AEM EMS tuning questions

[redhot91gt]

I have recently went standalone with a AEM EMS. I also did the dh61 ignitor/is300 coil modification and gm map/iat sensors. I used a startup calibration that was not boost comp yet and it seemed to start and run alright but real rich. I just recently took it to a local tuner and we had it on the dyno for a while. He typically tunes domestics and has not touched a 7m car before. For whatever reason the car doesnt like to run/idle at anything higher than like 13.5 a/f ratios. In fact its mostly in the 12's if I want it to run well. Is this normal? Also I am having (what seems to be) a spark blowout issue at anything over like 15 psi. I was having no issues with near 20psi with my piggyback that I had on it previously (before the ignitor/is300 coil mod) The tuner seems to think that I need to change the plugs, So I am going to do that and see if it helps. Any recomendations on plugs/gap's for the aem ems with the 2jz na coils? Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks
-Stu

 

[Funkycheeze]

Use BKR7E plugs gapped nice and tight (I go with around 0.028 inches)

An ignition amplifier like a HKS twinpower DLI or similar can help alot.

My best idle seems around 12.0:1 as well with the AEM. Might be something to do with minimum injector pulse width and the way the AEM works with the stock batch fire system?

 

[redhot91gt]

Use BKR7E plugs gapped nice and tight (I go with around 0.028 inches)

An ignition amplifier like a HKS twinpower DLI or similar can help alot.

My best idle seems around 12.0:1 as well with the AEM. Might be something to do with minimum injector pulse width and the way the AEM works with the stock batch fire system?

Alright, Thanks for the info. I will put new those plugs in it ASAP. Yeah there's so many functions you can change, figured maybe something is causing it to not be able to run leaner.

I also noticed in one of your previous posts that you changed the way the injection was fired? Or maybe I misunderstood. I cant find where to change it. This is the post
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ess-than-200&p=1622927&viewfull=1#post1622927

Any more details on where this stuff is on the software? I am a newb to it so I couldnt find it

Your posts have been alot of help in previous threads so I appreciate it!

Thanks
-Stu

PS: you wouldnt happen to have your .cal file handy maybe I could look at it?

 

[Enraged]

you can change to sequential injection, people seem to have good results with it.

 

[redhot91gt]

you can change to sequential injection, people seem to have good results with it.

I may do this later, but my car is already at the tuner right now, and I dont want to have to change the whole thing and then have to get charged more right now. I think funky changed his phasing even without going sequential. I may try that out first, just not sure exactly how to.

 

[Funkycheeze]

Yeah I set up the phasing for it to idle and run better - that post details how to do it. Injectors 4, 5 and 6 are just a mirror of 1, 2 and 3 since they share the same outputs (4 and 1, 2 and 6, 3 and 5)

 

[redhot91gt]

Yeah I set up the phasing for it to idle and run better - that post details how to do it. Injectors 4, 5 and 6 are just a mirror of 1, 2 and 3 since they share the same outputs (4 and 1, 2 and 6, 3 and 5)

Just to check for sure. Is this what you have?

Injector 1: 8 teeth (cyl 1)
Injector 2: 0 teeth (cyl 2)
Injector 3: 16 teeth (cyl 3)
Injector 4: 8 teeth (cyl 4)
Injector 5: 16 teeth (cyl 5)
Injector 6: 0 teeth (cyl 6)

 

[Funkycheeze]

Look at the next page in that thread - my best tune is

1: 12 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
2: 4 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'
3: 20 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Band 'C'
4: 8 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
5: 16 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Bank 'C'
6: 0 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'

So with firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, the banks go B-B-A-A-C-C, injecting at least half the fuel on the open valve of the correct cylinder. My injection advance map goes from 0 degrees at 0 RPM to 90 degrees at 7000 RPM.

 

[redhot91gt]

Look at the next page in that thread - my best tune is

1: 12 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
2: 4 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'
3: 20 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Band 'C'
4: 8 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
5: 16 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Bank 'C'
6: 0 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'

So with firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, the banks go B-B-A-A-C-C, injecting at least half the fuel on the open valve of the correct cylinder. My injection advance map goes from 0 degrees at 0 RPM to 90 degrees at 7000 RPM.

Oh, Didn't even see that. I will try this out see If I have any issues with it. I'm running rx7 high impedance 550cc injectors not sure if that makes much of a difference

Thanks again for the help

 

[redhot91gt]

Look at the next page in that thread - my best tune is

1: 12 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
2: 4 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'
3: 20 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Band 'C'
4: 8 teeth (cyl 1 and 4) Bank 'A'
5: 16 teeth (cyl 3 and 5) Bank 'C'
6: 0 teeth (cyl 2 and 6) Bank 'B'

So with firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, the banks go B-B-A-A-C-C, injecting at least half the fuel on the open valve of the correct cylinder. My injection advance map goes from 0 degrees at 0 RPM to 90 degrees at 7000 RPM.

