I dont know what it could be. It doesnt idle right and it wont go above 1500rpms in any gear. before it started happening it ran completely fine. It will free rev all the way to red line, but on the way back down I get a huge black cloud out the back like it was running WAY rich.
A differnet TPS and car still wont run right.
- Thread starter NeoJester
- Start date
NeoJester said:
Did you repace it with a KNOWN good afm?
Otherwise get someone to drive his/her supra over to your house and swap the afm from that car in. That way you will know whether it's the afm or something else.
But my guess would also be boost leak. Most probably the lower IC hose near the turbo. Hard to see cracks in that place when mounted. The crack will prolly be 'closed' at idle/free rev and only open up under load.
^^^ correct.. usually there will be cracks in your accordian hose that you cant see, or a small hole..
many have seen large holes in theirs!
many have seen large holes in theirs!
I'll double check that hose. Also the afm I installed when i origanally put hte car togethar work perfectly and the only thing ive tryed so far is replacing the TPS. I know a guy that has a known good afm i could try if you think that could be the cause of the problem. I appreciate the input guys.
Please do ask for yet another afm. As the problem also may very well be something completely different, I've seen people swap 3 faulty afm's before getting a good one.
Did you already check your timing and spark plugs? My car would rev up to 6000rpm without load flawlessly, but hesitate bigtime under load and the cause was a faulty spark plug. (The ceramic part was cracked).
Did you already check your timing and spark plugs? My car would rev up to 6000rpm without load flawlessly, but hesitate bigtime under load and the cause was a faulty spark plug. (The ceramic part was cracked).
Bottom line, you can't shoot in the dark on this and expect to find the problem unless you get incredibly lucky (doesn't usually happen).
Start with the basics, fuel, spark, compression. Go over every system from beginning to end or end to begining (ex. spark plugs ok then to spark plug wires, next distributor cap, then rotor...etc). Otherwise you will go crazy, and it will take you much, much longer to figure it out. Voice of experience talking here. Shortcuts almost always are not shorter. Just trying to save you a little grief. Good luck.
Start with the basics, fuel, spark, compression. Go over every system from beginning to end or end to begining (ex. spark plugs ok then to spark plug wires, next distributor cap, then rotor...etc). Otherwise you will go crazy, and it will take you much, much longer to figure it out. Voice of experience talking here. Shortcuts almost always are not shorter. Just trying to save you a little grief. Good luck.
my car does the same thing, and we have narrowed it down to like three things, the cam positioning sensor, the throttle sensor, and the afm. are you sure that you have the tps lined up perfectly? and i have to go along with everyone else and say, get another afm, cause thats what we decided mine was, but im converting to maft pro. oh, and we replaced the cam positioning sensor. hope i gave a little help
It's not fuel cut (the TPS) if it revs freely. Besides, there are several ways to quickly check it. Using code 51 for example. For the curious here's another way: Free rev the engine to 2000 rpm. Drop rpm in steps of 100 while paying attention. It'll be obvious if IDL is working.