AEM Installed and Running

Boosted Supra

AEM 7MGTE 6765
Apr 7, 2005
353
0
16
44
Valley Stream, New York, United States
Just got the car back from the shop, car runs great and idle's beautiful. It started on the first key. I used a GM map sensor as I don't plan on boosting anymore than 28psi, I also used a GM temp sensor.

The car had lots of boost leaks, the worst ones were the tear in the inner cooler, the vacuum ports on the Q45 TB and the turbo compressor housing. Although, with the new engine harness, everything looks so nice in the bay. My next project is to custom make a plate for the glove box to house the AVCR, TT and a serial interface.

For the first time in a long time I had to drive the car home in rain, I can't believe the wipers still work, lol. It's pretty scary driving a Supra like mine in the rain
 

chevyeater

wastegate hose is pulled
Mar 30, 2005
530
0
0
83
Long Island, NY
Glad you made it home safe in the rain Manny.

logan- It does the "3k stumble" very slightly if you sweep thru at just the right acceleration rate. I have some ideas on how to eliminate it completely when me and Manny have a chance to spend some time street tuning the driveability. But, the one day I had to tune on my own was primarily focused on startup, idle stability and cruise A:Fs so, I just minimized the stumble for now. I'm confidant we can get the driveability much better than stock once we spend the time on it. I'm also confidant Manny will have to update his sig once we hit the dyno! :D
 

chevyeater

wastegate hose is pulled
Mar 30, 2005
530
0
0
83
Long Island, NY
BlackDevilSupra;1028204 said:
Please note exactly what's done to eliminate / alleviate the stumble since I'll also be destined to have similar issue :)

Bring it over if you ever get one back together Howard! :sarcasm: :biglaugh:
Seriously, you know I am just a phone call or a short drive/ferry ride away.

Glad to take care of it for you Manny. Can't wait until we get a chance to make some power!
 

Halsupramk3

Member
Apr 4, 2005
444
0
16
Mississippi
i had the stumble too on my 90 T with the aem. i tried several ignitors and that can work but gets expensive. You may already know this but here is how i think the stumble can be fixed and how the aem does ignition timing.

I think i got rid of the stumble by setting the physical timing with the cps to a specific spot. rotate the balancer to set the timing mark to zero TDC and insert a long socket extention into no 1 spark plug hole so it rests on the piston top. turn the crank to make sure zero tdc is set. this will make sure your timing mark on the balancer is still at zero TDC when the piston is at it highest point of the stroke.
now rotate the cps so that there is just about 1/4 inch between the rotor point and the top magnet prong (IG1?). just under 1/4 inch. this would be about 10* TDC base timing on a stock setup. i think the rotor is counter clockwise (left) of the prong.

the aem doesnt use any base timing set point. it will set the timing as inputed by the timing map and any modifiers (ait etc). the point at where the cps is position is recorded in the program as the ignition sync number. it is located in the advanced ignition options tab. mine is around 1.06. i think this is good for 89+ cars to be around this number. i think the number is a delay number to help the ecu calculate where tdc is. timing is initiated off the timing map and does not have a base number starting point.

adjusting the cps position i think helped get rid of the stumble. adjusting the coil dwell number may also. that adjustment is located in ignition, advanced ignition, coil dwell setup. mine is set to 10. you can go up and down by 2 from about 8 to 23 or so. also try differences of 1 when you get to a number that works. ie, 10, 12, 14, 13, 12, 14, 15 to try to see what works best. sometimes adjusting dwell just gets the stumble to move around in the rpm range. like from 3100 to 2800 rpm.

so set cps to about 1/4 inch, try differnet coil dwell numbers, and try different ignitors. also be sure all ground connections are clean and secure.

of course set the timing with a timing gun and use the aem ignition set up. set the timing to 0 then 15* then 5 then 10 and make sure the light moves to the correct mark on the timing cover when you do. when you set default timing in the timing setup on the aem it will ignore the map and modifiers and set the timing to the number inputed. if it is not correct use the adavance and retard tabs (course or fine) to get the timing mark to move to the appropriate number. do not use the cps to set timing. the cps will stay set to the place set above. when you hit the advance or retard tabs the ignition sync number changes to make the timing mark move in the light.
 
Last edited:

chevyeater

wastegate hose is pulled
Mar 30, 2005
530
0
0
83
Long Island, NY
Halsupramk3;1029462 said:
i had the stumble too on my 90 T with the aem. i tried several ignitors and that can work but gets expensive. You may already know this but here is how i think the stumble can be fixed and how the aem does ignition timing.

I think i got rid of the stumble by setting the physical timing with the cps to a specific spot. rotate the balancer to set the timing mark to zero TDC and insert a long socket extention into no 1 spark plug hole so it rests on the piston top. turn the crank to make sure zero tdc is set. this will make sure your timing mark on the balancer is still at zero TDC when the piston is at it highest point of the stroke.
now rotate the cps so that there is just about 1/4 inch between the rotor point and the top magnet prong (IG1?). just under 1/4 inch. this would be about 10* TDC base timing on a stock setup. i think the rotor is counter clockwise (left) of the prong.

the aem doesnt use any base timing set point. it will set the timing as inputed by the timing map and any modifiers (ait etc). the point at where the cps is position is recorded in the program as the ignition sync number. it is located in the advanced ignition options tab. mine is around 1.06. i think this is good for 89+ cars to be around this number. i think the number is a delay number to help the ecu calculate where tdc is. timing is initiated off the timing map and does not have a base number starting point.

adjusting the cps position i think helped get rid of the stumble. also adjusting the coil dwell number may also. that adjustment is located in ignition, advanced ignition, coil dwell setup. mine is set to 10. you can go up and down by 2 from about 8 to 23 or so. also try differences of 1 when you get to a number that works. ie, 10, 12, 14, 13, 12, 14, 15 to try to see what works best. sometimes adjusting dwell just gets the stumble to move around in the rpm range. like from 3100 to 2800 rpm.

so set cps to about 1/4 inch, try differnet coil dwell numbers, and try different ignitors. also be sure all ground connections are clean and secure.

of course set the timing with a timing gun and use the aem ignition set up. set the timing to 0 then 15* then 5 then 10 and make sure the light moves to the correct mark on the timing cover when you do. when you set default timing in the timing setup on the aem it will ignore the map and modifiers and set the timing to the number inputed. if it is not correct use the adavance and retard tabs (course or fine) to get the timing mark to move to the appropriate number. do not use the cps to set timing. the cps will stay set to the place set above. when you hit the advance or retard tabs the ignition sync number changes to make the timing mark move in the light.

Thanks for the tips. Did the first part before turning the key on Mannys car. The dwell and main spark advance are usually where it is at to "fine tune" the stumble all the way out, once the CPS is where the AEM likes it...