adding second oil cooler
- Thread starter supraguru05
- Start date
well here they are. now the way it goes is i have a canton racing adapter on my block. the outlet of this line goes to the filter mount where i have a low oil pressure warning light, the output of the filter housing goes into the input in my mocal thermostat. the thermostat has a outlet which goes to a tee fitting which goes to the top of each of the coolers. the bottom (outlet) of the coolers go into a tee fitting and this line then goes back to the thermostat. the final cooler oil leaves the thermostat and goes back into the adapter on the block.
i used mainly earls swivel seal fittings which i now hate. i also have on the car some summit fittings and some no names that i bought for a race shop. these fittings are not the cutter style that the earls swivel seal are and i like them alot better, no more swivel seal for me. when it was all said and done the car took ten quarts to fill. and now for the pictures.
shows the top tee fitting. note i no longer have a latch or anything on the hood since it was switched to hood pins last year.
better view of the top tee fitting. the thermostat is to the left and the black line emerging from the bottom is the outlet of the bottom tee fitting.
shows the thermostat
passenger side cooler outlets.
bottom tee fitting which blocks some of the radiator unfortunately.
filter houseing. the low oil pressure sender is on the other side and is hidden. this is mounted high for a future 6.5 inch tall canton filter.
passenger cooler
drivers cooler.
note this install is not 100% complete. most of the lines are clamped but their final positions are not finalized. overall im really dissapointed in myself for the way it turned out but at least the car runs again.
the reason toyota had inner fender liners. i thought i somehow broke my passenger side fender molding because after the last race it stuck out. took it off to find all these marbles in it.
i am about a day away from finishing a power steering cooler install.
jdub currently i use some kind of clear power steering fluid i think its valvoline synthetic power steering fluid. would you recommend switching to something else and if so how can i guarantee the system is completely flushed before switching. thanks
i used mainly earls swivel seal fittings which i now hate. i also have on the car some summit fittings and some no names that i bought for a race shop. these fittings are not the cutter style that the earls swivel seal are and i like them alot better, no more swivel seal for me. when it was all said and done the car took ten quarts to fill. and now for the pictures.
shows the top tee fitting. note i no longer have a latch or anything on the hood since it was switched to hood pins last year.
better view of the top tee fitting. the thermostat is to the left and the black line emerging from the bottom is the outlet of the bottom tee fitting.
shows the thermostat
passenger side cooler outlets.
bottom tee fitting which blocks some of the radiator unfortunately.
filter houseing. the low oil pressure sender is on the other side and is hidden. this is mounted high for a future 6.5 inch tall canton filter.
passenger cooler
drivers cooler.
note this install is not 100% complete. most of the lines are clamped but their final positions are not finalized. overall im really dissapointed in myself for the way it turned out but at least the car runs again.
the reason toyota had inner fender liners. i thought i somehow broke my passenger side fender molding because after the last race it stuck out. took it off to find all these marbles in it.
i am about a day away from finishing a power steering cooler install.
jdub currently i use some kind of clear power steering fluid i think its valvoline synthetic power steering fluid. would you recommend switching to something else and if so how can i guarantee the system is completely flushed before switching. thanks
Doesn't look too bad a job to me 
You want to use ATF (Dex III) in the PS system...Mobil 1 Synthetic is the best for this. Drain the reservoir and disconnect the return line. Extend it to a plastic pan or gallon container...start the car, turn the steering wheel back & forth, and add AFT to the reservoir until it it runs bright red into the pan. Hook everything back up and fill....run again, turning the steering wheel again to get the air out. Don't over fill and check again in a couple days.
Get a magafine in-line filter and install on the return line to the reservoir while you're at it. Magnafine is running a special on them too...regular price is $20 ea:
http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm
You want to use ATF (Dex III) in the PS system...Mobil 1 Synthetic is the best for this. Drain the reservoir and disconnect the return line. Extend it to a plastic pan or gallon container...start the car, turn the steering wheel back & forth, and add AFT to the reservoir until it it runs bright red into the pan. Hook everything back up and fill....run again, turning the steering wheel again to get the air out. Don't over fill and check again in a couple days.
Get a magafine in-line filter and install on the return line to the reservoir while you're at it. Magnafine is running a special on them too...regular price is $20 ea:
http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm
update:
power steering filter ordered
also the top most line in the system had a slight leak so today when i went to remake the line and i took it off all the oil had drained back into the pan. i plan to put a check valve in the return line on the adapter on the block. im going to check the local parker store to see what price they have on check valves if they are to expensive im going to order this.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=MOR-23875&N=700+-43887+115&autoview=sku
power steering filter ordered
also the top most line in the system had a slight leak so today when i went to remake the line and i took it off all the oil had drained back into the pan. i plan to put a check valve in the return line on the adapter on the block. im going to check the local parker store to see what price they have on check valves if they are to expensive im going to order this.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=MOR-23875&N=700+-43887+115&autoview=sku
Quick question... I recently installed my oil cooler and filter relocation and 2 of the lines have an "s" shape curve in them.. Is this harmful to oil flow? can this cause stress on the oil pump ? No mean to thread jack congrats on dual cooler setup..
