90-89 Heart Transplant/Build

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Well, I bought my first car in 2009 I believe, and that car was a 1990 Toyota Supra. 3E5 Super Red, N/A, 5 Speed. However, with 214k on the clock, and all of them driven in Nebraska winters, there was a lot of cancer. After repairing a lot of the rust on the car (minus the rusty rocker panel), I did a GTE swap. A mere two weeks after I finished the swap, I was involved in an accident with a PT Cruiser. I don't have any pictures on hand, but if anyone wants them, I could find them. It ends up with the frame slightly bent, and the infamous no rear bumper (Damn near everyone gave me shit on this!). With the rusty rocker, bent frame, huge dent in the quarter panel, 225k on the clock, bad paint, and an N/A non ABS non targa (I've always wanted to cruise with the roof out..) shell, I decided it would be very wise to move on. I wanted to keep my first car, but it wasn't a wise plan at this point.

After weeks on Craigslist, SM, and even eBay, I found several cars. With half of them falling through, and the other half being nearly as bad as my shell, I found a 1989 Turbo Targa, 3E5 auto shell. Everything was converted to manual, and it only had 105k on the clock. I found it in Colorado, but half of the miles were driven in Arizona, and only 50k miles were put on it over 10 years while it was in Colorado. Theres a very very slight bit of rust in the driver side rear wheel well, but I figured for $500, you couldn't go wrong. Also, the car used to have a 2JZ swap making 400 WHP. I have a dyno chart to prove it! E85 + AEM EMS + 2JZ must = 400 whp

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Also, there's a few upgrades done to the suspension on the 89. It has cross drilled and slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines, what looks like EBC bluestuff brake pads, bilstein shocks, and eibach springs. Easily 500 dollars right there....

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With the car home, I noticed that the black paint on the black half was NOT primer, and was actually Plasti-Dip. Peeling this stuff off was so easy and actually kind of fun.

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So with the passenger side stripped of all impostering plasti-dip, I decided to attack the driver side. The passenger side paint was PERFECT, but the driver side is not so good. The PO decided to start sanding down the paint for new paint.. Or something.. But irregardless of the reasoning, the driver side rear quarter panel needs paint. No big deal, a couple hundred bucks at a family friends body shop and I should be on my way.

With that done, I decided to tackle pulling the engine out of "Rusty". Within a few days, here's where it's at.

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At this time, I decided to see if I could increase my minimal oil pressure of roughly 4 psi. So I put the engine up on jackstands...

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And pull the oil pump and lap the mating surfaces between the pump and the cover. The cover was incredibly warped, and the pump was not bad. With clearances in spec, I put the pump back in.

Now we're getting up to date. Just Saturday I dropped the engine into the new car...

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Now I remounted my DM new style intercooler

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And started hooking up all the accessories. With the harness repaired, I decided to tackle the Alternator wiring.

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With that repaired, I was a little tired (It was 1 AM!) so I decided to see what was in the back seat. I folded the passenger seat forward, and found a genuine TRD shift knob on the floor!

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I now pulled the driver side fender (The paint didn't match anyhow...) to try to find the boost sensor and cruise control wiring. I fished it out of the fender, hooked up the cruise control actuator, and boost sensor, climbed into the cabin, and turned the key to find a working boost gauge and cruise control that at least stays on (It used to light up the dash light for a second and then turn off).

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So, now we're basically up to date. Today I was planning on starting it, but I ran into a little snag. I have everything hooked up, except for the fuel line. My dad removed the fuel line off of the old car, but there was a problem. I don't really know if the line on the 89 is aftermarket or what, but all I know is the fuel feed off of the old car does not fit the 89s fuel rail. So I'm going to take a union that screws onto the line on the 89, and the fuel soft line off the 90 up to Lincoln Clutch and Brake and see if they have an adapter for me. If not, I'll just have them make me a new line that fits the line on the 89.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Today SUCKED. I only got one thing done on the car, and that was hook up the fuel flex line to the fuel hard line. I didn't get it hooked up to the rail, otherwise my engine would be effing running.

I didn't get any pictures of the little adapter I had Lincoln Clutch and Brake make me, but that's because its quite boring. I did, however, get pictures of NEW SHINY THINGS!

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So, Driftmotion 3 inch widemouth downpipe, 17x1.5 ~ -6 adapter, 16 mm crush washer (fits better than the 17), a -6 ~ pushlock adapter, and nuts and bolts for the downpipe. Not a very big package, but fun none the less.

