Advice before starting... First time.

[Failure14]

WORD. Did you ever get oil pressure?? Because if you came on here to ask all these opinions on the best way to prep your engine, then just ran it with no oil pressure, I'm going to be pissed.

Well i did everything you guys said and with the EFI Fuse out i cranked it
a good 6 times and got no oil pressure....

My fuel pump wouldnt even come on, i took out my FPR and it was bone
dry but once i put my efi fuse back in i made sure i didnt tighten the
FPR all the way and right when i cranked it fuel squirted out? so idk but
it worked.

But if you guys dont mind ive got another topic in the technical discussion about some issues
im having.

 

[arz]

I always wonder if people ever see or read this link. Its in Supracentrals SIG under Rod Knock. Slide down to "Commentary on rod knock after a Head Gasket swap"

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

I hope your good, but I have done a couple motors that were subject to VERY worn bearings after a BHG complete tear down and have heard and seen countless others. A BHG "IS" cause for pulling the motor out and replacing bearings in my opinion.

Im sorry but that's just my experience.

Good luck, sorry I didn't see this post sooner.

 

[Failure14]

I always wonder if people ever see or read this link. Its in Supracentrals SIG under Rod Knock. Slide down to "Commentary on rod knock after a Head Gasket swap"

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

I hope your good, but I have done a couple motors that were subject to VERY worn bearings after a BHG complete tear down and have heard and seen countless others. A BHG "IS" cause for pulling the motor out and replacing bearings in my opinion.

Im sorry but that's just my experience.

Good luck, sorry I didn't see this post sooner.

Your kidding me... wow...
Yea i just kinda figured that link was just to tell how to fix it.. so i never clicked on it...

So basicly a rod knock for me is inevitable?

If so this will probably be the last of my supra days....

 

[arz]

I'm not saying its inevitable, but its a pretty good chance. Keep an ear on it. If it gives ANY indication, STOP DRIVING IT IMMEDIATELY. You probably haven't done any damage yet. You MUST do the bearings, don't fret, its much easier than it sounds, below is a quick description of the FASTEST way to yank a complete motor and trans. You will get dirty and don't bother cleaning anything unless you have to (like the oil pan and block interface) It is a good idea to clean the whole oil pan its just easier that way.
1. disconnect the harness at the ECU push it through the fire wall, lay it on the motor.
2. Unbolt the driveshaft at the carrier bearing (mark it first). Use a bent up hangar to wrap through the u-joint and around the stickshift tower to keep the drive shaft in.
3. Unbolt the clutch slave,
4. Pull the stickshift,
5. Hang the power steering on the fender,
6. Unbolt the exhaust at the cross member,
7. Disconnect all the IC plumbing.
8. Drain and yank the radiator
9. Disconnect the hood struts to get it to open up farther.
10. Disconnect Throttle cable and Cruise Control cables.
11. Pull the motor and trans at the same time.

Rent a cherry picker, yank the motor keep it up high pull the oil pan (clean it inside and out) and swap all the bearings (less than $130).

replace the bearings (make sure your hands are clean for the whole job)
Rod bearings are easy.
Mains: remove each cap one at a time lube the new bearing put it on the crank rotate it around and rotate the new bearing into place and remove the old rotated out bearing. Install the opposite new one in the main cap and reinstall it. Now do this 6 more times. Make sure to do the Thrusts at the same time on #4 I think.

Now reverse steps 11-1. This is the quickest way I know to swap a MKIII motor.

Its not fun, but not worth getting rid of, You could do have it out, bearings installed, and set back in the car, in one day and Sunday take your time hooking it all back up. The whole thing done in one weekend.

Get a few qualified friends and show them a detailed list of the tasks and you could probably be done faster.

DONT GIVE UP!!!

 

[CajunKenny]

I'm not contradicting the above post here; but, I changed out rod bearings in my 87 without pulling the motor. I dropped the subframe down on to a couple of jack stands and this allowed enough room to pull the pan and change them out. It wasn't all that bad.

Pulling the motor isn't too bad either. Follow the above directions and do a little more research if you have to and you'll be able to handle it.

YOU CAN DOOOOO IT!!

 

[gtsfirefighter]

Your kidding me... wow...
Yea i just kinda figured that link was just to tell how to fix it.. so i never clicked on it...

So basicly a rod knock for me is inevitable?

If so this will probably be the last of my supra days....