Last edited:
Kool.. Im still at around 80 psi and it climbs a little WOT so i believe it should be ok... thank you much master of the oil systems =)
if your using AN line and hose ends if you bend the hose at to much of an angle by the hose end it is possible for the hose to start leaking as it starts to push out. with good fittings and hose this generally doesnt happen but pictures would be work a thousand words. i have seen a AN line push out over time on a formula car at school because the students didnt build the line properly and it was under to much stress but i doubt this would be a problem for you. it really has to be bent hard.
Ok Jdub i desperatly need your help.
I run the pure one filters which have anti drain back valves built in, however i did not have a check valve in the return to the block and i belive the coolers are siphoning back into the pan. i just pulled the motor out and to my suprise theres a ton of oil in the pan, i mean like almost touching the crank level of oil. so im putting a check valve in. heres a diagram of what my system looks like and my guess of where to put a check valve. i have no budget left for a accusump at this point but this check valve should fix the problem. here is the check valve i am looking at.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=MOR-23875&N=700+-126442+115&autoview=sku
and here is the diagram
my only concern is since the check valve open direction is the same direction im trying to prevent the flow from going once the motor is off means this has to be like a 1psi check valve or else it could close while the motor is at idle if the oil pressure drops that much. my car doesnt idle that low but im just worried. the check valve only has to resist the head pressure of the oil above the return which cant be more than 1 psi
I run the pure one filters which have anti drain back valves built in, however i did not have a check valve in the return to the block and i belive the coolers are siphoning back into the pan. i just pulled the motor out and to my suprise theres a ton of oil in the pan, i mean like almost touching the crank level of oil. so im putting a check valve in. heres a diagram of what my system looks like and my guess of where to put a check valve. i have no budget left for a accusump at this point but this check valve should fix the problem. here is the check valve i am looking at.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=MOR-23875&N=700+-126442+115&autoview=sku
and here is the diagram
my only concern is since the check valve open direction is the same direction im trying to prevent the flow from going once the motor is off means this has to be like a 1psi check valve or else it could close while the motor is at idle if the oil pressure drops that much. my car doesnt idle that low but im just worried. the check valve only has to resist the head pressure of the oil above the return which cant be more than 1 psi
No worries on 1 psi
This may still allow oil from the coolers to the block. On thing you may want to go is swap the top/bottom cooler T-fitting...make the top fitting the return to the block. That way all you will lose is part of the oil in the top return line. The coolers should remain full with gravity flow blocked by the filter.
I would still add the check valve in the location you picked.
BTW - How is this dual cooler set-up working keeping oil temps where they need to be?
This may still allow oil from the coolers to the block. On thing you may want to go is swap the top/bottom cooler T-fitting...make the top fitting the return to the block. That way all you will lose is part of the oil in the top return line. The coolers should remain full with gravity flow blocked by the filter.
I would still add the check valve in the location you picked.
BTW - How is this dual cooler set-up working keeping oil temps where they need to be?
jdub;1227178 said:No worries on 1 psi
This may still allow oil from the coolers to the block. On thing you may want to go is swap the top/bottom cooler T-fitting...make the top fitting the return to the block. That way all you will lose is part of the oil in the top return line. The coolers should remain full with gravity flow blocked by the filter.
I would still add the check valve in the location you picked.
BTW - How is this dual cooler set-up working keeping oil temps where they need to be?
thanks for the quick response im going to call moroso to verify the pressure that the check valve opens at. the top most tee fitting on the car is the return from the coolers already.
the car hasnt been run yet its to cold here in kentucky so i really wont know until the first race in april how the coolers work.
do you know if the spin on CM filters have anti drain back valves built in.
That's odd...if the return is on the top fitting, it should not drain the coolers to the block.
Yes, the CM filter has an anti-drain back valve, but no bypass valve.
Yes, the CM filter has an anti-drain back valve, but no bypass valve.
jdub;1227215 said:
well its the fact the there is a portion of the coolers/ line higher than the filter adapter on the block so it drains down, but you would think that it would have a hard time getting through the bearings to leak out. the car currently has a stp filter on it if that matters.
got a email back from moroso and this is what it says
The p/n 23875 will flow one way and then open the opposite way at 1 psi.
so this check valve is for use with a accusump which is not what i need. i think what im going to do is when the car comes back from the cage builder ill put the motor back in with no oil in it and fill from the top of the tee fitting and see if it drains back into the block. something else might be a problem here.
in the mean time im going to the local parker dealer to get a 1/2 npt 1psi check valve just in case.
just wanted to update this for anyone searching
the above moroso check valve works great, it has definitely fixed my oil drain back issues. it has a opening pressure of 1 psi and is much cheaper than a equivalent earls check valve. i recommend this check valve for anyone with a large oil cooler
the above moroso check valve works great, it has definitely fixed my oil drain back issues. it has a opening pressure of 1 psi and is much cheaper than a equivalent earls check valve. i recommend this check valve for anyone with a large oil cooler