Air temperature Sensor - 1jz

[Ric]

Is this the cause of my revving problem?

yes

 

[OneJoeZee]

Ok. Thanks for the input, Ric.

I'll see what I can do.

That's odd. Moe said his wires broke off too, but it seems he was still able to drive the car although it was not running all as it should. His post said he didn't throw a CEL though... I have a CEL for the ATS and it's not even driveable past 2000. Strange

 

[Ken]

that's weird, mine drove fine without the sensor plugged in. or at least I thought it did, I didn't notice anything abnormal.

 

[Ric]

I had a cap blow on my ECU that wouldn't make it revv past 2000rpms now that I think about it. The car won't let the engine rev past that when it gets a CPS sensor failure (or thinks it has one). I'd fix that code tho, and see what happens. If it still does it.. call up jestr and send em your ecu and $50 bux.

 

[EvoLuTioN]

i think somebody told me that you should also check it, there's like a one way valve, so make sure it's still like that too

 

[Spaniard]

This is a very good idea. I'm sure the computer would be able to make it's calculations more effectively if it had better information like this.

I heard you need that sensor but here is the funny part.
You need it but it is positioned in a horrible spot and heat soaks and gives sucky ecu readings! it is more or less telling your ecu how hot the manifold & engine compartment is more then the actual air temp going into the engine and haves something to do with the jaggedness of the power band.

Best thing is to plug the hole off and move it right infront of the tb intake.

 

[Ric]

shit, i just might do that

 

[Ken]

:word8kn: that sounds like a really good idea.


Does anyone recommend using an air temp sensor other than the toyota one?

 

[OneJoeZee]

Jose helped me troubleshoot the problem and it's all good now. The ATS was not causing the rev problem. I had one of the body connectors and the hydrofan connector mixed up.

Everything's good now.

 

[mattjk]

uh, toyota calibrated ecu with the airtemp sensor in that location. are you people dense or what?

you want the sensor to read the temp in that area. as air enters the intake manifold, it's going to get heated by the temp of the manifold itself. Mounting it before the throttle body is going to give a false reading.

The sensor itself is insulated, if you bothered to remove it and take a look. Unlike the VPC temp sensor, which was not insulated, and did benefit from mounting in a cooler area.

I would recommend that people remove the sensor and give it a good cleaning. It's in an area where is catches alot of oil and dirt. Mine had a 1/4" mountain of dirt on it. LOL

 

[OneJoeZee]

I took mine off too and it was pretty grimey and dirty. Cleaned it up and put it back in. Don't know if it's working any better yet, since the wires broke...

 

[Ric]

I vote just get a resistance reading off it reading 120*, bypass it, and throw in a resistor from rat shack

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

uh, toyota calibrated ecu with the airtemp sensor in that location. are you people dense or what?

you want the sensor to read the temp in that area. as air enters the intake manifold, it's going to get heated by the temp of the manifold itself. Mounting it before the throttle body is going to give a false reading.

The sensor itself is insulated, if you bothered to remove it and take a look. Unlike the VPC temp sensor, which was not insulated, and did benefit from mounting in a cooler area.

I would recommend that people remove the sensor and give it a good cleaning. It's in an area where is catches alot of oil and dirt. Mine had a 1/4" mountain of dirt on it. LOL

I figured as much as well, but the information i gave is actualy to the credit of talking to arron over the phone @ Drift Motion he said he got way better performance from moving the sensor and going with a diffrent one.

I recomend talking to him but try not to bug the poor guy unless you buy something off of him.

It makes sense especialy since he have been working on these for years and after developing and perfecting stand alones and tunning improvements I am leaning more on arron on this.

After all not every thing toyota designed and did have been perfect over the years like (7M H.G. + head bolt torque specs) weaker powered less sporty cars after the real MR2 & last MKIV.

 

[Ken]

I figured as much as well, but the information i gave is actualy to the credit of talking to arron over the phone @ Drift Motion he said he got way better performance from moving the sensor and going with a diffrent one.

yeah, i figured using an entirely different air temp sensor in that location would be better, but were those results had using the stock ecu or a standalone?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

You should contact arron directly he reported it worked better in both cases I beleive? For sure i know he used a diffrent sensor in a diffrent location that the stinger recomends for its base calibration table.

The temp sensor adjust the over all fuel verry marginaly most of the tune is based on the map remember the diffrence between air that is 70° & 80° the ecu will maybe adjust the fuel 2-3% if that.
A bad or dirty MAP sensor can render your car almost useless over 90% of the tune is based on that sensor primarly.

I guess the way he explained is he saw diffrent dyno readings based on if the car heat soaked. Even though the chamber air temps are roughly the same they were not proportional to the increase in air temps but more reflected by the temp of the engine itself. He told me once he moved the temp sensor to the plenum input instead of inside the plenum he got smoother curves on the dyno.