If your oil has any sign of milkiness and you've been driving it, then rod knock is inevitable, but try not to be so discouraged.

My 91 blew the headgasket very slowly and I drove it a lot while it was in the process. Gases were escaping into the coolant system causing the coolant to slowly be pushed out through the reservoir bottle. I was lucky that my oil jackets stayed intact and no coolant contaminated my oil. I pulled the engine to replace the HG, some seals and all the hoses. 13k miles later and no rod knock (knocking on wood here though). I believe it would've happened already if it was going to. It usually doesn't take long for corrosiveness of the the coolant to eat away the bearing.

I agree with ARZ, you can do it. Just don't forget to disconnect the fuel line, oil cooler lines and speedo cable.

 

[arz]

I'm not contradicting the above post here; but, I changed out rod bearings in my 87 without pulling the motor. I dropped the subframe down on to a couple of jack stands and this allowed enough room to pull the pan and change them out. It wasn't all that bad.

Pulling the motor isn't too bad either. Follow the above directions and do a little more research if you have to and you'll be able to handle it.

YOU CAN DOOOOO IT!!

This will be the second time I have heard of someone claiming they did this. I saw one guy that used a 4x4 pieces of wood to support the motor with a come-a-long. I saw what he did but I looked into it a little and saw that you would need to unbolt the power steering rack, steering shaft, and wasn't sure if the struts needed to be unbolted or not or how hard it would be to line up the bolts through the frame rails when re-installing it.

I have a lift and everything an it looked like I might be unsuccessful so I went the conventional route, glad I did cause the motor DID need to come out in my case.

Can you provide a few details on how you did it? A short list like I posted above?

 

[Failure14]

I'm not saying its inevitable, but its a pretty good chance. Keep an ear on it. If it gives ANY indication, STOP DRIVING IT IMMEDIATELY. You probably haven't done any damage yet. You MUST do the bearings, don't fret, its much easier than it sounds, below is a quick description of the FASTEST way to yank a complete motor and trans. You will get dirty and don't bother cleaning anything unless you have to (like the oil pan and block interface) It is a good idea to clean the whole oil pan its just easier that way.
1. disconnect the harness at the ECU push it through the fire wall, lay it on the motor.
2. Unbolt the driveshaft at the carrier bearing (mark it first). Use a bent up hangar to wrap through the u-joint and around the stickshift tower to keep the drive shaft in.
3. Unbolt the clutch slave,
4. Pull the stickshift,
5. Hang the power steering on the fender,
6. Unbolt the exhaust at the cross member,
7. Disconnect all the IC plumbing.
8. Drain and yank the radiator
9. Disconnect the hood struts to get it to open up farther.
10. Disconnect Throttle cable and Cruise Control cables.
11. Pull the motor and trans at the same time.

Rent a cherry picker, yank the motor keep it up high pull the oil pan (clean it inside and out) and swap all the bearings (less than $130).

replace the bearings (make sure your hands are clean for the whole job)
Rod bearings are easy.
Mains: remove each cap one at a time lube the new bearing put it on the crank rotate it around and rotate the new bearing into place and remove the old rotated out bearing. Install the opposite new one in the main cap and reinstall it. Now do this 6 more times. Make sure to do the Thrusts at the same time on #4 I think.

Now reverse steps 11-1. This is the quickest way I know to swap a MKIII motor.

Its not fun, but not worth getting rid of, You could do have it out, bearings installed, and set back in the car, in one day and Sunday take your time hooking it all back up. The whole thing done in one weekend.

Get a few qualified friends and show them a detailed list of the tasks and you could probably be done faster.

DONT GIVE UP!!!

Ahh alright yea it doesnt seem that bad now that its actually listed out,
ive just never done a motor pull by myself and it seems scary.

But im definetly saving that list into my notepad just incase, i appreciate
you taking the time writing that out man.

Now i just gotta hope that it doesnt start knocking blehh...
I would try the hole no pull change bearings route he went but
it seems a little too hard for me lol.

Thanks guys a ton!!!!

 

[arz]

...But im definetly saving that list into my notepad just incase, i appreciate
you taking the time writing that out man...

...Thanks guys a ton!!!!

I appreciate that you acknowledged that it took me a few seconds, to do it.

That's the kind of post that gets you help in the future. Holler if you need details. I thought a bit more about a support to hold the motor up and drop the cross member and I might consider fabbing one up and renting it out if needed. I will probably have a need to have something like this in the future anyways.

+1 for you.