a little help please... no boost

[thesupragod]

heres a little back story.. bought a 1j mkiii, wiring is a nightmares and all, it ran great though. turbos started leaking/ burning oil so decided to go single.

everything is cool now with the exception of boost. the car will not boost.
it runs and idles great but when i get into boost(or where it should boost) it just breaks up really bad. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is timing related, but cant verify. I have a timing light with an inductive clamp, but as i recall that wont work on 1j c.o.p.

mod list:
1jz
china manifold
Masterpower T70 .68 hotside
tial 38mm wastegate
aeromotive fpr set to 36 lbs vac unpluged
ssqv bov
Generic FMIC
HKS spark plugs, preset gap, came with the engine look good.
all electronics stock



q1: how do i check timing with a timing light on cop?

Thanks for any input!

 

[tlo86]

how far does the rpm go when you rev in neutral?

 

[tissimo]

On the large connector to the ignitor theres a little flap you can open up. There will be a long wire in there (most of the time its green) pull it out and put your timing light onto that wire.

How much boost is the car running? I would turn the fuel pressure up to 45 w/ vac off and try again if its running less then 12 psi. You're probably running out of fuel I would assume.

 

[thesupragod]

Awesome! Thanks for the input guys, i really appreciate it!

The car will free rev until redline, and while driving as long as i dont press the gas pedal past 20 to 30 percent it will run up to redline no problem. Its just when i go full throttle at around 2800 or so (i assume thats where the boost will start coming on according to the flow maps) then it will start breaking up.

I am currently running no boost, however when the car stops acting like a whore, the wastegate spring is .6 bar, so around 8-9 lbs. I will be installing a boost controller as soon as she is up and running well.

Side note: There is no 02 sensor currently installed, not sure if that would effect anything in closed loop or not, my assumption was no, but i could be wrong...


Thanks!

 

[tissimo]

Your car will run like ass with no o2 sensor. With only a .6 bar spring you should be fine. I'd still turn the fuel pressure up to stock since you have no Idea what the A/Fs will be like and leaning it out without knowlege of where its at isn't very smart.

Change your plugs and gap them down to .025 or so and give it another run. When you have the coils out check them for hairline cracks as well. If they're cracked you can repair em by putting epoxy or nail polish on the cracks as well as slip some 1" heat shrink over them to seal it up.

 

[thesupragod]

Ive considered putting in new plugs, I will turn the FP up tomorrow as well. I have checked the coils out already, they are almost perfect, just a bit of discoloration but absolutely no cracks!

What brand and type (heat range) plugs should i use? Im ultimatly going to run about a bar or so, after the boost controller of course.

Ill also be reinstalling the o2 sensor as well.

Ill post the outcome!

 

[Frankenstien]

NGK 6097 plugs

 

[thesupragod]

Thanks Frank!

 

[thesupragod]

Update: I upped the fuel pressure, hooked up the stock o2 sensor (just placed it in the threaded hole in the dp) and ordered NGK's

The fuel pressure is now at 45lbs with vac off, at idle running ~31psi.
The Timing is ~15' and im not sure how to adjust it, or if i even can. (timing process: Warm up car to operating temp, use long green wire on ignitor, light shot at around 15-17')

Ill install the new plugs tonight when they come in.

I am experiencing backfires when in neutral and hold the throttle at ~2400 rpm, constant back fires pop...pop...pop...pop.

When free reving the car, it will go up to the rev limit with ease, a few misfires but smoothly other than that.

After plugging in the o2 sensor and resetting the ecu, im still getting a cel code, not sure which one, havent checked.. The odd thing about it is that it flickers, it goes full bright when i rev the engine up but on decel it flickers dimmer, at idle no cel. WTF??

 

[thesupragod]

Update:

I changed out the spark plugs with ngk 6097 plugs, gapped to .025

Still rapid mis fires when holding around 2400 rpm.

Check engine light remained on, Timing results yielded ~17* when fully warmed up, not sure why.

Q1, How do i check the CEL on a 1j, Did some searching, nothing found. Tt and E1 jumper?

Thanks

 

[tissimo]

Checking the codes is the same as a 7m.

Sounds like you have wiring issues.

 

[*james*]

Update:

I changed out the spark plugs with ngk 6097 plugs, gapped to .025

Still rapid mis fires when holding around 2400 rpm.

Check engine light remained on, Timing results yielded ~17* when fully warmed up, not sure why.

Q1, How do i check the CEL on a 1j, Did some searching, nothing found. Tt and E1 jumper?

Thanks

I think the backfire is your timing might be off. What do you idle at? I think its supposed to be 6 or 700.. My timing was off and it was idling at 1000rpm and sometimes 1500 and it backfired. I'm not a technician but that's just what I've learned..

 

[thesupragod]

Cold start idles around 1100, after warming up, no more than 700.

 

[homeskillet305]

check your coil pack connectors, make sure the wires are pressed in all the way and the plactic is not broken.

 

[thesupragod]

UPDATE:

Ive done the CEL test, No dice. When jumping T and E1 (using the TSRM for reference) The check engine light doesnt blink or anything. The check engine light is on as soon as i start the car.

I checked the continuity between the TE1 and TE2 connectors between the DIAG and the ECU, the wires test good, and the E connector is a good ground. WTF?

 

[thesupragod]

ok, i found some info on the check engine light. it could be 4 things.

1. no power to ecu on pins +b and igsw. i have 12 volts here no problem.

2. no ground for the ecu on pin e1. i didnt have a ground, jumped it in the diag box to ground, no dice. nothing changed.

3. the engine light isnt working, ground pin w at ecu to check. when i ground pin w nothing happens, ign on or off.

the check engine light is not on with the key in the on position, but when i start the car it immediatly turns on.

I know this is a wiring issue but telling me that doesnt help, please give me some direction.

thanks!

 

[thesupragod]

Well, all the problems were resolved when i re timed the damn thing. Thanks for all the help guys! I really appreciate it!