about 0.96 exhaust housings . too big for 7M?

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
what are your expertise advice for the best turbo for my application? have lots of support and standalone EMS, so its just the best choice of turbo now. searching leads me to looking on GT4067R

capable of atleast 600 hp with spool at 3700-4000. GT4067R ? PT67 ? SP63 ?

thanks everyone for all of your replies here, much appreciated
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
0
0
indiucky
supramaze said:
what are your expertise advice for the best turbo for my application? have lots of support and standalone EMS, so its just the best choice of turbo now. searching leads me to looking on GT4067R

capable of atleast 600 hp with spool at 3700-4000. GT4067R ? PT67 ? SP63 ?

thanks everyone for all of your replies here, much appreciated

pt67 ball bearing. it will do mid 500rw on pump gas, mid 600rw on full boost quite easily. spool will depend on the rest of the setup, but w/ a smaller a/r and bb, it should be able to hit full boost right around 4000.
boostwerx has them on sale for $1139 currently :naughty:
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,234
37
48
Atlanta
This advice is kinda in the opposite direction, but... have you checked your catalytic converter lately??
Mine was losing boost slowly; I couldn't build over 9 psi, and it was taking forever to build(5000rpm). When I got my cat replaced on this hunch, I found that the core was 80% blocked. Boost came on like a frikken freight train after that.
This would also explain why your turbo won't spool at idle much; the exhaust has too much back pressure, meaning the exhaust gasses aren't moving as fast in the pre-cat(turbo) area.
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
supraguy@aol said:
This advice is kinda in the opposite direction, but... have you checked your catalytic converter lately??
Mine was losing boost slowly; I couldn't build over 9 psi, and it was taking forever to build(5000rpm). When I got my cat replaced on this hunch, I found that the core was 80% blocked. Boost came on like a frikken freight train after that.
This would also explain why your turbo won't spool at idle much; the exhaust has too much back pressure, meaning the exhaust gasses aren't moving as fast in the pre-cat(turbo) area.

thanks, I have just checked that out now. its a 3" SS custom built system from 3" vband to tip.
I have a metallic race catalytic, and when looking down in it I can see clearly right thru it. it doesnt appear to be restrictive in any way :(
last year i hit 22 psi easy with a smaller turbo, with stock ECU and a SAFC-II

now I have a MBE EMS system, along with the new turbo and the boost is long way from home :(:(

anyone like to share any ignition values thru PM , for comparison reasons? my AFR is around 11.5 which is a bit rich, but not stopping boost in any way
 
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hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
0
36
37
Richmond, VA
Once again.. going in a different direction.

Post your ignition map off your MBE EMS Standalone. Your ignition timing in vac. being too conservative will cause dreadfully flow boost response.

By adding a few degrees in vac. on a very conservative map gave me 600RPM sooner spool on a .68 housing.

Edit: NVM Saw that Jon mentioned this earlier.. but this must be addressed.
 

a_sesshoumaru

Suprita
Jan 7, 2007
455
0
0
El Salvador
I just bought one of these before you posted, are you using the stock exhaust manifold? you scared me already i am expecting mine soon. i thought supras would make it spool quickly
 

Doward

Banned
Jan 11, 2006
4,245
0
36
Alachua, FL
a_sesshoumaru: Can't bolt a standard T4 flanged turbo to the stock exhaust manifold, sorry :(

OP: You are running a standalone? I'd like to see your timing map. For 600rwhp, the .96 is too big. I'd run a .68 on the 3.0L 7M. As a matter of fact, for 600rwhp and good power band, I'd recommend the turbo I have (since it sounds like we have similar goals ;)) a PTE67 with a .68 hot side.

Go with the ball bearing, if you can spring for it!
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
hottscennessey said:
Once again.. going in a different direction.

Post your ignition map off your MBE EMS Standalone. Your ignition timing in vac. being too conservative will cause dreadfully flow boost response.

By adding a few degrees in vac. on a very conservative map gave me 600RPM sooner spool on a .68 housing.

Edit: NVM Saw that Jon mentioned this earlier.. but this must be addressed.
yeah no doubt , this must be adressed. I will send you a PM soon with links to screenshots of my timing maps. MBE EMS has dual map system with basetiming TPS vs RPM , and the boost correcting map MAP vs RPM. anyone with knowledge and a standalone that can comment my baseline is welcome.

thanks !
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
a_sesshoumaru said:
I just bought one of these before you posted, are you using the stock exhaust manifold? you scared me already i am expecting mine soon. i thought supras would make it spool quickly

like Doward said, stock manifold does not fit for T4 footprint turbos . i have a reinforced SS manifold, pressure tested indeed :)
 
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supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
Doward said:
a_sesshoumaru: Can't bolt a standard T4 flanged turbo to the stock exhaust manifold, sorry :(

OP: You are running a standalone? I'd like to see your timing map. For 600rwhp, the .96 is too big. I'd run a .68 on the 3.0L 7M. As a matter of fact, for 600rwhp and good power band, I'd recommend the turbo I have (since it sounds like we have similar goals ;)) a PTE67 with a .68 hot side.

Go with the ball bearing, if you can spring for it!


I will send you a PM soon with links to screenshots of my timing maps. MBE EMS has dual map system with basetiming TPS vs RPM , and the boost correcting map MAP vs RPM. looking forward to get comments from you
thank you very much

about 0.96 AR yes now that you are saying what I have suspected, I definately feels the need for another turbo, PTE67 BB I should have gotten that one from the start.
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
here is a overview pic of the engine bay today. Just did a compression check (a brand new set of ROSS forged was installed 3 weeks ago) and the numbers were perfect as expected. 160 psi across the board. plugs were in excellent condition and color.

engine.jpg
 

Doward

Banned
Jan 11, 2006
4,245
0
36
Alachua, FL
PM replied :D I'd add more timing (about 32-34 total) until around 3000rpm. About then, you should be starting to see some positive pressure. Back the timing to about 30 degrees around 4000-4200rpm, and you should start seeing your pressure really coming up. Ramp down timing accordingly.

Also, AFRs should be about 12.5:1 until you get to around 3-4psi, then start down toward 11.5:1 up to 15psi. Past 15psi on a good sized turbo, I like to drop 11.0-11.2, just to be safe.

YMMV.
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
0
0
indiucky
nice looking engine bay!

that fuel return line is massive. i cant see the feed, but looks like you are still using the stock fuel pulse damp?
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
dbsupra90 said:
nice looking engine bay!

that fuel return line is massive. i cant see the feed, but looks like you are still using the stock fuel pulse damp?


thanks

yeah its still there but I plan to remove it (if needed?!) whole fuelsystem is built to handle my goal at 600 rwhp. about the damper, is it really any good for anything or just a restriction. when I look at my datalogs with fuelpressure its very stable and holds up fuelpressure nice.
 

supramaze

wizard
Sep 29, 2006
29
0
0
Sweden
Doward said:
Add a bit of timing yet? Any word back?


it has been raining like crazy here in Sweden so i havent got the chance to test it yet. but i will go out and do this asap when the roads are dry again.

will report back when i know how it turned out

thanks :)