Air induction question

[ryansmith]

Hi, unaware if this has been posted before but, what options are there for the 7mge air induction wise? (piping,pod filters,brands) and points on where to mount the air flow meter or if it's needed at all and I will have issues with the computer.

I contacted K&N but they never got back to me on an N/A one of these kits...

http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intakes.htm

Hopefully the link works, any help appreciated

 

[suprageezer]

Well if you think about it, increased horsepower by bolting on an aftermarket air cleaner can mean one of two things, one our cars engineers were idiots which we already know they we not, or more air is getting through a K&N, which means very fine harmful dirt particles are too. If you visit the website called Bitog, or Bob is the Oil Guy, you'll find a where a test was performed using various are filters by placing white cotton gauze inside the filters to catch anything that was getting through the filter media. If I remember right the K&N made the gauze very dirty which meant tons of fine particles were getting past the filter media itself. I prefer Wix myself, and believe most folks here would agree.

 

[BrandonW]

this
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

 

[suprageezer]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

 

[jetjock]

The website for the mother of all air filter tests is no longer around but it's reproduced here:

http://tinyurl.com/96uonnu

 

[Supracentral]

For bolt on "plug & play" style aftermarket filters themselves, this article is old but pretty much covers the current offerings:

http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/content/induction-kit-review/

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Something I was curious as to, if you were to route the filter out of the engine bay above the fog lights (as opposed to in the engine bay where most of these kits are located) would it make any significant difference in IAT's?

 

[f00g00]

There is a stock replacement by k&n that I tried for about a year. I had a power steering leak which separated the base so it didn't seat properly after that. Then I went to a conical filter with a Universal adapter that mounts to the front of the afm.
That combined with the pacesetter headers made for a lot of noise and hardly any gain.
So happy I went 1J.
There are pre filters you can put on the aftermarket ones also.

 

[Typhoon]

The stock filter outflows the stock AFM and already is cold air induction. Leave it alone and waste money on other bling.

 

[suprarx7nut]

The stock filter outflows the stock AFM and already is cold air induction. Leave it alone and waste money on other bling.

Bingo.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

For bolt on "plug & play" style aftermarket filters themselves, this article is old but pretty much covers the current offerings:

http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/content/induction-kit-review/

this
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Can we stop spreading this around the internet please? There's no way any brand can have both the best filtration AND flow. You trade one for the other.

The website for the mother of all air filter tests is no longer around but it's reproduced here:

http://tinyurl.com/96uonnu

Now this is good hard science. I'm convinced that someone had some heavy bias towards Apexi in the earlier article, perhaps they worked there, who knows. I dont remember where it is, but that test was completely debunked, maybe on Bitog. I'll see if I can find it

EDIT: Not the one I was looking for, but a good read. This article shows that a clogged intake filter will make your car slower, but not necessarily get worse mileage: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf

 

[suprarx7nut]

Can we stop spreading this around the internet please? There's no way any brand can have both the best filtration AND flow. You trade one for the other.

Now this is good hard science. I'm convinced that someone had some heavy bias towards Apexi in the earlier article, perhaps they worked there, who knows. I dont remember where it is, but that test was completely debunked, maybe on Bitog. I'll see if I can find it

EDIT: Not the one I was looking for, but a good read. This article shows that a clogged intake filter will make your car slower, but not necessarily get worse mileage: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf

Uh... You certainly can have better filtration and flow. You're over simplifying this waay too much.

As an exaggeration, picture one piece of 8x11 paper. Now poke one, single pencil hole through it. That's poor flow and filtration. Now, picture the same size paper with billions of fine holes all sized too small to easily see. Better filtration AND better flow.

Also, you must consider media surface area, depth, wet, dry, etc...

Stop spreading knowledge around? No way!

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

 

[te72]

The website for the mother of all air filter tests is no longer around but it's reproduced here:

http://tinyurl.com/96uonnu

So, what I took from that is that if your car is relatively stock, stick with stock style filters, but this all goes out the door when you slap that big single on the car and want to suck in small creatures along with the air it pulls in... am I close to the point?

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

Uh... You certainly can have better filtration and flow. You're over simplifying this waay too much.

As an exaggeration, picture one piece of 8x11 paper. Now poke one, single pencil hole through it. That's poor flow and filtration. Now, picture the same size paper with billions of fine holes all sized too small to easily see. Better filtration AND better flow.

Also, you must consider media surface area, depth, wet, dry, etc...

Stop spreading knowledge around? No way!

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

The REAL tests that I have seen have shown that among the same style filter, it basically comes down to that. It's certainly different from a flat panel style, but otherwise among like style/type filters, I believe the most difference you'll see is with dry vs. wet, and IMO dry is the way to go for the most part. Easier maintenance, dont have to worry about over-oiling, etc.

Spreading knowledge is what makes this the best time on earth, but spreading bad info doesnt help. If you can prove me wrong, by all means, I'd like that actually. I'd like to find this "ultimate filter" that flows the best AND filters at least near the best. It just doesnt add up.

 

[MPR]

The stock 7m air box may be drawing cool air, but as soon as it passes through the giant heat-soaking intake resonator, it heats up the air inside. However, at WOT where IAT's matter most, the air is passing through very quickly and the heat transfer to the air passing through is reduced. I understand that. There is still heat transfer taking place though.

What I ended up doing was replacing the intake resonator and the rubber bend right before the throttle body with an aluminum pipe with a much more gentle bend. I heat wrapped the pipe and have felt, first-hand, that the intake pipe stays much cooler. With the stock intake piping/resonator, I couldn't even touch it without being burned after a normal drive, where as now I can put my hand on the under side of the pipe facing the exhaust manifold and it's merely warm at most after a spirited drive.

I also replaced the stock filter with an oem replacement from K&N in the stock air box. I cut the front portion of the air box out, mainly so I could hear the intake (was just too quiet for me with the stock setup ), but I did so in a way that it retains it's function as a heat shield from the rest of the engine bay and still draws the cool air entering the grille/front bumper. The picture below is before I had replaced the stock air filter (which was quite dirty and needed to be replaced anyways).

This combination I found improved throttle response and performance throughout the rpm range (nothing crazy, but was noticeable) and even cured several issues my engine had with rough warm/hot-idle and warm/hot-starts. It now starts and idles perfectly.

I attribute the improvements mainly to lower air intake temps (from the heat wrap) and the less restrictive bend just before the throttle body.

No I don't think the engineers who develop stock intakes are idiots. But they do have to design components to certain specifications and parameters (designed for ease of manufacturing and must keep the intake noise quiet etc...). They did a good job with the stock setup as it is a true cold air intake. But it still suffers heat soak with the intake piping running right over the hot exhaust side. It's not perfect and there is always room for improvement (to a point).


Just my 2 cents.

 

[MPR]

Just to add to my previous post...

The stock intake is fine for most people and changing it will yield minimal gains. I did what I did because I'm a bit of an engineering geek and can't leave well enough alone. lol. Especially when I know I can improve something, even if its just a small improvement.