Acceleration problems: this thread is only for the gifted

Aug 1, 2007
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Arizona
I am having a really bad time figuring this one out - the resolution to the problem will not be found easily over the internet - however, I have no other options. There have been far too many people that have guessed at this or that and I've put close to $900 in parts alone, at cost, into this freakin' problem.

Be forewarned, this baby is not for the weak - it is for the truly gifted Supra insaniacs that know more then probably the very engineers that created the beast...

First, a little background - this is an 87 Turbo w/automatic and 75,000 miles, all stock, never raced and the VERY best maintenance record known to mankind ... or ... suprakind. It is not driven hard but I've had "fun" with it over the years. It is not throwing any codes, all vacuum lines, by site, have been checked and rechecked, there are no leaks whether liquid or air anywhere in any line that we can find with our eyes or squirt bottle with liquid soap... the tranny fluid is fresh, the tranny works perfectly, and through this process of trying to find a solution, gave the Supra a full tune-up with fresh plugs - everything with respect to operation and maintenance is perfect, everything works as if it should from the factory...

Okay, let's do this - here's the problem - a two part problem that MIGHT be related, you tell me...

I will begin with what the car is doing and then tell you what we did to address the issue without solution...

During normal acceleration, the throttle is smooth as silk. If I punch it, something is happening whereby activating a resistance in the throttle. Resistance? Yes, after punching it, something happens and causes the throttle to become VERY difficult to push down all the way. At about 3/4 of the way to the floor from full up, the resistance becomes so great that I have to "force" with great pressure, the pedal all the way down. As soon as I do so, the tranny generally and immediately kicks down a gear, boost builds up and I'm on my way quickly.

If I drive it without quickly mashing the pedal, this phenomenon never takes place...

I have found that if I place the car in neutral, allow the rpm to drop to idle, essentially disconnecting the tranny from the engine, then blip the throttle a few times, it goes back to normal operation UNTIL I mash it again and instantly the phenomenon starts up again.

What have I done to this point to find a solution?
* ensured the carpet is not in the way of the throttle pedal assembly
* checked the linkage
* replaced the linkage
* rechecked the linkage
* removed plenum
* inspected "butterfly valve" and complete throttle assembly
* checked freeplay
* removed and replaced cruise control
* replaced exhaust for fear of some weird back-pressure gremlin (part of the cat had come apart and was floating around in there)
* replaced TPS
* R*R tranny fluid and filter with complete torque converter drain and fill
* inspected tranny fluid carefully and had it paper filtered looking for anything that might be wrong inside the tranny.

THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS...

The last thing I think it might be???

Well, having had three certified Toyota techs, two tranny shops, two automotive ASE techs, myself spending untold hours researching this problem on the forums and finally downloading the classroom texts used to teach tranny techs and Toyota techs about the Aisen A340E, or 30-40LE, transmission - I think it just might be the mechanism that the kickdown/line pressure cable operates. Oh yeah, I also replaced the kick down cable.

Remember, having the techs review this problem doesn't mean they are goobers, they were all young and some maybe born the same year my Supra was... Their exposure to this tranny is not uncommon as it is used is many many cars and trucks out there - both foreign and domestic. Some are altered a little for AWD, 4x4, FWD, performance (MKIV) et al... the A340E is a popular and VERY reliable tranny, if taken care of.

Why do I think that is my only hope Obe Wahn? Because I think there might be some type of burr inside the valve body - or more specifically, inside the cylinder of which the "plunger" or "kick down mechanism" resides and it is catching during hard acceleration. OR... maybe it is loose? It only take a few thousanths of an inch inside those tight tolerances to knock it out of whack...

Whoa, not done yet... it does one other thing that is odd. The revs, on decel while letting the car slow from 55 to 45, oscillates from 1500 to 2200 rpm and causes the car to sort of lurch - or opposite of lurch, the breaking horsepower is greater and then not as great so it sort of coasts and slows and coasts and slows. I also experienced this twice when I started the car, therefore, I thought TPS... replaced it with a new one (the old one tested bad) and though the oscillation at idle is gone, it still does so when either slowing with foot off the throttle from 55 to 45 OR when my foot is barely, ever so lighting touching the throttle while trying to maintain 45mph - again, this happens with or without cruise control connected. This is annoying because much of my driving on the city streets is focused at that speed...

There you have it - if there are other venues I've not looked at OR if you think something I've already done could be redone another way. Please, I am groveling here, let me know. Show forth thine wisdom and let me once again live in peace and harmony with my MKIII...

Seriously, if someone could give me help, that would be just way too cool.

Dez
 

HommerSimpson

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Dec 31, 2007
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• THROTTLE PRESSURE
Throttle pressure is always kept in accordance with the opening angle of the engine throttle valve.
This throttle pressure acts on the primary regulator valve and, accordingly, line pressure is regulated
in response to the throttle valve opening.
In the fully hydraulic controlled automatic transmission, throttle pressure is used for regulating Iine
• Pressure and as signal pressure for up–shift and down–shift of the transmission. In the electronic
• controlled transmission, however, throttle pressure is used only for regulating line pressure. Conse
quently, improper adjustment of the transmission throttle cable may result in a line pressure that is
too high or too low. This, in turn, will lead to shifting shock or clutch and brake slippage.


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/14operatio.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans.html
 

HommerSimpson

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Dec 31, 2007
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GrimJack;1014386 said:
I hate to suggest something simple, but... have you tried disconnecting the kickdown cable?

LOL well ofcourse his problem go away then... thats the ONLY thing i can think of that would cause hi problem.. but Personaly IMHO i think he just needs to get a used tranny and put in...
something took a shit inside ....
 

starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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GrimJack;1014386 said:
I hate to suggest something simple, but... have you tried disconnecting the kickdown cable?