I tried the teeth setup above and the car wouldn't start for whatever reason. Are you changing the banks somehow? I cant find any options for setting banks, I just figured since you are using the stock wiring setup that all it would need are the teeth numbers inputed? Anyway I had the car tuned by a local shop, but I am not really that happy with the drivability. I will just keep trying to learn more about it and tinker with it. I would think I could get pretty good driveability out of the AEM I just knew what everything was. I'll keep trying, and I apologize for being an absolute newb when it comes to this aem software.

Thanks

 

[NashMan]

i think your best bet is to list off what you did for your frist start up

a sinking in your afr ratios
base map mixed with you injectors might not slide since there at diffent owms then the stock map try doing a re auto map scale of the base map ( highlight all cells and left click) change injectors and persure to the rx7 ones this will save alot of time

2 make sure your ideal speed control vavle is switched on

ideal step 1/2 and 3/4 if i remmber right under option and full list


this is all that come to mind right now


good luck

 

[Enraged]

nashman and i had a bitch of a time getting my car started on the AEM, but in the end it was nothing to do with the AEM (bad MAP sensor and bad coolant temp sensor).

like nashman said, the biggest thing imho is getting your wideband set correctly. im using an AEM gauge sensor, and all you need to do is unplug the sensor, and the gauge will output 2.35V = 14.7 AFR. Then on the AEM you have to scale the wideband until the voltage/AFR matches. once this was done, all of the tuning seemed to get alot better.

also, if you dont have an idle speed controller, make sure to turn it off in the AEM

 

[Funkycheeze]

With my phasing setup it needs to be set to 12 fuel teeth. Very important.

 

[redhot91gt]

With my phasing setup it needs to be set to 12 fuel teeth. Very important.

That was the key, I didn't put that in. It runs pretty good just really rich. I'll Probably need to re-tune the whole fuel map huh?
Thanks again funky

 

[redhot91gt]

My injection advance map goes from 0 degrees at 0 RPM to 90 degrees at 7000 RPM.

One last question for you funky, Does your injection advance map look linear? Or is it stepped like the stock injection map?

 

[Funkycheeze]

Linear, I believe.

Also, i made a typo above - see how it runs with 24 fuel teeth, as that is what it should be set at, not 12.

 

[redhot91gt]

Linear, I believe.

Also, i made a typo above - see how it runs with 24 fuel teeth, as that is what it should be set at, not 12.

I was able to start it, but it ran badly. There is definately a misfire with that injector phasing setup... Although it would start. After having a dyno shop tune the car it ran pretty good, but not even close to what I would say is a good tune. The boost comp setup that my tuner did has no fuel being taken out in the vacuum area's which I cant understand, because most tutorials show that it should be -100% at around 0kpa but mines at 0% all the way to 100kpa then it goes up. I tried making a linear line to -100% but it wouldn't even start.

I really wish someone had a good boost comp map for a 7m that I could at least look at and compare to.

Only way the car runs right as of now is with the injector phasing set to 000000 which doesn't even seem correct for our cars... But then again if it wasn't correct why would they even have it setup like that in the start up calibration.

 

[adampecush]

with 0000000 all of the injectors are firing at the same time. Twice per revolution with 12 fuel teeth, once with 24. If you are running off 12 teeth, try firing the injectors before the valves of the first cylinder in that pairing open. Off the top of my head, I can't remember what my phasing is, but I'll try look at my map when I'm home later. You have to ensure that the correct injectors are paried in the injector phasing window, or with 12 fuel teeth, you can end up firing an injector 4 times per revolution (injectors are wired in pairs).

 

[Funkycheeze]

might need more fuel at idle with 24 teeth. The map I made was done using a spreadsheet to approximate the boost comp. values in the boost range, and manually tuned cell by cell in the vacuum range. The cell by cell values were then nailed down in the boost range.

Did the tuner set up the intake air temp fuel compensation table? This is very important.

 

[redhot91gt]

Well, I will keep tinkering with the phasing, but so far I cant get it to run well with anything but the 000000. It looks like its going to require quite a bit of change in my whole fuel map to fix the phasing properly. I have lost faith in the tuner I used, because he didn't seem to change much. He sort of got me started, which I feel isn't what I paid for.
Here is my air intake temp/fuel correction table and my main fuel map. I actually have made quite a few changes to it already for the better because it was quite a bit more jagged and not smooth (fuel map) I dont even th ink the air intake temp/fuel correction was touched