91 7m-gte motor versus any 2jz-gte motor

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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I am wanting to build a motor to put into my 91 mkIII, but I dont know if it would be a better option to stay with the 7m motor or if I should swap to a 2j. I am wanting to land somewhere between 450 and 500 horsepower at the wheels, but still keep the engine mild when not in boost because the car is my daily. What are some advantages and disadvantages to having one over the other? I have read that the 7m has some oiling problems and can spin bearings easily. Now that may be some pissed off guy that had those problems with his 7m, I dont know. For the people that have done the swap, or built a 7m, etc... what are your thoughts on the subject?
 

MNBmk3T

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Aug 2, 2011
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If you build the 7M right it's more than capable of handling 450-500 HP. But remember you HAVE to maintain the 7M and take care of it by doing little things like checking your oil every week and letting it cool down after a good drive. The biggest thing you can do is upgrade your oil system by getting a shimmed pump which will increase your oil pressures. I think DriftMotion sells these. But again, you HAVE to build the 7M right and spend the money getting proven parts like JE Pistons and Eagle Rods (many people dislike these but I've seen plenty of 1000HP builds that have lasted on these rods). You could get other ones if you want.
 

Dub537h

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Jun 17, 2012
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Dont say the magic 2jz word, people will crawl out of the woodwork to comment on that shit haha You would have to build that 7m pretty well to handle 500whp reliably for a daily.
 

91Supra313

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Jul 30, 2009
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Dub537h;1861366 said:
Dont say the magic 2jz word, people will crawl out of the woodwork to comment on that shit haha You would have to build that 7m pretty well to handle 500whp reliably for a daily.
I had a 500+ 7MGTE on a T70, and come to find out that not a damn thing inside was upgraded on the engine, and it was a DD for a bit. It is mainly on how you drive it. Yes you will HAVE to upgrade the internals. But as a daily driver, as long as he doesn't drive it like he stole it, which is how most of us drive these cars....and don't lie about it people, he will be fine. Of course there is the occasional run in, and that requires some good boosting....a few of those and yeah, your motor won't be too happy on stock guts.
 

kotu100

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Nov 23, 2006
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I went through this exact dilemma with my car, it was the final cost of things that made me decide on a built 7M.
For what it would cost me to swap in a 2jz i got a built 7m and AEM EMS.
If you have a lot of supporting mods for the 7m it might be worth it to keep that and build it, or get a built one.
If not, then maybe 2jz is the way to go for you. Either way you're gonna need $5k+
 

91Supra313

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kotu100;1861421 said:
Either way you're gonna need $5k+

How true that is. I did a quick tally on parts that are mandatory to do the swap and some that are recommended because of their age, and just in parts alone I came out around $3000. Then add a $2,000-$2,500 2JZGTE. I spend around 800 on misc crap, and said to hell with it. I gave up and started parting my car out. Glad I did, because now, I'm buying one from another member on here that already has the swap done, for the same price it would have cost me to do it. Plus side is, all the headache is already done, and I won't have to deal with it. I just have to tune the fuel a bit. Building a proper good HP, DD 7M is not that hard, but can be expensive. As long as you stick to reputable parts, you should be ok.
 

S.A. supra

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91Supra313;1861423 said:
How true that is. I did a quick tally on parts that are mandatory to do the swap and some that are recommended because of their age, and just in parts alone I came out around $3000. Then add a $2,000-$2,500 2JZGTE. I spend around 800 on misc crap, and said to hell with it. I gave up and started parting my car out. Glad I did, because now, I'm buying one from another member on here that already has the swap done, for the same price it would have cost me to do it. Plus side is, all the headache is already done, and I won't have to deal with it. I just have to tune the fuel a bit. Building a proper good HP, DD 7M is not that hard, but can be expensive. As long as you stick to reputable parts, you should be ok.

What you say is true, but when you build it your self you everything about it and find no surprises. I bought a 1jz swap from a member. The car was okay, but you find things here and there that you have to wonder why they did that????? I think I'm a 7k including the car. On my 2jzgte swap. And I have done just about everything on it. Cost could have been cheaper but I didn't want to cut corners.

If you are looking for 450hp I would just rebuild the engine with stock internals. Anything over forged. That's just my opinion.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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*Puts on Moderator hat*

If this thread turns into another engine bashing thread, it will be instantly locked.

Ok, with that out of the way, it comes down to a lot of things. Primarily budget. So long as your 7M motor isn't a boat anchor (i.e. annealed head, hole through block, etc) it will be cheaper to build the 7M. The issue boils down to supporting mods for both motors.

There's also a third option of going 2JZ-GE-T on 7M-GTE electronics.

Honestly there really isn't an easy answer to this. Depends a lot on which 2J you want to go with (JDM, USDM, GE, GTE...) and all the hassles to do the swap.
 

Smashey

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Dec 29, 2010
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after deciding to go with a 7m, do to budget. after ordering parts left and right for this im at like $3000 before shop fees as my engine builder is still waiting for the arias pistons i ordered. i think the only reason i didnt go 2j is being unfamiliar with it compared to the 7m. Having pulled the engine before know where everything goes, this way i could do it myself with ease and still be able to drive my car for the last while of summer. that being said im hoping to be driving my car mid/late august.

Also i havnt seen many dyno sheets of 2jz to compare but i keep seeing 7m's arround mid 400 hp with like 10% more ft/lbs of torque lol
 

lithium14

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Jan 7, 2011
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I decided to stick with my 7M, aaaaand I don't know the results yet because it is still WIP. But we don't have enough built 7Ms anymore, seems everyone is jumping on the JZ bandwagon, so personally, I hope you stay 7M and build it right. Like me!! haha
 

Smashey

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Dec 29, 2010
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Lithium, all the power to ya i hope your choice to keep the 7m works out for the best. also it seems to me everyone contemplates the swap due to ease, and the price being close enough to compare. ease meaning parts collection not a bunch of fabbing parts, and alot of support from others as there are a lot of swaps done. most of the people in my area are keeping the 7m and building them though, which im very greatful to see, help and be a part of.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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7m is a strong engine that being said invest in tuning and your engine (which ever you choose) will last much longer.

I have a 7M with a 60-1 @ 18psi daily driven all stock internals and felpro head gasket with a 155,000 miles still pulling strong.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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lithium14;1861451 said:
I decided to stick with my 7M, aaaaand I don't know the results yet because it is still WIP. But we don't have enough built 7Ms anymore, seems everyone is jumping on the JZ bandwagon, so personally, I hope you stay 7M and build it right. Like me!! haha

That is kind of my reasoning for staying with the 7M. I cant deny that the 2J is a great motor, but I haven't seen anything with a built 7M and not only could I spend the money for the 2J swap instead on machine work for the 7M, but it will just plug right back in in its home.
 

te72

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1. Do your maintenance. Any 7m out there is at least 20 years old now. JZ's are a bit younger, but still a good idea to do maintenance (anything rubber or a gasket, pumps, etc)
2. Do your headwork. Seriously, there is magic to be had with just a bit (or a lot) of port cleaning/polishing and shaping. ;)
3. Do NOT cut corners.
4. Read your TSRM when assembling.
5. Enjoy. :)