^^^ That's good stuff too...basically the same formulation as GC for the European/International market.
Accusump + Oil Cooler...Who's done it & How?
- Thread starter dejacky
- Start date
The funny thing is, one of my friends ran GC in his LS1 and they called it "dyno oil." Showed gains, but they thought was that it wouldn't properly protect the engine.
Even on the hot ass days we had here this summer my oil pressures stayed about 10psi/1000RPM, while the Pennsoil Platinum I was running before would dip quite a bit when it got real hot out...
Even on the hot ass days we had here this summer my oil pressures stayed about 10psi/1000RPM, while the Pennsoil Platinum I was running before would dip quite a bit when it got real hot out...
jdub;1132404 said:You can also use an electric vs a manual valve on the Accusump that actuates (via a relay) when the ignition is on. This will allow you to use it as a pre-oiler...turn ignition on, wait 5-10 sec (oil is pushed into the engine), and start. No more "dry start"
This was how I had mine set up with my 7m
I decided to get rid of it when I swapped to 2j and dry sump. Just thought there's way too much stuff
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Hate to say search, but there are many threads, and photos of how it's done.
My personal setup is as follows.
The stock oil pump, made by Asin for Toyota, is ported and then machined for a AN10 fitting. (Stock is AN8.) The pump is shimmed with about 12mm worth of shims. You really should only use 10 mm of shim, or one 10mm nut works great on the bypass in the pump cover.
The pickup tube is plenty large enough. The pickup is slighlty too high stock, so bend it down, so the screen is barely off the bottem of the pan. The pan can be modified with an easy kick out on the pickup side, with a round baffle like the cast magnesium racing pan Toyota made years ago. (The pickup is closer to one side than the other, so you really only need to kick out one side.) I have not modifed my pan. I would however if I was building another 7M. (Easy mod, and I think it's worth it.)
Crossover tube is gone, replaced with AN10 sized hose and fittings from the pump to the block.
The block is tapped, and plugged, so the oil can not reach the oil filter casting. Instead, the block is tapped at the NA cooler port location, and a AN10 fitting is located there to allow all the oil out from the pump.
From that fitting, it goes to a full flow Canton filter that is mounted on the right apron. There is no bypass in this filter, it does not need one. It is a depth filter, and rated/claimed to trap particles down to 8 microns in size.
From the filter, it goes to a modified RX7 filter that has a thermostat built into it. The port sizes on the RX7 cooler are AN8, I drilled and tapped them for AN10 fittings to maintain the 1/2" ID from pump to block.
From the cooler, it goes back through a one way ball valve. This keeps any pressure from going back to the cooler if for any reason the pump pressure falls off. (If the pump pick up is uncovered for example.)
From the one way ball valve, it goes to a "T" fitting. One side feeds the block, the other is connected via AN10 hose to a 3 quart Accusump that is my subwoofer grille. There is an electric valve fitted, so it can be turned off, and on. As noted, when I start the car, I can use existing oil pressure in the sump to "Pre-Lube" the engine prior to turning it over. This also has a pressure switch, so if the pressure when it's "on" falls below a preset limit, the valve is open, and oil flows back into the motor at anytime the switch is "on."
Going into the engine, an AN10 fitting is directly fitted to the main galley. There are two external fittings off the galley. Both are AN4. One feeds the turbo, and the other feeds a bypass oil filter from Oil Guard. This filter is rated to 1 micron or better, and it is plumbed to the stock oil cooler port, dumping the very clean oil back into the pan.
Figure about 1500.00 for the above, not counting the cost of the oil pump, and custom machine work to make it all fit/screw into the 7M block.
The upside is that it makes the most of the stock oil system's abilities.
Few operating notes..
The oil cooler works great. On cold days, the side opposite of the thermostat stays pretty cool, while the side with the stat is too hot to touch.
When pre-lubed, the engine turns over very easy. You can hear and "feel" the difference when cranking the engine with, or without oil pressure floating the crankshaft first.
The oil system is really built for extended high speed running, or track use. It's serious overkill for the commute to work.
Then again, so are the brakes.. but that's another story. LOL
My personal setup is as follows.
The stock oil pump, made by Asin for Toyota, is ported and then machined for a AN10 fitting. (Stock is AN8.) The pump is shimmed with about 12mm worth of shims. You really should only use 10 mm of shim, or one 10mm nut works great on the bypass in the pump cover.