So back to the fuel line story. SOMEWHERE along the line, somebody misplaced the banjo bolt for the fuel feed flex line. So after getting very pissed off (more so than I should have...) I decided to drain the coolant from the block, because I'm switching from green to red. It's not Toyota red, but something along the lines of Valvoline G-01 rings a bell... But the coolant drain plug just will NOT bust loose. So after getting frustrated with that, I decided to try to hook up my power steering cooler.. And I didn't buy enough hose. :: angry :::: angry :::: angry ::

On a better note, I never did mention what else I found in the back seat........

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So now I have another choice to make.. My lovely midrange JVC headunit, or this lovely pioneer head unit. I have subs, so I would rather use RCAs, but using speaker level doesn't really bother me much.. Unless somebody can persuade me otherwise. The only thing that would bother me is if the Scion head unit doesn't output all frequencies. Like say it stops at 30hz. That would bug the ever living shit out of me. But, on the other hand.. It does output sound to all SIX speakers... Which is very, very nice. I'm honestly torn between both head units.

With the day kind of pitiful.. I decided to head down to the local bar and grill with my girlfriend and have a bite to eat and shoot some pool.. And I will end this post with this!

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-Backlash
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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I was hoping to have more interest in this thread than this, but oh well.

Anyway! Yesterday, I ordered the lost fuel banjo bolt from Toyota. Less than three hours after... My dad found the bolt. I called Toyota the next day and cancelled my order. And now.. I found another fuel banjo bolt. wtf...

So, I started off the day with mounting the factory oil cooler as my new power steering cooler. The front end is filling up very quickly! I'm pleased with how factory it looks, and how perfect it fits.

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I'm surprised at how many people complain about relocating things. It was very simple to heat up the coolant res and deform it a little bit to make room for the intercooler, and it just took a little bit of creativity to think of how to relocate the oil cooler.. I bolted it from behind the horn mount with a long bolt, and then bolted the horn to the part of the bolt protruding.. Simple really..

After that, I decided I would mount my DM downpipe. This was a true disappointment. I didn't think it was all that bad at first, and I called Aaron regarding the fitment, and he said the cat back will hold everything in the place it will need to be. So trusting him, I bolted it up. The gap between the dp and the turbo never closed completely.

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Wondering why, I crawled under the car, and this is what I saw.

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It's within a millimeter of hitting the bellhousing. While this wouldn't really be a big deal, as I could have just ground a little bit off the bellhousing, THIS is what is going to make me return this downpipe.

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The flex section hits the block hard enough that if I ground enough away, the bolt hole for the transmission would be far too weak. If you look closely, you can see the flex section actually deforming around the block. This is simply unacceptable. Hopefully it was a manufacturing defect and Aaron can send me a new one free of charge...
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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The bic widemouth looks like its the same as the driftmotion one.. except not polished and more expensive.

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yea the BIC is outrageously expensive but to make the ebay one (which looks identical to the one you got but mine was ddp not widemouth) I would have had to cut it off about 12" down from the flange and completely remake it, just wasnt worth it to me to spend all that time on it and still risk having a POS that would probably leak.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
I read that the turbo outlet flange tends to be deformed during the welding process, and it causes it to have gaps. The solution was to have it resurfaced.
I would expect that if you had the face of the flange resurfaced slightly, and so that it angled towards the outside edge(side facing the inner fender), that it
would also cause the entire DP to move away from the block. Should you have to do this? No, of course not. I would call to return it on DM's dime, and have
them ship you a new one, also on their dime, and let them know that if the next one doesn't fit right, it's going to cost DM another shipping fee to take it back,
so they MIGHT wanna verify it's fitment first...

And PS- people ARE interested in your thread.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Aaron said I could PROBABLY hollow out the bolt holes on the downpipe and shift it over a little bit.. but I'm thinking of just welding up the crack in the factory downpipe, and exchanging the DM one for one that fits. The only reason I'd bother with fixing the factory downpipe would be so I can drive my car..

On a side note.. I keep expecting to find surprises with the 89.. I mean come on.. that's what I was used to with the 90. But I never find anything but pleasant surprises.. like this.. it made me lol... This is on the cat heat shield. Just for reference lol

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My phone can't focus in low light situations.. that's why the under car pictures are ALWAYS blurry.

