I used to use a 14mm nut and bolt welded together with a 14mm socket then bought a 14mm inhex socket!mkiiSupraMan18 said:
Advice needed on removing bad head bolt
- Thread starter SteveJ
- Start date
unless I can weld with a soldering iron and a butane torch... then yes
*edit*
I guess I could always just hook the negative side of the battery charger to the bolt and then hit the possitive side against the nut/threads.... hmmm..... 200 amp boost should do it, right?
*edit*
I guess I could always just hook the negative side of the battery charger to the bolt and then hit the possitive side against the nut/threads.... hmmm..... 200 amp boost should do it, right?
I would pull the cam out of that side, pack everything with shop towels and plastic garbage bag and then: Find a drill bit the size of the bolt shaft and drill the head off of it. Take a shop vac and suck up everything that you can. Then very carefully remove the rest of the shop towels and plastic bag to avoid pieces of metal falling out. Remove the cylinder head and take vice grips to the bolt shaft.
Warning: I take no responsibility if you try this, and I would only try it if everything else fails completly.
Warning: I take no responsibility if you try this, and I would only try it if everything else fails completly.
I've seen a couple people strip those stock head bolts, even with perfect tool to bolt contact. Anyway we did exactly like gixxer750 said with a large drill bit. Once the tension of the head bolt pressing the head to the block is gone you can unscrew whats left of it by hand.
On another website someone suggested Sock-It-Out tools. They are designed along the lines of IJ's suggestion with the 7/16" allen head key. I put some on order, and I'll let you guys know how it works out.
Steve
Steve
Use a bolt extractor it should fit over the head completely..Not sure if i used the correct term but it is basically an inverted extractor with teeth(swirly grooves) on the inside..It looks like a socket but works like an extractor....Snap-on or mac should have these.....Hope this helps i used one on my last stripped headbolt and it worked beautifully...........:naughty: :naughty: :aigo:
I have the Craftsman version of it. It's going to be my third attempt after a couple of other suggestions.bo3232000 said:
IJ. said:
Sorry IJ didnt think of that on the supra, i specialize on BMW's.....They have more room but a chance is worth a try.......I have also built multiple bpt's and they have the same style of bolt also.. New to the toyota scene but have lots of experience elsewhere...
bo3: It's really tight in there, when using ARP Studs and nuts you need a slimline 14mm socket so I don't think there would be room for the EXT.
Okay, here's an update. Based upon a suggestion from a person on another car forum, I purchased some Sock-It-Out tools. I selected the right size tool (12 mm) and tapped it in with a hammer, per the instructions. I placed a 13 mm socket on the tool and attached a breaker bar. The head bolt broke loose fairly easily. The Sock-It-Out tool couldn't have worked any better.
Steve
Steve
You're so right. When I heard the pop of the bolt breaking loose, I felt a lot of anxiety lifting off of me.supra90turbo said:
The important thing for me is to emphasis to others to take it SLOW on trying to loosen or tighten the head bolts and consider buying a set of Sock-It-Out tools if you think you're going to keep the stock head bolts.
That's okay. I'd rather wait for the right tool than force the issue with an improvised fix. Besides, the Supra isn't my daily driver.mkiiSupraMan18 said:
