afm + vpc = awesome

juhanis

2jza70
Jan 11, 2006
136
0
0
Los Gatos, California
so, yeah, the reason i created this thread was to show something cool that i figured out. lately the fact that my car isnt making as much power as it could at this boost has been bugging me. so, i wanted to look into what i could do to make more power (aside from turning up the boost, or advancing the timing) the vpc has also been inconsistent with its settings. like it runs rich one moment, lean the next, and in between shifts it felt like i was waiting for the manifold to re inflate, there basically was a lag there. so, i decided to try the lexus afm. the drivability was shitty, but it made good power under boost. not to mention the settings weren't changing. the vpc makes shitty power, but good driveability, plus, when the bov opens my car doesnt loose metered air. i kinda wanted the best of both worlds. this is how i did it...

p1281696_1.jpg


i bought an adjustable pressure sensor off of ebay for like 18 bucks. using a compressor i dialed it to activate at around 1 or 2psi. then i use the constant pin on the pressure sensor for the afm signal going to the ecu. the other two pins are a normally closed and a normally open. the normally closed goes to the vpc ouput wire. the normally open goes to the afm signal from the afm itself. if the engine boosts, it starts metering the air with the afm. as soon as i take my foot off the gas, and boost goes away it goes back to the vpc. this is nice because i have the nice predictable nature of the afm, and the flexibility of the vpc. what i noticed from doing it, is more power under boost, and i dont have that laggy feeling in between shifts. the power is constant, and smooth. a major improvement over the vpc alone.
 

juhanis

2jza70
Jan 11, 2006
136
0
0
Los Gatos, California
hahha, looks like i created another thread that people look at. but no one replies. i seem to be good at this, i'm sure you guys think i'm on crack or something.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
43
Fort Worth, TX
LOL, ok, I'll reply to say I don't know if this is a bad or good idea and that I'll wait for the more knowledgable people to answer that question LOL

Not a whole lot of people run VPC's anymore (since they're getting kinda rare to find in good shape).
 

boostadikt

Freeway Foreplay
May 11, 2006
678
0
0
c-ville, Utah
kind of seems like going a step backwards before forwards.....

the whole purpose of the Vein Pressure Converter is in the name, to ditch the afm. the vpc is by no means a good tuning device it just gathers a pressure from its Map sensor and converts it to a vortex output that the ecu recognizes, you need another piggy back tuning device with it (emanage, SAFC is most popular)

what you are doing switching between signals is probably confusing the hell out of the ecu and trying to adjust to a map that is not as efficient as it could be..

IMO you would be better off going one way or the other if you have just a VPC i would say you can expect it to run like crap because you have extremely limited adjustments to give the ecu what it wants. otherwise go with just the afm... reset your ecu and let it adjust as normal, it was designed to take readings from the afm and should give you the best drivability but you have to worry about the car going rich when your BOV opens.

anyway... just my 2 cents, if you are getting good results with your new setup, then use what works.
 

juhanis

2jza70
Jan 11, 2006
136
0
0
Los Gatos, California
boostadikt;1282073 said:
kind of seems like going a step backwards before forwards.....

the whole purpose of the Vein Pressure Converter is in the name, to ditch the afm. the vpc is by no means a good tuning device it just gathers a pressure from its Map sensor and converts it to a vortex output that the ecu recognizes, you need another piggy back tuning device with it (emanage, SAFC is most popular)

what you are doing switching between signals is probably confusing the hell out of the ecu and trying to adjust to a map that is not as efficient as it could be..

IMO you would be better off going one way or the other if you have just a VPC i would say you can expect it to run like crap because you have extremely limited adjustments to give the ecu what it wants. otherwise go with just the afm... reset your ecu and let it adjust as normal, it was designed to take readings from the afm and should give you the best drivability but you have to worry about the car going rich when your BOV opens.

anyway... just my 2 cents, if you are getting good results with your new setup, then use what works.

i think collectively i've been running vpc's for about 5 years. and this is not a step back. i'm using an safc2 also, but i didnt want to confuse anyone. i know all of you guys are probably thinking i'm a crackpot... well, its working, i dont know what else to say. i've had people saying that what i do doesnt work all over... on miataturbo.net they said that i couldnt run 440cc injectors in a miata with a greddy emanage blue (well i ran them for 2 years straight) and made about 200hp and 190tq to the wheels in my 1.6 liter miata. i honestly think how the vpc works is a little lame. it could be so much better, but i made up for its shortcomings now. i think running the vpc by itself now is a step backwards, over what i came up with here. oh, and the transition is flawless... i dont even notice it changing. the car just runs as it should.
 

juhanis

2jza70
Jan 11, 2006
136
0
0
Los Gatos, California
tekdeus;1282333 said:
What's wrong with the driveability of the Lex AFM and SAFC? Mine runs great other than going rich after blowoff.

i wish i could tell you... with the car just on afm it idles, but if i rev it to like 3k and then just take my foot off the gas the car dies. plus, if i'm driving it at a steady throttle, or after doing some accelerating and i put the clutch in it dies. well, it got on my nerves and i thought of this idea. also the bov doesn't make my car run rich when it opens. so far so good.
 

5uprahboy

New Member
Aug 22, 2005
343
0
0
Auckland
juhanis;1282491 said:
i wish i could tell you... with the car just on afm it idles, but if i rev it to like 3k and then just take my foot off the gas the car dies. plus, if i'm driving it at a steady throttle, or after doing some accelerating and i put the clutch in it dies. well, it got on my nerves and i thought of this idea. also the bov doesn't make my car run rich when it opens. so far so good.

Yeah because your BOV is venting to atmo so the ECU pumps in fuel for all that air it thinks the engine's getting

Vent your BOV into your intake - problem solved....
 

juhanis

2jza70
Jan 11, 2006
136
0
0
Los Gatos, California
tissimo;1283399 said:
wow, thats a lot of fail.

yeah, true that. haha.

sethron71;1283714 said:
Bump your idle with the idle screw on the on TB simply opens the tb a bit. Set it at about 750-900rpm and no more dying!

Seth

i dont think that i have this screw on my intake manifold. i'm running a 2jzge, but i think there is a plug there. i dont remember. i dont even remember if the 7m had it either. i do know about those screws, i've never seen one on the 2jzge :3d_frown: tomorrow i'll post up video of my dual metering setup against my friends 325hp 345tq mustang dyno'd evo mr.