So after that.. I started to pull the molding off the 90. Guess what. Unpleasant surprise!! Someone glued the effing molding on... So I need the rear passenger quarter molding (says supra) and the passenger rear front fender molding. Well shit. I guess I might be able to pick up the clips and glue them on.

And with the build thread interest. I guess Ive always been wondering if people were interested. That's why my build threads flaked off in the past. I guess I always thought the content was mediocre lol

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jessemkiiis

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Sep 28, 2009
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Childersburg AL,
i think all of our cars either come with those wheels or saw blades lol
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have the exact same problem with my down pipe but never noticed untill the seals went out in my turbo(smoke).
plans are to send it with a friend who works at a machine shop to be resurfaced.
keep up the good work, I think we all have gone through the processes you are going through right now.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Haha nice dude! Ever think of painting them bronze? I think that'd look sweet on a white car.

It's not just the flange being warped, it's just the fact that the downpipe is hitting the transmission and that's not letting it bolt up completely.
 

jessemkiiis

New Member
Sep 28, 2009
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Childersburg AL,
Yeah mine wasn't quit that bad, I sold the wheels shortly after this, finally found a set of polished TT rims.
Bronze rims do look good on a white car though.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Well I tried flattening out the flange on the DP and it was the same fitment. I also elongated the bolt holes and yet again, nearly the same fitment. So I'll be having DM send me a new one on Monday. But for the time being... The problem:

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Even though my welds are quite possibly the worst welds in the world, they will seal better than the giant gaping crack. Feel free to laugh.

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It's only temporary, right? Haha

Anyway, I bolted up the downpipe and elbow and wired in my 5.0 Mustang O2 sensor, and this ensued.



I couldn't figure out how to rotate the video, so just bear with it, haha. No idea why it would stall at the end. It also would NOT start up afterwards. It just cranked and cranked. I'm gonna start looking at stuff today.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Problem!

So, when you first start the car, it seems to run great. Albeit a little sluggish on quick throttle blips. But my 7Ms have nearly always been like that when cold. Anyway, after a few minutes of running, the idle starts to come down.. And not like usually. It will drop down to 500-700 rpm and start loping like a big v8 with a huge cam. It actually sounds pretty sweet...

I thought it was timing, so I jumped Te1 and E1, and threw a timing light on it. While it's running smooth, its at a perfect 10* BTDC, but when it bogs out, timing jumps anywhere from 15-20* to 0*. Again, this is with Te1 and e1 jumpered. No codes stored on the ECU, fresh knock sensor wiring, and with an engine that used to run absolutely perfect, no matter what temperature it was being ran in. Also, when driving, it just doesn't seem as quick doing just minor pulls to about 3.5k rpm.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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I unhooked the CSI and no more loping or loss of power. Now I've been having far too much fun driving the damn thing hahaha. I think it gets better gas mileage than when it was in the 90.. but I dont really know as the speedo isn't hooked up.. lol

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Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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It never threw a code, and it definitely seems that way, although JJ doesn't seem to agree. But if it acts up again I'll eat my own words lol

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Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Well, I almost ate my words.. But I fixed it. Here's what happened.

I was driving and did a pull to ~100. Parked it, let it cool, and shut it down. Came back and drove it to get some food. Then I went back out to my car and it was miss firing on one cylinder. It cleared up with revs so I didn't think much of it. Drove it around for awhile, but it kept getting worse, so I bought a set of plugs for it. Swapped them in and then it was constantly miss firing on one cylinder. No amount of revs or throttle would clear it up. So I pulled plug wires until I found it was missing on the #1 cylinder. Pulled the plug and inspected it for damage. It was fine so I put a spare plug in the wire and grounded it, and fired up the engine. No spark. Ohmed out the wire, and no reading on the meter. So I put a spare plug wire on it, and still, no spark. So I pulled the plug wire off the coil to see if it would arc from the coil to the wire like it would on all the other wires. Nope! So I switched out that coil pack for a spare I had laying around and boom! No more miss fire.

Took it out for a test drive, but there was a train, so I turned around and nailed it. 1st gear was gone in no time at all, slipped it into second and with a roar from the 7M, it breaks the tires loose and leaves the rear end waving in the wind. With 2nd gear over, I throw it into third and pull the reigns on this 7M beast.. Turns out as I came back to that train a little later, the second car on the other side of the train was a County Sheriff... :aigo: