AEM v1 Injector and Ignition Phasing... In need of HELP

wisetechscottt

New Member
Sep 3, 2015
18
0
0
Detroit
I am in some serious need of help, as the saying goes I know enough to be dangerous but not enough to be helpful.
Engine: 7MGTE
ECU: AEM series 1

I have a question about the Injector phase table, and the ignition phase table and how they relate to each other. MY car is currently running on only 3 cylinders ( 1, 3, 6). I know I have spark, compression and fuel in the other 3 cylinders. This leads me to believe that my phasing must be off for these three.

In the EMS I have spark teeth and Fuel teeth set to 24.
Injectors are wired sequentially and 4,5,6 are being triggered from injector 7, 8,9 respectfully in the EMS.
I am running 1zz Smart COP in waste fire, but using 24 spark teeth.

I know that some believe that you can’t use smart coils in a waste fire arrangement as the available dwell time at higher RPMs will effectively get cut in half. If I remember correctly when I did the math even at 10,000 RPM you should have 3.5 ms of available dwell time with this setup.
My understanding of how the fuel and spark teeth work is that these are simply just indicator to the ems of when to initiate either the fuel or spark events. The ignition event should happen around 360 degree ( or 24 teeth) from when the injection event happened, is my understanding of this correct? I have read that it is better to inject on a closed valve so that would push the injection event back 4-5 teeth.
The values I am using right now I had found on miscellaneous forum posts so I guess I’m just looking for a confirmation on my understanding above and then I will have to adjust the values below.

1_3_6 FIRE (1).jpg
 

wisetechscottt

New Member
Sep 3, 2015
18
0
0
Detroit
*** UPDATE ***

I read last night that the original documentation that had the ignition phasing i posted above had coil driver 2 and 7 ( coil 5) inverted. I flipped the values around and now i moved my fault. With this configuration i am firing cylinders 1, 2, 3 but not 4, 5, 6.

Someone out there has to be able to make me feel like an idiot and point out what the hell i'm doing wrong.
 

Funkycheeze

Grease Monkey
Jul 3, 2009
163
0
16
Calgary
If you have 24 fuel teeth set, with firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, you want the injectors to fire on closed valves in order 6-2-4-1-5-3. Phasing would be injector 1:12 teeth, 2:4 teeth, 3:20 teeth, 4:8 teeth, 5:16 teeth and 6:0 teeth. This would be for coils 1-6 set as 0, 16, 8, 20, 4 and 12 teeth.
 

wisetechscottt

New Member
Sep 3, 2015
18
0
0
Detroit
Thanks for the help guys! With Kotu's help i got it runing on all 6 last night. I will definitly give Funky's numbers a go.

Funky - i have a general question to increase my own knowledge. If you put the spark teeth to 12 why would you have 5 phase numbers? I was under the impression that if you used 12 teeth you would only turn on coils 1, 2 and 3. I completly trust that your right lol.. I just want to know what i'm missing conceptually.
 

wisetechscottt

New Member
Sep 3, 2015
18
0
0
Detroit
Nevermind, it just hit me. Your saying the last phasing event for coil 6 will be 12 teeth. I misread you statement.

Thanks again for all the help guys
 

Funkycheeze

Grease Monkey
Jul 3, 2009
163
0
16
Calgary
You got it, fuel and spark teeth should be 24 for fully sequential operation 12 teeth would be for bath fire or waste spark only. Also remember to check the injector advance map - for my numbers you would set this entire map to zero, and then tune the injector advance/retard in degrees from there, with zero representing the injection event occurring 360 degrees before the ignition event. Alternatively you can set the fuel and spark teeth the same, and begin with the injector advance map set to 360. I prefer to have it start at zero.

Also don't forget to use the wizard to check your base timing after setting the spark teeth. I like to have the CPS set fully to one side (usually the advance side, so if it slips there will be minimal consequences) and then set the timing using the wizard. That way you don't need to re-check it if you remove the cps, just set it right back fully to the side you had originally. I even ended up welding the slot closed so it just has a tight fitting hole for the bolt - zero chance of slip.