I'm running R12, I live in Florida and I can tell you it works great. I find great pleasure in having passengers tell me to "Please turn up the air, I'm freezing" in a 20 year old car. Priceless.
AC going back in, need input on flush
- Thread starter grimreaper
- Start date
Poodles;1292500 said:
search craigslist, few people trying to off load cans for $15 bucks a pop, id bring a scale to measure each can though...
Can any of you guys get some good pics of the ac lines from the firewall down along the passenger fender? Then how they cross under the car on the front to the condenser/dryer and back to the compressor on the driver side as well...
yep, were the two lines (running along the exhaust side from firewall) go under the front support to behind the bumper and those connections at the condenser. Then where the lines come under the driver side from the compressor to the condenser.
jetjock;1293301 said:
way to pop a youngn's bubble!
3 pounds for $60= decent price considering local prices (ebay has them for $30 a can unless you win a bid). Shop quotes $60 a lb... i know how much freon to use (1.35-1.65 lbs per underhood sticker) but how much oil do i add for a completely dry system? Im having a hard time finding this amount out...
It's a decent price, just that over the years they went from 16 to 14 to 12 oz. Hassle to use too. I'll stick with my 30 pounders and a heated charging cylinder
Normally with those little cans I charge with liquid but better you charge with vapor. All the oil you need is what's in the compressor. If new or rebuilt it should already have the right amount. If dry add 100 to 120 cc (about 3.5 to 4 fluid oz). Afterwards turn the shaft by hand a few times to spread it around...
Normally with those little cans I charge with liquid but better you charge with vapor. All the oil you need is what's in the compressor. If new or rebuilt it should already have the right amount. If dry add 100 to 120 cc (about 3.5 to 4 fluid oz). Afterwards turn the shaft by hand a few times to spread it around...
It has oil in it(added by rebuild company), however the box says to add the oil required for r-12 OR r-134a, making me think i should dump the oil out and use the qt of mineral oil i have to add what is required... napa online says 7 oz. Not trying to undermine you JJ. Would you run with what its got or dump it out and add X amount of mineral oil?
keep in mind this is a new dryer, completly flushed evap and condenser and new expansion vavle....
keep in mind this is a new dryer, completly flushed evap and condenser and new expansion vavle....
Hmmm. Flush it: drain what's in there, add an ounce or two of mineral oil, turn the shaft a few times and again drain. Then add the full charge. My TSRM says 80cc +/- 20 for a compressor overhaul. My other AC books (and what I can find online) specify 3.5 oz for total system capacity up to 1990. For 1990 and after they spec 4 oz. That makes sense because the refrigerant charge in the car is (generally speaking) small compared to most systems of the time. I used 4 oz in mine and it's been OK for years. Still, you may want to ask over at aircondition.com. One of the pros there will have a concrete answer...
Does anyone know how much oil would be suspended in the evaporator and condenser? I currently have Ester oil in my system with my R134A which to my knowledge is compatible with both refrigerants. I took my car to a toyota dealership to help me diagnose what was wrong with it, and he pulled a vacuum on it and recharged it, but when recharging added some more oil into the system because he insisted when pulling a vacuum it also pulls some oil out. But the oil they had in the machine was PAG.
Basically i want to convert back to r12, but taking out the lines and the compressor are a lot of work. I want to take out the condenser and evaporator and flush those out, but leave the lines, compressor, and receiver dryer in(it is basically brand new). My question is do i need to flush every component? Will any left over PAG oil affect the r12 or will it not bother it? I have very little money, so doing a full flush is not an option (Also dont have a garage, i live in an apartment so all work on cars is prohibited, but i can do a little in the night without anyone saying anything). The AZ summer is coming and im not happy with how the r134a is working and want to convert back. Thanks for any help.
Basically i want to convert back to r12, but taking out the lines and the compressor are a lot of work. I want to take out the condenser and evaporator and flush those out, but leave the lines, compressor, and receiver dryer in(it is basically brand new). My question is do i need to flush every component? Will any left over PAG oil affect the r12 or will it not bother it? I have very little money, so doing a full flush is not an option (Also dont have a garage, i live in an apartment so all work on cars is prohibited, but i can do a little in the night without anyone saying anything). The AZ summer is coming and im not happy with how the r134a is working and want to convert back. Thanks for any help.
Ok, that makes sense, didn't really think about that. Upon more searching and seeking professional help it seems my txv is the wrong one and installed improperly (not my fault!:X). Apparently it is pressure sensing and the way mine is oriented it is sensing pressure on the wrong side and holding the valve at minimum flow.
Anyways, my question: Are OEM TXV's safe for R12 and R134A? Or what TXV do i need to use for R134A?
Anyways, my question: Are OEM TXV's safe for R12 and R134A? Or what TXV do i need to use for R134A?
Does someone have the dimensions of the stock 89+ condensor? I saw a couple of pics, but would like to have something exact, so that I can find a suitable universal one to replace it.
Pics from multiple angles would be great, so that I can see the orientation of the ports.
Pics from multiple angles would be great, so that I can see the orientation of the ports.
WhtMA71
I have to ask,
what is your cooling system like and particularly the fan setup....
reason is, if you are using crap electrical fans. That sounds exactly like the issue that I have seen when people run A/C and electrical fans that don't pull enough air in a hot day. It cools but as the pressure rises, it trips the high pressure switch which shuts the party down until the pressure levels are back to normal.
I have to ask,
what is your cooling system like and particularly the fan setup....
reason is, if you are using crap electrical fans. That sounds exactly like the issue that I have seen when people run A/C and electrical fans that don't pull enough air in a hot day. It cools but as the pressure rises, it trips the high pressure switch which shuts the party down until the pressure levels are back to normal.
89 had a partial recall on the expansion valve that causes excessive pressures (will set of the pressure switch)
Yea I was actually wondering about that.. I called my local dealership when I first got my car to see if they had a recall for that. After giving them my VIN the guy said no recalls on it..
I wish I had a gauge manifold so I could check this stuff out.
I wish I had a gauge manifold so I could check this stuff out.