The pickup tube is plenty large enough. The pickup is slighlty too high stock, so bend it down, so the screen is barely off the bottem of the pan. The pan can be modified with an easy kick out on the pickup side, with a round baffle like the cast magnesium racing pan Toyota made years ago. (The pickup is closer to one side than the other, so you really only need to kick out one side.) I have not modifed my pan. I would however if I was building another 7M. (Easy mod, and I think it's worth it.)
Crossover tube is gone, replaced with AN10 sized hose and fittings from the pump to the block.
The block is tapped, and plugged, so the oil can not reach the oil filter casting. Instead, the block is tapped at the NA cooler port location, and a AN10 fitting is located there to allow all the oil out from the pump.
From that fitting, it goes to a full flow Canton filter that is mounted on the right apron. There is no bypass in this filter, it does not need one. It is a depth filter, and rated/claimed to trap particles down to 8 microns in size.
From the filter, it goes to a modified RX7 filter that has a thermostat built into it. The port sizes on the RX7 cooler are AN8, I drilled and tapped them for AN10 fittings to maintain the 1/2" ID from pump to block.
From the cooler, it goes back through a one way ball valve. This keeps any pressure from going back to the cooler if for any reason the pump pressure falls off. (If the pump pick up is uncovered for example.)
From the one way ball valve, it goes to a "T" fitting. One side feeds the block, the other is connected via AN10 hose to a 3 quart Accusump that is my subwoofer grille. There is an electric valve fitted, so it can be turned off, and on. As noted, when I start the car, I can use existing oil pressure in the sump to "Pre-Lube" the engine prior to turning it over. This also has a pressure switch, so if the pressure when it's "on" falls below a preset limit, the valve is open, and oil flows back into the motor at anytime the switch is "on."
Going into the engine, an AN10 fitting is directly fitted to the main galley. There are two external fittings off the galley. Both are AN4. One feeds the turbo, and the other feeds a bypass oil filter from Oil Guard. This filter is rated to 1 micron or better, and it is plumbed to the stock oil cooler port, dumping the very clean oil back into the pan.
Figure about 1500.00 for the above, not counting the cost of the oil pump, and custom machine work to make it all fit/screw into the 7M block.
The upside is that it makes the most of the stock oil system's abilities.
Few operating notes..
The oil cooler works great. On cold days, the side opposite of the thermostat stays pretty cool, while the side with the stat is too hot to touch.
When pre-lubed, the engine turns over very easy. You can hear and "feel" the difference when cranking the engine with, or without oil pressure floating the crankshaft first.
The oil system is really built for extended high speed running, or track use. It's serious overkill for the commute to work.
Then again, so are the brakes.. but that's another story.
LOL
Adjuster;1222271 said:
two questions
one which part number check valve are you using. earls makes a -10 check valve its around 80 dollars and moroso makes a 1/2 npt one for 25.
also does the canton filter have anti drain back. reason im asking is i have a dual oilcooler setup and need to put in a check valve so the coolers dont siphon into the pan. right now im running a standard pure one oil filter and no check valve on the supply to the block drilling. im going to add the check valve after the coolers and before the block and then replace the pureone filter with a spin on CM filter
bump for part #s...
So for installing an Accusump on an existing remote filter/thermostat-controled oil cooler setup, I need:
24-006 (Accusump 3QT reservoir) $222
24-271 (Accusump 20-25psi electric valve with switch) $186
24-280 (Accusump check valve) $27.60
24-200 (Accusump 4-1/4" mounting clamps) $20.40
and either my own -10 AN lines & T or the 24-800 Accusump universal install kit ($106)
Correct?
So for installing an Accusump on an existing remote filter/thermostat-controled oil cooler setup, I need:
24-006 (Accusump 3QT reservoir) $222
24-271 (Accusump 20-25psi electric valve with switch) $186
24-280 (Accusump check valve) $27.60
24-200 (Accusump 4-1/4" mounting clamps) $20.40
and either my own -10 AN lines & T or the 24-800 Accusump universal install kit ($106)
Correct?
Don't need a check valve if you use filters with antidrainback valves Jeff.
(most modern spinon filters)
(most modern spinon filters)
Correct me if I'm wrong, I seem to remember that the electric switch/valve is also a check valve? Or is that for a different purpose?
~Ron
~Ron
IJ.;1382844 said:
i have a bit of a exotic color layout and there is a significant volume of oil above the return section on the block therefore i needed a check valve to prevent drainback through the oil gallery in the block. the filter takes care of drainback the other direction.
i ended up using the check valve from moroso, it is a 1psi check so it can only hold back the head pressure from the oil system and opens as soon as the pump cranks.