air flow meter

[jessemkiiis]

This happened to me, after 3 afms i pulled my cps. it had almost no resistance when spun.
I replaced it and set my timing. it was comboed with some other issues. i didnt have a cel for the cps though. i would remove it a visually inspect.

my symptoms were:
hard start
would die under heavy throttle
would only rev to 2maybe 3k then cut
would pull its weight at idle but bog under a load
smooth idle but rough shaky rev.

 

[grimreaper]

that is NOT how you test a CPS. There is nothing to resist spinning on the cps. If the air gaps are correct it should spin easily.

The tsrm only shows how to test the air temp sensor on the afm housing. Not the actual airflow signal itself. Search my user name, Ive reiterated jetjocks testing methods several times before.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

that is NOT how you test a CPS. There is nothing to resist spinning on the cps. If the air gaps are correct it should spin easily.

The tsrm only shows how to test the air temp sensor on the afm housing. Not the actual airflow signal itself. Search my user name, Ive reiterated jetjocks testing methods several times before.

I believe this was reference to the resistance of the coils inside the CPS, Though the resistance is measured as a static state with no rotational measure defined.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=16

Steve, How do you expect someone to diagnose a car without actually looking at it. You say you have had a bad AFM before and it didnt cause as much of a problem as you have now. Maybe the AFM you have now is worse.

When AFM's die they dont just stop working all the time, they deliver improper readings especially when they get fucked up from cleaning or something else. The reflective foil in the AFM gets a film or haze on it witch in turn causes it to send erroneous air speed signals to the TCCS causing the air flow calculation to be tainted.

Dont blame this website for not fixing your car for you. There is a lot of information and people willing to help brainstorm but your on your own for wrenching.

Everyone, The help you get is directly proportional to the details you provide and the validity of your statements.

OP, You said in your first post the AFM ohm'd within spec, that you soldered it, and that you thought soldering it would fix it because it read out of spec. You also eluded to the fact that the AFM was cleaned.

Clarify please?

Try unplugging the AFM and running the engine, Note any difference to the condition and post the difference. Also check for codes after running with the AFM unplugged. you should receive codes, 24, and 31.

As of now my guess is bad AFM.

 

[supraman317]

same exact symptoms as was stated by thread starter of this thread. Coil packs and connections good, CPS good, igniter good, plugs good, fuel filter good, IC pipes good, TPS is good, Idles fine but car shakes. will rev up to about 3K actually but will cut out and bog and won't go past 3k under a load but while out of gear it will rev to 6500 rpm but the reving is a lil ruff and slow. My afm is actually blown but I've had a blown afm and I just bogged but ran rich... point on that is that It ran well enough to go on the freeway and now it can't even get out of the parking lot Ask for more details specific of what you need to know cuz I can't remember of the top of my head.

sounds like it could be a fuel pump if it wont move or will hardly move under load

 

[jessemkiiis]

that is NOT how you test a CPS. There is nothing to resist spinning on the cps. If the air gaps are correct it should spin easily.

The tsrm only shows how to test the air temp sensor on the afm housing. Not the actual airflow signal itself. Search my user name, Ive reiterated jetjocks testing methods several times before.

how about you stop being a giant douche, did i say thats how u test it?
no I didnt. there was zero resistance of the internal coils compared to the one off my parts car. Thats what made me suspicious. Im trying to help the op by sharing my experience.

 

[BoostedRunner87]

okay when my car runs the check engine light is on. it is very hard to start after many attempts it will idle. after idling it for a while(when it gets warm) you can slowly rev it to between 2k and 3k rpms. if you hit the gas hard it dies. if you rev it too high it dies. it sounds like a fuel cut. my mass air flow is bad i think i just want to make sure though. i checked the codes(thanks for helping me i grew up working on chevys) and it blinks once, short pause, then blinks again. in the TSRM it says that that is what it should read. but then why is my check engine light on? i took out my blow off valve and put it back to stock recirculating valve.

thanks, rICK

i am having the exact same symptoms on my 7mgte. i have tried three different afm's with no fix. i'm lost as to what to do next with mine. what do you mean by "that is what it said it should read"? To me that sounds like you have a code 11, which is a problem with the ecu.

 

[grimreaper]

how about you stop being a giant douche, did i say thats how u test it?
no I didnt. there was zero resistance of the internal coils compared to the one off my parts car. Thats what made me suspicious. Im trying to help the op by sharing my experience.

Nobody called you names. Leave the attitude in grade school.

The advice you gave on how you figured your cps was bad is just BAD ADVICE. This is not what i would want to search and find when looking for help in say a year or two. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=16

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

sounds like it could be a fuel pump if it wont move or will hardly move under load

yeah maybe after all the Fuel pump is 20 years old and its got 317K miles on it along with the rest of the car.