A Couple Questions

[87turbotarga]

I just got my supra about 3 weeks ago. I love it and im tryin to fix the small things that are wrong with it. My first question is there is a hissing sound coming from my intake ,amifold side of the engine. I think one of my hoses has an air leak. Is there any tips on how to find this air leak? Also I rewired my knock sensors with coax cable Im still getting a code 52 . and when i turn my car on the belt squeels really loud for the first ten seconds then stops completely. Im thinking the squeel is coming from my A/C because that isnt working. So could i just tak the A/C belt off and unbolt the A/C without consequence?

 

[hvyman]

Get some starting fluid spray and spray it around the intake gaskets and hoses with the engine idling and if the rpms change at all thats where the leak is.

Did you ground 1 side of the shielding on the knock sensor wiring?
Are your knock sensors good?

Your belts could be old and cracked or just loose.

 

[gottadiesel]

I concur with hvyman, just want to add a couple of thoughts:

Make sure you do not ground both sides of the shielding on purpose or by accident, as this will create an antenna for noise rather than draining it. Is the coax catv, cctv or rf radio type (copper braided shield or does it have alum foil with alum braided shielding etc...) And of course like hvyman stated, make sure they are good. I am not sure if the TRSM states how to bench test, but might check into that, though other searches I have done seem to point to wiring with a code 52, but this is 3rd party info so search the TRSM and see what you can find yourself or perhaps someone else can clarify.

I am with hyyman on the belts, if you have issues with compressor I would think it would last longer than the 1st 10 seconds. If it is just after you start, that is often the alternator belt, as it is at max charge (which means max friction) just after starting, as it is re-charging battery. I would check either tightness or for cracks/dry rotting etc...

 

[87turbotarga]

Its copper coax with copper center and copper sheilding. I grounded out the side where the sensors are to the negative side of the battery. i put new connectors on when i rewired them yesterday. the old connectors one was round and one was square. i put two new round ones on. I will try to find that air leak. But if i take the air compressor off and that belt will that help my horsepower? a lil less strain on the crank right?

 

[gottadiesel]

Its copper coax with copper center and copper sheilding. I grounded out the side where the sensors are to the negative side of the battery. i put new connectors on when i rewired them yesterday. the old connectors one was round and one was square. i put two new round ones on. I will try to find that air leak. But if i take the air compressor off and that belt will that help my horsepower? a lil less strain on the crank right?

One was square? Perhaps someone else can chime in here, not familiar with a square connector on a knock sensor. Are the sensors identical? How far did you replace the wiring? All the way to the ECU? The TRSM appears to ground the ECU end of the shield (not sensor), so if you only replaced a portion of the wire and you spliced the shield, then you may be grounded on both ends. All shield drains for devices connected to the ECU appear to drain to a B-R wire to grounded point B (block) Just more thoughts...

IMHO (fyi, these statements are assuming that you do not have any bearing issues on pulley or clutch - with belt off, ac pulley should move freely and quietly) Remove the A/C compressor if you are sure you will not want to add it back, the reason I say that, is that opens up the rest of the system to contamination. So either leave it if you want AC someday or remove as many associated parts with the A/C as you can to save room and weight. Personally I think the difference in power will not be felt by a human... quick and easy would be to just remove the belt and leave the compressor in place... just my $.02 perhaps those who have removed their may have better info...

 

[87turbotarga]

I replaced the whole wire. from the sensors to the ecu with two seperate wires. i think they are both the same sensors but the one that had a square connector when i put the round connector on it it didnt snap on it just s slid on so i can pull it off easily while the one that had the round connector already snapped on. it was a bitch gettin to the rear one i hade to remove the starter. so i hope the rear one isnt faulty.

 

[gottadiesel]

Hopefully someone else with more experience with the knock sensors will chime in, but if the back one needs to come off, I loosened mine 1/2 turn so that the release snap was towards the front and it slipped out without removing starter, as I did the same putting it back in, so that I could put starter on block before dropping in motor/tranny... anyway it worked for me.

 

[87turbotarga]

Ill see what i can come up with. thanks for all the help. also kinda of a random question my doors are stuck in the unlocked position? they wont lock manually or by the switch or even with the key in the door handle. like i push them forward and they just go back to unlocked without ever locking

 

[gottadiesel]

Here are a couple of threads that discuss how the knock sensor works, the theory of operation and some ways of testing them...


http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?96295-Knock-Sensor-Issues&p=1315799#post1315799

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?107129-Knock-threshold-voltage/page3&highlight=knock

As for doors, I would check to see if you are getting voltage on the pin for unlock, perhaps master door switch contacts are stuck... I do not have door handles anymore, so my switches and locks have been demo'd out...

 

[87turbotarga]

I fixed the air leak. it was a small hose that was snapped under the alternator. Im gonna buy a hose kit and redo all my hoses cause they arent in all that great shape. also my new knock sensor will get here tomorrow so hopefully i will fix that this weekend. Also i was wondering whenever i boost after i do i smell burning oil. and the last couple weeks my boost isnt hitting like it was when i first got the car. my boost gauge goes up to max boost like it was but its not pushing out as much power as it was before. could this be a boost leak?

 

[CajunKenny]

Regarding your power loss.....check your oil.

 

[87turbotarga]

I will do that i checked it last week it was good. ill change it tomorrow actually now that i think about it. thanks for reminding me