I am planning on purchasing alot of stuff for the supra. (aem ems, 550 injectors, fuel pump, afpr, turbo upgrade, clutch, exhaust) Was wondering what all i needed for the ems itself. I know that i will need the map sensor and pigtail, along with the iat and pigtail, plus a wideband set-up. I am confused on the boost solenoid? What is its purpose? Is it the same as a boost bypass solenoid? Let me know if i am forgetting anything else that is necessary thanks.
aem ems components and mods
- Thread starter 89supra7mgte
- Start date
Boost soleniod is to control Boost, like a boost controller. You can use the AEM with all stock parts but I have read that the igniters give problems and their is a write up on how to use a three channel igniter.
I myself am going to purchase an AEM. Grimsta has a good price on them but only for 89+ cars. When I do install my AEM, I plan on going Speed Density at the sametime. I am going to learn how to make my fuel maps and monitor my Air to Fuel ratio. Then I am going to figure out on how to set timing but nothing to drastic until I learn how everything relates to each other. Maybe I will ask someone on her to make a base map for me after I do some data logging.
I myself am going to purchase an AEM. Grimsta has a good price on them but only for 89+ cars. When I do install my AEM, I plan on going Speed Density at the sametime. I am going to learn how to make my fuel maps and monitor my Air to Fuel ratio. Then I am going to figure out on how to set timing but nothing to drastic until I learn how everything relates to each other. Maybe I will ask someone on her to make a base map for me after I do some data logging.
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grimsta's one of the vendors here.
So just the unit here
http://www.aemonly.com/electronics-...3/aem-ems-for-supra-turbo-1987-1988-1825.html
is all thats needed to start out?
i really want to get away from the factory afm, what is needed to switch to MAP or speed density (and the difference?)
So just the unit here
http://www.aemonly.com/electronics-...3/aem-ems-for-supra-turbo-1987-1988-1825.html
is all thats needed to start out?
i really want to get away from the factory afm, what is needed to switch to MAP or speed density (and the difference?)
I emailed him but its hard to get a word from him, so i went outside the forum to someone that does this stuff for a living and you can actually talk to instead of emailiing. he is going to build me up a package for the supra. Aem, turbo upgrade, fuel upgrade, exhaust, etc..... Ill let ya know how that goes when i get it. Supposed to be upwards of 500 hp close to 600. Anyways he gave me alot of info on the ems system, and what is needed to manage it better and do away with the afm. (IAT, MAP, BOOST SOLENOID Aem tru-boost)
Get a GM boost solenoid and pig tail from rock auto. IIRC the solenoid is $17 and pig tail was $10.
Search for something like a 2008, GMC, 1 ton, diesel truck
Search for something like a 2008, GMC, 1 ton, diesel truck
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i found the aem or mac boost selonoid works better than the gm selonoid. the aem can control boost very well with the aem/mac selonoid. the tru boost works great also but as stated use the money for atleast one aem serial gauge.
i have the 3 channel ignitor on my aem and it is a must. get rid of the multiplex ignition. it is as good of an upgrade as getting rid of the maf. i can put one together for you when you are getting this installed. it is PnP. i also wired in injectors 4,5,6 directly for sequential injection. really nice upgrade too but more involved.
zeitronics has a very good 3.5 or 5 bar map sensor. as good of quality as aem. looks like it may be the same sensor.
http://www.zeitronix.com/
be sure to put the map filter to 6 tooth so the reading wont jump around alot.
goto a junkyard and get the gm pigtails. a lot of chevy TPS have the 3 wire for the map. the ait sensors and pigtails are available. the gm cars have the pig tails for the gm boost selonoid too. forgot what it looks like.
the synapse wg and bov are awesome. the synapse wg works great with the boost selonoid and aem boost control. it is a little pricy but worth it. my boost is steady and easy to tune with the synapse wg.
if you have any questions PM for my email.
i have the 3 channel ignitor on my aem and it is a must. get rid of the multiplex ignition. it is as good of an upgrade as getting rid of the maf. i can put one together for you when you are getting this installed. it is PnP. i also wired in injectors 4,5,6 directly for sequential injection. really nice upgrade too but more involved.
