Acis promblem from hell

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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86yota;1049649 said:
quick question to anyone logged in i connect the light to the connector to the rely box on the battery side right? then i time it off the crank right? not sure i have never used a timing light before iam going to a local shop and wanted have some sort of idea on how to use it. anything is helpful thanks.
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20
You have to jumper the terminals. The red goes to the +side of the battery and the black goes to ground. Then you will have the sensor wire that normally clips on the #1 plug wire, some times on the older lights you have to pull the plug wire and insert a probe and connect back to the plug.
 

86yota

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Feb 17, 2008
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upper darby ,PA
well we checked the timing and was off by 5 degrees it made a difference in the
way it runs..but it still if me the same problem when slowly accelerating at 4g's
it kinda stops and i still am forced to shift. torque is still lacking too.

iam going to look into what cuel said about the valve. i think this might have happened gotta at least check it.

"In order for the ACIS to cause the symptoms you're describing, the valve would have to be locked closed. There is a spring inside the intake that physically locks it open if the ACIS system malfunctions."
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Actually, I was trying to point out that, unless the spring broke, or was removed, there is no way for it(ACIS valve inside the intake) to lock closed. I had to physically tie it closed when I tested it. It would be locked open, and you would get the "surge" at around 3800 to 4k that everyone else describes, if you where having an ACIS issue.

For what you're describing, I'd probably suspect fuel pressure or flow issues.

For those with the surge: Check the vacuum lines under the intake. They're a pain to see, but you have a leak somewhere. It does make a difference ;)
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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OH! You even had me confused as to what you meant about the return spring...


OP, test the VAF (AFM) with the car's ignition on but the engine off check to see that you're getting an even and steady voltage scale from the VS line as you manually move the vane. It should start at around 4.8v - 4.9v when fully closed and drop steadily as you open the flap.

It wouldn't hurt to set up a meter and have someone ride with you and see what the Vf feedback is saying when the engine starts giving up.

The VAF IS a wear component... it's life is finite and they do need replacing periodically due to nothing more than wear. That's why I threw mine out. ;)
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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IJ.;1050294 said:
Wouldn't matter even if it did I seriously doubt it would cause the issues described.... ;)

If you're referring to the VAF, I'm disinclined to agree. At least in the case of acceleration. If the signal's coming across lower than it should due to wear and the ECU's running closed loop, you'll go rich as hell. Given that the VAF uses a wiper it doesn't necessarily degrade evenly.
 

86yota

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Feb 17, 2008
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upper darby ,PA
well instead of doing all the testing i just droped in a spare VAF that i had around and on my test drive it worked perfectly no more hesitation at 4000rpms runs right past it. i still kinda feel that my torque is low feels better but not 100% but ill have to figure that out some other day off. thanks for all the help.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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86yota;1050636 said:
well instead of doing all the testing i just droped in a spare VAF that i had around and on my test drive it worked perfectly no more hesitation at 4000rpms runs right past it. i still kinda feel that my torque is low feels better but not 100% but ill have to figure that out some other day off. thanks for all the help.

You can bump up your timing a few degrees as long as you use better grade fuel.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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AJ'S 88NA;1050708 said:
You can bump up your timing a few degrees as long as you use better grade fuel.

Personally, I'd refrain from running anything other than factory specs if you're not sure if the car is in good running order.

As for bumping the timing, a healthy 7M-GE can take a significant bump without upping the octane level.


86yota, what octane are you running anyway?
 

86yota

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Feb 17, 2008
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upper darby ,PA
CRE;1050719 said:
Personally, I'd refrain from running anything other than factory specs if you're not sure if the car is in good running or der.

As for bumping the timing, a healthy 7M-GE can take a significant bump without upping the octane level.


86yota, what octane are you running anyway?


usually 87 octane but once in awhile somthing a little higher gas here in pa has hit 4.25 thats just crazy. but u just bought a new fuel filter gods knows when the d-bag before changed it. i spend a few minutes trying to figure out where it is located i got two answers in the gas tank and on the engine ?
 

AJ'S 88NA

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86yota;1051010 said:
usually 87 octane but once in awhile somthing a little higher gas here in pa has hit 4.25 thats just crazy. but u just bought a new fuel filter gods knows when the d-bag before changed it. i spend a few minutes trying to figure out where it is located i got two answers in the gas tank and on the engine ?
If you're asking were the fuel filter is it's above the pumpkin on the outside of the tank.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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it's between the tank and the diff. Do a search for more details... it can be a real pain to replace.