I had just completed my swap today and went to start up my car and it cranks but it seems there there is no fuel being sent into the cylinders. I didnt mess with anything in the fuel system besides changing the fuel filter. I left the injectors, cold start, and fuel pressure regulator from the new motor on. Has anyone run into similar problems? This is my last step and I cant wait to get my supra back!
After JDM 7MGE swap, no fuel (new pics added)
- Thread starter Tae361
- Start date
AJ'S 88NA;1094852 said:
i'll keep that in mind when i go back at it tomorrow, my first swap so put in alot of time already. there is also a circular connector near the battery that i cannot find a place for, i'm not sure if it is just a empty connector on the harness or if its actually for something as i dont remember removing it at all, especially since i remembered every connector on the harness and that one pops out of nowhere.
Unfortunately its pretty hard to take pics when i broke my camera dropping it into my engine bay a while back, but I am looking at my car right now and I had confirmed from another person that I did hook the ground to the starter instead of the intake manifold. The thing is there is a few different ground wires, white and brown. Do any connect to the starter or do they all go on the intake manifold? I could'nt find anthing in the TSRM that says to ground to anything but the two fenders and intake manifold.
Nice job 
Fwiw wire coloring in the car (all Toyotas in fact) isn't random. It follows a specific coding and priority system. Once learned you can look at a wire anywhere in the car and know what it does right down to the system involved.
Fwiw wire coloring in the car (all Toyotas in fact) isn't random. It follows a specific coding and priority system. Once learned you can look at a wire anywhere in the car and know what it does right down to the system involved.
i am looking for the place to ground the 3 brown wires. the two whites i grounded to the frame, but i can't find a spot on the intake manifold(considering) its all alluminum. is there a specific spot that i'm not seeing or can they be anywhere? i tried on the tb but i never remember seeing a ground there.
On the GTE there's a spot on the lower manifold towards the rear. Dunno on the GE so you'll have to wait for one of those guys to chime in if you want to know for sure. I'll say this though: the brown wires are associated with ECU grounding so wherever you put them has to be a solid ground. They're also the only grounds on the car that aren't redundant. Because of that I ground not only at the stock location but also to the main battery ground on the fender.
some pics of my old crank shaft, shot bearing yay!
now for the important stuff..
the first picture is of this negative line(what to?) i found that when i connected it to the negative side of the battery... (which i marked negative on the cable when i removed it) it ended up frying the wire in the second picture (also shown in the first picture in the fuse box. I'm not quite sure what this cable goes as it runs through the harness and past the fuse box or maybe in the fuse box?
The wire in the second picture was a link between two wires(black and white) that can be seen in the third picture, again more wires i have no idea what they are.
I bought a fusible link (16guage) to try to repair the link the second picture and can be found in picture 4.
Lastly the two sets of ground cables ughh... I found a spot on the bottom of the lower intake manifold to bolt them to. On the USDM motor that i took out, these two sets were connected into one solid ground. I want to double ground them as someone mentioned before and was wondering what gauge cable i need to use. I believe that when I had the starter connected to the grounds it fried the wire connecting the two wires that went into the fuse box.
When I first connected the grounds to the starter and tried to turn it over it pretty much anniahlated that connector in the fuse box when I had the cable from the first picture. Since then I didnt know about that connector that got the melt down, and I connected the grounds up to the manifold and had the same result.
now for the important stuff..
the first picture is of this negative line(what to?) i found that when i connected it to the negative side of the battery... (which i marked negative on the cable when i removed it) it ended up frying the wire in the second picture (also shown in the first picture in the fuse box. I'm not quite sure what this cable goes as it runs through the harness and past the fuse box or maybe in the fuse box?
The wire in the second picture was a link between two wires(black and white) that can be seen in the third picture, again more wires i have no idea what they are.
I bought a fusible link (16guage) to try to repair the link the second picture and can be found in picture 4.
Lastly the two sets of ground cables ughh... I found a spot on the bottom of the lower intake manifold to bolt them to. On the USDM motor that i took out, these two sets were connected into one solid ground. I want to double ground them as someone mentioned before and was wondering what gauge cable i need to use. I believe that when I had the starter connected to the grounds it fried the wire connecting the two wires that went into the fuse box.
When I first connected the grounds to the starter and tried to turn it over it pretty much anniahlated that connector in the fuse box when I had the cable from the first picture. Since then I didnt know about that connector that got the melt down, and I connected the grounds up to the manifold and had the same result.
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i just rebuilt a 7mge they go on the two bolt holes above my hand on the lower half of the intake manifold
thats the two holes that arent covered by the gasket
I also did a JDM 7MGE swap and had the same clicking in the fuel relay, and I grounded the wires to the starter, so I put them to the intake manifold and it worked fine. Also, make sure you put the EFI fuse back in too. I forgot that also.