Afm bad? What should I do?

jdub

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You might want to take a look at some of the threads on the emanage...it's not very user friendly iirc.

For any speed density set-up you will need a MAP (3 Bar), a temp sensor, and harnesses for each...the GM versions are commonly used.

The AVC-R is a better boost controller.
 

grimreaper

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speed density setup vs. stock afm = AFM cheaper.

Hit up a junk yard and find a lexus ls 400. I picked up two for $50 a few months back
 

rayall01

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jdub;1294427 said:
Nice try...I'm in the USAFR. F-16 pilot to be exact that moved up the food chain just a bit. You picked the wrong guy to pull the military card on.

There are numerous times that has been corrected in this and other sections of SM...you've just chose to ignore it. Toyota makes a very exact distinction between a MAF and an AFM...it's in the manual and the tech specs. So if you are a military technician and you were speaking to me as OIC, you would use the correct terminology or you would be having a small problem with the 1st shirt ;)

In fact, of all people, you should know better.

The cleaning advice you gave would only make it worse and if the AFM was not FUBAR (wiring problem), it would be after using that cleaner. Keep in mind you posted in the Tech Section, poor or inaccurate info will be shot down pretty darn fast. Including options that will not provide a good long-term solution.

No I didn't ignore anything. I have not seen it in any of the threads I looked at. As for the military jargon point, I was only saying it in fun, hence the smiley. Apparently you ignored that. And I've actually used the crc spray, have you? It improved my AFM after use, because it cleaned the filter oil that got on it. Kept me going for quite some time, until my HG blew. As I said, I wasn't promising it would help, I just thought , after my experience with it, that if the problem was actually a contaminated mirror, this might be the only possible way to cheaply get it running acceptably again. And finally, my MAFT choice only costs about $350.00, not $500.00, or $600.00. Remember, you attacked what I said, and seem to be blowing it out of proportion just a bit. I'm just defending myself.
 

jdub

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rayall01;1294556 said:
No I didn't ignore anything. I have not seen it in any of the threads I looked at. As for the military jargon point, I was only saying it in fun, hence the smiley. Apparently you ignored that. And I've actually used the crc spray, have you? It improved my AFM after use, because it cleaned the filter oil that got on it. Kept me going for quite some time, until my HG blew. As I said, I wasn't promising it would help, I just thought , after my experience with it, that if the problem was actually a contaminated mirror, this might be the only possible way to cheaply get it running acceptably again. And finally, my MAFT choice only costs about $350.00, not $500.00, or $600.00. Remember, you attacked what I said, and seem to be blowing it out of proportion just a bit. I'm just defending myself.


I didn't attack anyone or anything...other than inaccurate info:

jdub said:
The cleaning advice you gave would only make it worse and if the AFM was not FUBAR (wiring problem), it would be after using that cleaner. Keep in mind you posted in the Tech Section, poor or inaccurate info will be shot down pretty darn fast. Including options that will not provide a good long-term solution.

(I hate quoting myself)
I am a moderator in this section...If you are not 100% sure of what you post, do not post. I saw the smiley and the lame attempt to justify your position with a smoke screen based on military experience. I am one of the few USAF pilots you will run into that has been in charge of an aircraft maintenance section. What you posted about alluding to USAF maintenance terminology was so far from the truth, you gave me no choice. I blew nothing out of proportion.

As far as CRC spray...no, I have not used it because I have seen what it does to the mirror in the AFM. Take a look at the link (pics) in post #6...that's what CRC spray does. Anyone that chooses to use it has a very high probability of the same result.

None of this does the OP any good. If you have a problem with all this, either keep it to yourself or you can PM SupraCentral and tell him how I attacked you.
Make sure you point this thread out and how your small cat got hurt as a result.

That said...back on topic. Enough of this pissing contest. Otherwise the thread gets locked.
 

7mMoneyPit

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Ok I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with an emanage blue system with the gm map to get rid of the afm and to give me some tuning room that I want. Of course I'm gonna need a wideband to tune with, the kit I'm looking at has the emanage box the data cable inj and ign harnesses and a 3" gm maf, is this all I need? Any objections?
 

rayall01

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7mMoneyPit;1295797 said:
Ok I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with an emanage blue system with the gm map to get rid of the afm and to give me some tuning room that I want. Of course I'm gonna need a wideband to tune with, the kit I'm looking at has the emanage box the data cable inj and ign harnesses and a 3" gm maf, is this all I need? Any objections?

How much does it all cost?
 

7mMoneyPit

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From Greddy about $600,
Emanage Blue Box $379
Inj. Harness $38.50
Ign. Harness $41.80
Support Tool $139
Total : $598.30 plus cost of gm sensor

But lucky me I found one on the For sale thread for $215 please don't snatch it from me as I need a week to get the funds together. Can't Wait!
 

rayall01

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7mMoneyPit;1295870 said:
From Greddy about $600,
Emanage Blue Box $379
Inj. Harness $38.50
Ign. Harness $41.80
Support Tool $139
Total : $598.30 plus cost of gm sensor

But lucky me I found one on the For sale thread for $215 please don't snatch it from me as I need a week to get the funds together. Can't Wait!

Lucky you, but that cost list you posted is almost twice what my suggestion cost. Good thing you found it so cheap. Are you absolutely certain that it's your AFM?
 

7mMoneyPit

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Yeah I'm positive it's the AFM as it got a pretty direct blast of brake cleaner, I'm sure the list prices I put up there are probably the highest you could pay for it as it's from Greddy's site, just went there for a quick reference. Just wanted to point out which accessories I was getting and how you had to purchase them individually and how quick that adds up and pisses you off at the same time.:nono:
 

7mMoneyPit

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Well what I ended up with is a Greddy Emanage Blue unit and a ls-1 hotwire maf which as far as I can tell there's no way to replace or eliminate the factory kv with it although when I was buying it I thought it was a map sensor to run in speed density but don't think that this will do anything for me at all. Any Ideas? The guy I bought it from said he used the gm maf in blow through mode but he didn't hook it up so don't know how it was wired to work.
 

jdub

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jdub;1294446 said:
You might want to take a look at some of the threads on the emanage...it's not very user friendly iirc.

For any speed density set-up you will need a MAP (3 Bar), a temp sensor, and harnesses for each...the GM versions are commonly used.

The AVC-R is a better boost controller.


I tried to warn you ;)
 

7mMoneyPit

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jdub;1317696 said:
I tried to warn you ;)

Well like I said in the post I thought it was a map sensor at first but then I found out it was a hot-wire maf which does me no good at all.

My question is how does he claim to have eliminated stock kv with this maf in blow through mode? I see the emanage has air flow meter change options but none seem like they could work for a kv system? :cry:


If I can't figure out something or magically find one in a junk yard I will be buying a stock electronics from the kv afm
 

7mMoneyPit

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I got the car to run with the emanage running and the stock kv then recorded the kv-input stays at 0 until about 1/4 throttle and finally started getting readings at 1306 rpms I got 98hz with a max of 3130rpms and 217hz, is there any way to keep the hz from dropping with the emanage?