I'm no automagic expert by any means, but I thought the same thing as well after reading this VERY well put together thread. ;)
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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the kickdown cable controls the shift selenoids. i assume they are electronic but you know where the road ends at least if its not the cable itself
 

Keros

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Mar 16, 2007
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HommerSimpson;1014391 said:
LOL well ofcourse his problem go away then... thats the ONLY thing i can think of that would cause hi problem.. but Personaly IMHO i think he just needs to get a used tranny and put in...
something took a shit inside ....

If his problem is just requiring a new transmission, I have an A340E that he can have for free. If it really solves his problem I'll even pitch for part of the shipping.

But that seems as though we're replacing the horse instead of fixing his shoe...
 

sneakypete

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Jul 18, 2007
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dezthumper;1014341 said:
Whoa, not done yet... it does one other thing that is odd. The revs, on decel while letting the car slow from 55 to 45, oscillates from 1500 to 2200 rpm and causes the car to sort of lurch - or opposite of lurch, the breaking horsepower is greater and then not as great so it sort of coasts and slows and coasts and slows. I also experienced this twice when I started the car, therefore, I thought TPS... replaced it with a new one (the old one tested bad) and though the oscillation at idle is gone, it still does so when either slowing with foot off the throttle from 55 to 45 OR when my foot is barely, ever so lighting touching the throttle while trying to maintain 45mph - again, this happens with or without cruise control connected. This is annoying because much of my driving on the city streets is focused at that speed...
Dez

my mother had the same problem on her car.... i couldnt figure it out for the lift of me, nor could any subaru tech. luckily it was still under warrenty. they ended up replacing the transmission. nothing changed. it turned out it was the computer.... whatever controls the auto trans.
thats why i hate autos
i recommend swapping to a 5speed
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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If you checked the things you said, then something has been overlooked.

- it is for the truly gifted Supra insaniacs that know more then probably the very engineers that created the beast...

Doesn't exist...well only in their minds.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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I tend to agree with Nick here...take a good look at the linkage cluster on top of the passenger side cam cover. The linkage arm holes have a tendency to oblong and get loose...really easy to jam against each other. Get a helper to push the pedal to the floor a few times while you look at it.
 

HommerSimpson

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jdub;1014925 said:
I tend to agree with Nick here...take a good look at the linkage cluster on top of the passenger side cam cover. The linkage arm holes have a tendency to oblong and get loose...really easy to jam against each other. Get a helper to push the pedal to the floor a few times while you look at it.

as why i asked for pictures
 
Aug 1, 2007
21
0
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Arizona
jdub;1014925 said:
...take a good look at the linkage cluster on top of the passenger side cam cover. The linkage arm holes have a tendency to oblong and get loose...really easy to jam against each other. Get a helper to push the pedal to the floor a few times while you look at it.

We did this and double checked the freeplay measurements against the Toyota shop manual.

johnathan1;1014977 said:
Have you tried lubricating your throttle body...and made sure it isn't binding at all?

Have you replaced the main throttle cable?

Yes, not only lubricated but replaced the cables.


ATL88Supra;1015383 said:
I am gonna jump off a bridge here and say cruise control actuator

only sense its the only cable that has not been suggested.

We disconnected the cable that goes to the cruise control and tested, still happened.


Keros;1014504 said:
If his problem is just requiring a new transmission, I have an A340E that he can have for free. If it really solves his problem I'll even pitch for part of the shipping.

But that seems as though we're replacing the horse instead of fixing his shoe...

I am not sure how much more instense it would be to remove the whole tranny - but my first attempt lies with the valve body. The tranny shifts perfectly and the ECT works well in both power and normal mode and the OD overide also works. Everything I can think of, other than whatever the heck this pressue it, has been checked and there are no codes whatsoever...

I ordered a valve body from Tranzparts.com $49 w/shipping and they didn't include the kickdown mechanism/plunger/valve - whatever it is called. That was six weeks ago. I've been waiting patiently for them to send me another one, this time one that is complete. But I am growing very impatient waiting for this. There are trannies sitting in junk yards, on Craigslist, on eBay et al costing anywhere from free to $1800 for a reman. However, I really hope and am keeping my fingers crossed that there is a burr or something getting hung up in that kickdown orifice...

PLEASE NOTE:
I thought of this on my in to work this morning with access to about 5/8ths of my throttle as cars are whizzin by me... at any time the car's transmission is not engaged, the throttle, 100% of the time, moves freely. Zero grab, zero friction. Whether the car is on or off, in park or in neutral, it operates freely. It ONLY happens JUST after the first time I mash it OR sometimes, like this morning, just after getting onto the freeway. There have been a few times whereby I actually feel the throttle, BEFORE it goes into weird phenomenon mode, press back up against my foot and viola, its in that weird ars mode again. I kept thinking it had to do with some pressure irregularity somewhere in the tranny or turbo or intake. The intake operates freely, the turbo and all associated lines (both mechanical and air) all operate perfectly.

When I say many man-hours, I mean many man-hours have been placed into this.

No, I have not removed the kick down cable - that is an idea - if I remove that, and cannot get the phenomenom to take place, I guess that would certainly force the focal point towards the valve body plunger... for the record, this little kick down pressure actuator is called a what???!!! I keep referring to it as a plunger et al.... does anyone know exactly what this mechanism is called? Not even the A340E training books call it something specific...
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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It's a "line pressure up" cable...the A340 tranny does not have a kick down cable ;)

It will drive fine with out it connected...harsher shift perhaps, but you will not damage the tranny. Disconnect the cable (note where the stop nuts are positioned) and take it for a spin. You might want to try the same thing with the cruise control cable.