask them if they wouldnt mind taking a few minutes to check them for straightness. If you need to helicoil the straighter one then so be it, but if they say you dont need machining for straightness at least, then use that head.

Use the OEM toyota or Felpro (toyota gasket is made by felpro if Im not mistaken) and torque to 80lbs with ARP's.

Realize the whole time you are doing this you MAY end up doing it again. SOON. You may not. If your work is spot on and you get a bit of luck it may last you a year or two if you dont rag the car out too much. Hopefully it will last until you have a proper budget and a suitable workspace to do it right.


There, I think thats what you wanted to hear.

It's 85ft/lbs with ARP studs, otherwise this is spot on.

 

[EOS]

"Inspect the deck carefully but 9 times out of 10 they fail for a MHG." (Quoted from IJ's post on page 3)

But, assuming the block is flat, what about lapping the block in-car to make SURE it's flat? You've talked about lapping the block to smooth it/get a mirror finish--albeit a block that's out of the car--and even pictured your lapping plate in posts. Don't get me wrong-I have the utmost respect for your knowledge, and I'm not trying to start anything at all, so please don't misinterpret my question...I'm just curious to know if, in your opinion, that would keep an in-car block that tests out as flat from screwing up with a Cometic HG...

 

[jdub]

and torque to 80lbs with ARP's.

It's 85ft/lbs with ARP studs, otherwise this is spot on.

Not quite right

ARP head bolts are 85 ft/lbs w/ moly for lube and 110 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. HOWEVER, ARP head bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs when used on an aluminum head (like the 7M).

ARP studs are 80 ft/lbs w/ moly and 120 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. There is no limiting provision for an aluminum head like there is for bolts.

If stock head bolts are used, you want to torque to 70-75 ft/lbs vs what's listed in the TSRM.

Inspect the deck carefully but 9 times out of 10 they fail for a MHG.

What Ian is referring to is head/block deck flatness per the TSRM and the RA (smoothness) spec for the MHG used...Cometic is 50RA, HKS is 30RA. If the block is not flat, no amount of lapping is going to straighten it...it must be machined. Same for the head...read the TSRM, it is very specific about the tolerance for this. If the block deck is flat the RA can be improved by lapping in the car, but it is a PITA...you must take steps to prevent lapping compound from getting in the oil and coolant channels.

#1 Hardness test 1st before you spend a single cent on a 7M head.....

This is the most important...that is unless you like wasting your hard earned $$$. An annealed head is useless.

 

[IJ.]

"Inspect the deck carefully but 9 times out of 10 they fail for a MHG." (Quoted from IJ's post on page 3)

But, assuming the block is flat, what about lapping the block in-car to make SURE it's flat? You've talked about lapping the block to smooth it/get a mirror finish--albeit a block that's out of the car--and even pictured your lapping plate in posts. Don't get me wrong-I have the utmost respect for your knowledge, and I'm not trying to start anything at all, so please don't misinterpret my question...I'm just curious to know if, in your opinion, that would keep an in-car block that tests out as flat from screwing up with a Cometic HG...

It's a personal choice thing but I'd NEVER lap a block in the car or even an assembled short block.

I'll spend 1>1.5 hours after lapping cleaning the block to make sure there are no traces of Lapping compound left anywhere.

Can't misinterpret smart questions