zeitronics has a very good 3.5 or 5 bar map sensor. as good of quality as aem. looks like it may be the same sensor.
http://www.zeitronix.com/
be sure to put the map filter to 6 tooth so the reading wont jump around alot.
goto a junkyard and get the gm pigtails. a lot of chevy TPS have the 3 wire for the map. the ait sensors and pigtails are available. the gm cars have the pig tails for the gm boost selonoid too. forgot what it looks like.
the synapse wg and bov are awesome. the synapse wg works great with the boost selonoid and aem boost control. it is a little pricy but worth it. my boost is steady and easy to tune with the synapse wg.
if you have any questions PM for my email.
I have never seen the thread to wire for sequential injection, only of removing the multiplex ignition.
IBoughtASupra;1514715 said:
it is hidden in the 3000 GT ignitor thread on page 2 as here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?93950-3000-GT-ignitor-wiring-for-a-standalone/page2
just some cutting of the ground wire on 4,5,6 injectors and wiring them into aem inj 7,8,9 then putting in the numbers in the program. be sure to cut the ground wire and not the power source wire on the injector.
one thing not mentioned is that now you will be firing fuel once per revolution and not twice (batch fire) you will need to retune the car. to get a rough start on the fuel map change the microbit sec number. there is a procedure on aem forums to do this. if your microbit sec is 35 change it to 70 as per the procedure and now you are dumping twice the fuel durning one injection event as per your fuel teeth and inj phasing. you may have to retune the idle area and vacuum cruize a little. You should not be off by much and ease into boost a little increase at a time to make sure the a/f are good. It is best if you are using boost fuel comp too.
here is how to change microbit sec. it is in the first reply on this boost fuel comp thread that every aem owner should read repeatedly till it is understood.
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,11494.0.html
first reply is as follows:
"Bummer - can't attach files here or I'd add examples to this post. AEM can ya' help me out here?
First this setting can only be found if you look at the Options, Full List. It's called MicroSec/bit.
Okay - so what's MicroSecBit? Pull up the Fuel Map, Right Click, View RAW. The numbers in those cells can be between 0-255. Look at peak torque at peak load - are you close to 255? Now look at idle - are you close to 0? You can actually have 255 in one of those cells and NOT have full fueling! You can also have very small numbers in the idle area and find that making changes as small as one increment will swing A/F by a LARGE amount. Neither of these situations is one that you want. LEts say the idle range has a number of 10 in it - moving to 11 you swing fueling by 1/10th - that's alot! My idle numbers are over 100 - now THAT is granularity. MicroSecBit or MSecBit is what defines the value of "1" in the fuel table. You CAN modify it!
So, before yuo go playing with that number realize it will have BIG impacts on your fueling. Here's how you change it "safely". Open the fuel map, right click, View Duty Cycle. Highlight the ENTIRE map, right click, Copy to clipboard. Now modify MSecBit up or down and then Paste the fuel mapping back while still looking at Duty Cycle. Right Click, View RAW. Any numbers over 255? IF yes then MSecBit is too small, switch back to Duty Cycle view, make it bigger, Paste the previously saved table, and check the RAW view again until the numbers are big but not huge. Note that if you use Boost Comp as explained above you'll also gain granularity. Doen CORRECTLY fueling shouldn't change much and the car shouldn't need too much retuning when you now upload this mapping to the ECU."
very useful
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,11494.0.html
first reply is as follows:
"Bummer - can't attach files here or I'd add examples to this post. AEM can ya' help me out here?
First this setting can only be found if you look at the Options, Full List. It's called MicroSec/bit.
Okay - so what's MicroSecBit? Pull up the Fuel Map, Right Click, View RAW. The numbers in those cells can be between 0-255. Look at peak torque at peak load - are you close to 255? Now look at idle - are you close to 0? You can actually have 255 in one of those cells and NOT have full fueling! You can also have very small numbers in the idle area and find that making changes as small as one increment will swing A/F by a LARGE amount. Neither of these situations is one that you want. LEts say the idle range has a number of 10 in it - moving to 11 you swing fueling by 1/10th - that's alot! My idle numbers are over 100 - now THAT is granularity. MicroSecBit or MSecBit is what defines the value of "1" in the fuel table. You CAN modify it!
So, before yuo go playing with that number realize it will have BIG impacts on your fueling. Here's how you change it "safely". Open the fuel map, right click, View Duty Cycle. Highlight the ENTIRE map, right click, Copy to clipboard. Now modify MSecBit up or down and then Paste the fuel mapping back while still looking at Duty Cycle. Right Click, View RAW. Any numbers over 255? IF yes then MSecBit is too small, switch back to Duty Cycle view, make it bigger, Paste the previously saved table, and check the RAW view again until the numbers are big but not huge. Note that if you use Boost Comp as explained above you'll also gain granularity. Doen CORRECTLY fueling shouldn't change much and the car shouldn't need too much retuning when you now upload this mapping to the ECU."
very useful
ae86ma70;1513543 said:
Dunno much about it besides the fact that it's all the gauges in just 1 gauge. personally I wouldn't want something like that because as I glance up I want to see a little bit of everything at 1 time.
I just haven't seen many people on here with the AEM serial gauge to see any positive feedback.
I didn't say "don't get a boost gauge", but there's no need to buy a boost controller in addition to the EMS, when the EMS can handle that for you. By all means, get a boost gauge, but get one that doesn't cost $300. Even buying a second datastream gauge to daisy-chain for monitoring boost would be cheaper than buying the TruBoost.
ae86ma70;1516387 said:
I know I didn't say you did. I also didnt say you needed to buy the true boost as well. I agree with you. I was hoping you would be able to enlighten us more about the serial guage as if you've had experience with it. But since you agree that maybe 2 would be better than 1 tells me enough. Now that you've said this I may buy 2 as I've sat on it more and thought about it. I've already got an AEM uego so the other 2 would monitor boost, water temp, etc.
Wouldn't be a bad idea IMO.
I have a confession. I own both the TruBoost and the AEM UEGO with the gauge. When I purchased them a year ago, I really had no idea that I'd end up going standalone. When I bought those two gauges, I also ordered a 3-space gauge pod from Lotek. The serial gauge does a really nice job of filling the third hole (Get your minds out of the gutter, folks). I have also replaced the factory boost gauge with a voltmeter out of an N/A Supra. I will admit to not having my serial gauge hooked up yet (even though it is doing a great job of filling the third hole). To be honest, I haven't gotten very far with the EMS install. After the turbo upgrade, I find myself with an inferior clutch setup and have decided to tackle that first. I am mainly sitting in this sub-forum to learn more about the various things I will run into once I attempt to tune the EMS. The only thing I dislike about the serial gauge (thus far) is that it has to be disconnected to tune the EMS. Seems like a pain if the EMS is tucked up under the dash. Seems like the better idea would be to just connect the gauge to the end of the tuning cable. I also found a cheap serial A/B switch on eBay that I was thinking of trying (it is understood that cheap is often different from optimal).
I suppose that my point is this- if I had it to do over again, and knew that I'd be getting the EMS, I'd have bought the solenoid and 2 serial gauges. Or three serial gauges even. Here's a question for everyone else. (If anyone feels that it should be a new thread, please let me know.) "What are the advantages of having the EMS control boost over the TruBoost?" Ignition timing? I like the idea of being able to adjust boost on the fly (or at least having limited control between two settings). Can the two work in conjunction with one another?
I suppose that my point is this- if I had it to do over again, and knew that I'd be getting the EMS, I'd have bought the solenoid and 2 serial gauges. Or three serial gauges even. Here's a question for everyone else. (If anyone feels that it should be a new thread, please let me know.) "What are the advantages of having the EMS control boost over the TruBoost?" Ignition timing? I like the idea of being able to adjust boost on the fly (or at least having limited control between two settings). Can the two work in conjunction with one another?
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seems like a PITA to have to disconnect the serial gauge...
But I appreciate you sharing some helpful info thank you!!
But I appreciate you sharing some helpful info thank you!!
Maybe things have changed but i read through the "aem tuning" thread a few months ago and I remember it being suggested to just use a tru boost to avoid the hassle of the ems controlling boost.
turbo87targa;1516554 said:
That makes a lot of sense. Does anyone know if the EMS will adjust timing to compensate for boost? I know this sounds like an elementary question, and it seems to me that this would be an obvious advantage to having a standalone.
I'm not sure about IT adjusting boost to compensate, but I'm sure you can adjust the timing with the ems.
the serial gauge can show up to 19 different outputs. i have throttle, water temp, air temp, oil presure (not oem), boost, a/f, and soon oil temp and speed displayed in my serial. you rotatethru with the two buttons on the gauge. you do have to convert the raw output units into a formula for the gauge program. I have to read up on this every time i program it. the gauge will retain the high and lowest unit reached for each parameter. you can link them together too. each showing a different reading. the gauge is a little overpriced tho. should be $200 each instead of about $300.
fuel and timing have base maps based on rpm and boost readings so each are boost related. higher boost less timing on the timing map. you can have a high/low boost switch so 17 psi on pump and flick a switch and 24 or what ever boost target on hi. the fuel and timing maps work the same just uses a different boost number so different amount inputed off the maps.
i put a serial cable into the aem in the dash and ran it over to the drivers side. i plug in the serial gauge cord and use the gauge then when i tune i unplug it and hook up the computer to the serial extention cable. this way i dont go into the dash. i have a three pod and the 3rd input (get your heads out of the gutter) was empty for years till i put in a methanol injection controller that is progressive. i may could have used the aem but i dont know if i could have gotten the progressive spray to work with the aem. so its the serial then a/f gauge off the eugo then cooling mist controller. i would like another serial so i could see the a/f and any two other readiings.
i could not get the aem to run boost properly for 2 years. the boost reading was spiking up and down 3 to 6 psi under boost. i then found out that Map Filter needs to be 4 or 6 tooth setting. that way the map reads every 4th or 6th tooth for boost and is very stable reading. cant tune if psi is jumping around everywhere. after i set map filter to 6 teeth the boost reading in the aem was flat and i set up boost controll in 30 minutes. it is flatttttttt now. i run 20 psi on meth and flick the hi/lo switch and 25 psi. with aem controlling boost you can make it have speed varialble boost settings and a hi lo switch. also you can program if some readings go wrong the aem cuts boost or fuel etc. use the mac boost selonoid found below. i have not ordered from here but i assume it works.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/mac/mac-1.htm
i use one with the synapse 50mm wg and the wg is great.
i also wired in sequential injection and the 3 channel ignitor and the engine runs very good.
fuel and timing have base maps based on rpm and boost readings so each are boost related. higher boost less timing on the timing map. you can have a high/low boost switch so 17 psi on pump and flick a switch and 24 or what ever boost target on hi. the fuel and timing maps work the same just uses a different boost number so different amount inputed off the maps.
i put a serial cable into the aem in the dash and ran it over to the drivers side. i plug in the serial gauge cord and use the gauge then when i tune i unplug it and hook up the computer to the serial extention cable. this way i dont go into the dash. i have a three pod and the 3rd input (get your heads out of the gutter) was empty for years till i put in a methanol injection controller that is progressive. i may could have used the aem but i dont know if i could have gotten the progressive spray to work with the aem. so its the serial then a/f gauge off the eugo then cooling mist controller. i would like another serial so i could see the a/f and any two other readiings.
i could not get the aem to run boost properly for 2 years. the boost reading was spiking up and down 3 to 6 psi under boost. i then found out that Map Filter needs to be 4 or 6 tooth setting. that way the map reads every 4th or 6th tooth for boost and is very stable reading. cant tune if psi is jumping around everywhere. after i set map filter to 6 teeth the boost reading in the aem was flat and i set up boost controll in 30 minutes. it is flatttttttt now. i run 20 psi on meth and flick the hi/lo switch and 25 psi. with aem controlling boost you can make it have speed varialble boost settings and a hi lo switch. also you can program if some readings go wrong the aem cuts boost or fuel etc. use the mac boost selonoid found below. i have not ordered from here but i assume it works.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/mac/mac-1.htm
i use one with the synapse 50mm wg and the wg is great.
i also wired in sequential injection and the 3 channel ignitor and the engine runs very good.
